The Ford Barn

walkerlakeprinter · 07-24-2019, 02:10 PM

After reading many installation ideas on The Ford Barn, I combined a couple of them and am in process of installing my tank. I cut the webbing on the firewall to size and sprayed the underside with 3M spray adhesive. Then I placed the webbing on the firewall and used a propane torch to head a pin punch that would pass snugly through the holes. It took less than a minute to melt the holes in place.

Now I am working on the piece that goes under the window. I first put the tank in place to ascertain where it needs to be placed. I then cut notches where the bolts will fit.I have now sprayed the underside of the webbing and am letting it dry a bit before trying to slide the tank into place.

I can't think of any problems that might entail, but I will keep you informed.

walkerlakeprinter · 07-24-2019, 04:45 PM

It's too hot to work on my car with a black gas tank in the hot sun. Too hot for the 3M adhesive, and too hot for me to touch the metal. Try again tomorrow morning.

walkerlakeprinter · 07-25-2019, 08:51 AM

It's been pointed out to me that originally there was nothing installed on top of the firewall between it and the gas tank. When I took my old tank off, there were remnants of thin cloth there. How many of you put anything there? One suggestion was a thin layer of silicone to keep out the elements. Ideas?

walkerlakeprinter · 07-25-2019, 11:03 AM

In Les Andrew's red book, it says to lay 1/16x3/4 ant-squeak webbing on the firewall flange and along the side cowl flange where the tank sits (1928/1929). I tried that, but it made it so tight at the top of the tank that I could not fit the 3/16" bead welt in there.
Even with no webbing under the tank, it is really hard to get the welt in.

rotorwrench · 07-25-2019, 11:47 AM

There was a time when a person could get original type pyroxylin coated fabric welting. The thickness was just right for a good fit up. The anti squeak webbing Bratton's has is listed as 1/32". I'm not sure how thick the original stuff was but I've seen anti-squeak materials that were even thinner than 1/32" on later Fords. It has to be water resistant though so that it doesn't corrode between the panels.

100IH · 07-25-2019, 12:44 PM

Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements)

Thin cloth between components. Old version electrical tape, Cloth with adhesive, might be hard to find. If you do, get lots for later.

Russ/40 · 07-25-2019, 12:47 PM

I used the waxed fabric antisqueek that Brattons sells between the tank and lower cowl. It was very difficult to get the rolled bead between the upper rail and the tank top, especially at the two side extremes where the tank rolls downward. It's a tough task for sure.

Railcarmover · 07-25-2019, 03:51 PM

Use strip caulk,non hardening body sealer

walkerlakeprinter · 07-25-2019, 07:12 PM

Thanks, everyone! I have my gas tank installed (almost). Apologies to Frank Sinatra, I did it my way. I ended up using friction tape from Ace Hardware on top of the firewall underneath the tank. I cut all but about an eighth of an inch off the 3/16 welting, ran a small bead of black silicone along the gap and pressed the welting into the gap and into the silicone. Looks good. I still have enough welting to do it all over if this doesn't hang in there.

Now I have another problem! My old gas tank was smushed in on the passenger side sometime in the past, so I got a new tank. However, I discovered that the cowl panel also was dented slightly during the same event in the past. Now the holes on the passenger side are about 1/8" from being directly over each other. I will try banging on the cowl lip tomorrow to see if I can line them up better. If not, I will drill out the overhanging holes. In any case, the tank isn't going anywhere.

Dennis Pereira · 07-29-2019, 03:22 PM

I stapled some cloth strips to the welting and wiggled the tank back a little then fed the cloth through . Slow and careful a little prying some soap and water sprayed on . Keep silicone away you may have paint problems ? I painted the welting before I installed but that was so long ago I may need to repaint lol .

walkerlakeprinter · 07-29-2019, 03:30 PM

I know the silicone might not accept paint.....but my paint job is designed to look best from 30+ feet away. My car is destined to look like a 90 year old car that has survived all sorts of indignities over the years. I just want to get it back to running so I can hear that engine and hear how my horn sounds out here in the desert. I'm still trying to get used to burns from hot metal in the sun instead of cold and damp metal in Southeast Alaska.

07-24-2019, 02:10 PM	#1
walkerlakeprinter Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Walker Lake, Nevada Posts: 304	1929 Gas Tank webbing After reading many installation ideas on The Ford Barn, I combined a couple of them and am in process of installing my tank. I cut the webbing on the firewall to size and sprayed the underside with 3M spray adhesive. Then I placed the webbing on the firewall and used a propane torch to head a pin punch that would pass snugly through the holes. It took less than a minute to melt the holes in place. Now I am working on the piece that goes under the window. I first put the tank in place to ascertain where it needs to be placed. I then cut notches where the bolts will fit.I have now sprayed the underside of the webbing and am letting it dry a bit before trying to slide the tank into place. I can't think of any problems that might entail, but I will keep you informed.

