Another problem solved-Distributor rotor

[1929]

I was getting intermittent spark, the car would stall, it was running crazy again, I have 3 different downdraft carbs, they all ran the same. Its not the Carb, so it has to be electrical. The problem ends up being the distributor rotor, the metal plate on the rotor that makes contact with the distributor body inserts was loose, and was scraping one of the four distributor body inserts. I installed the new rotor and the car is back to running great again. I guess its not always the obvious, and I should check the little things more often.

[pbishop]

Glad to hear you found the problem - always gives you a good feeling!


A old mechanic friend of mine once told me - 'Check the simplest fix first and you will many times save time and money.'


I have been meaning to buy one of those 'see-through' distributor caps for awhile now, I think I will go ahead and get that done.

[old31]

Now that you have it running you should check the rotor to dist pin gap, should be .025.

[1929]

Originally Posted by old31

Now that you have it running you should check the rotor to dist pin gap, should be .025.

It was, thanks

[MAG]

"Now that you have it running you should check the rotor to dist pin gap, should be .025."

Please tell us what Original Ford publication has that information.

[Synchro909]

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Originally Posted by pbishop