07-24-2019, 04:45 PM	#2
walkerlakeprinter Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Walker Lake, Nevada Posts: 304	Re: 1929 Gas Tank webbing It's too hot to work on my car with a black gas tank in the hot sun. Too hot for the 3M adhesive, and too hot for me to touch the metal. Try again tomorrow morning.

07-25-2019, 08:51 AM	#3
walkerlakeprinter Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Walker Lake, Nevada Posts: 304	Re: 1929 Gas Tank webbing It's been pointed out to me that originally there was nothing installed on top of the firewall between it and the gas tank. When I took my old tank off, there were remnants of thin cloth there. How many of you put anything there? One suggestion was a thin layer of silicone to keep out the elements. Ideas?

07-25-2019, 11:03 AM	#4
walkerlakeprinter Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Walker Lake, Nevada Posts: 304	Re: 1929 Gas Tank webbing In Les Andrew's red book, it says to lay 1/16x3/4 ant-squeak webbing on the firewall flange and along the side cowl flange where the tank sits (1928/1929). I tried that, but it made it so tight at the top of the tank that I could not fit the 3/16" bead welt in there. Even with no webbing under the tank, it is really hard to get the welt in.

07-25-2019, 11:47 AM	#5
rotorwrench Senior Member Join Date: Jun 2010 Location: San Antonio, Texas Posts: 16,425	Re: 1929 Gas Tank webbing There was a time when a person could get original type pyroxylin coated fabric welting. The thickness was just right for a good fit up. The anti squeak webbing Bratton's has is listed as 1/32". I'm not sure how thick the original stuff was but I've seen anti-squeak materials that were even thinner than 1/32" on later Fords. It has to be water resistant though so that it doesn't corrode between the panels.

07-25-2019, 12:44 PM	#6
100IH Senior Member Join Date: Dec 2011 Location: SW Idaho Posts: 970	Re: 1929 Gas Tank webbing Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements) Thin cloth between components. Old version electrical tape, Cloth with adhesive, might be hard to find. If you do, get lots for later.

07-25-2019, 12:47 PM	#7
Russ/40 Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Santee, California Posts: 3,505	Re: 1929 Gas Tank webbing I used the waxed fabric antisqueek that Brattons sells between the tank and lower cowl. It was very difficult to get the rolled bead between the upper rail and the tank top, especially at the two side extremes where the tank rolls downward. It's a tough task for sure.

07-25-2019, 07:12 PM	#9
walkerlakeprinter Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Walker Lake, Nevada Posts: 304	Re: 1929 Gas Tank webbing Thanks, everyone! I have my gas tank installed (almost). Apologies to Frank Sinatra, I did it my way. I ended up using friction tape from Ace Hardware on top of the firewall underneath the tank. I cut all but about an eighth of an inch off the 3/16 welting, ran a small bead of black silicone along the gap and pressed the welting into the gap and into the silicone. Looks good. I still have enough welting to do it all over if this doesn't hang in there. Now I have another problem! My old gas tank was smushed in on the passenger side sometime in the past, so I got a new tank. However, I discovered that the cowl panel also was dented slightly during the same event in the past. Now the holes on the passenger side are about 1/8" from being directly over each other. I will try banging on the cowl lip tomorrow to see if I can line them up better. If not, I will drill out the overhanging holes. In any case, the tank isn't going anywhere.

07-29-2019, 03:22 PM	#10
Dennis Pereira Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Georgetown Divide Kelsey ca Posts: 868	Re: 1929 Gas Tank webbing I stapled some cloth strips to the welting and wiggled the tank back a little then fed the cloth through . Slow and careful a little prying some soap and water sprayed on . Keep silicone away you may have paint problems ? I painted the welting before I installed but that was so long ago I may need to repaint lol . __________________ Dennis in Kelsey ca

07-29-2019, 03:30 PM	#11
walkerlakeprinter Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Walker Lake, Nevada Posts: 304	Re: 1929 Gas Tank webbing I know the silicone might not accept paint.....but my paint job is designed to look best from 30+ feet away. My car is destined to look like a 90 year old car that has survived all sorts of indignities over the years. I just want to get it back to running so I can hear that engine and hear how my horn sounds out here in the desert. I'm still trying to get used to burns from hot metal in the sun instead of cold and damp metal in Southeast Alaska.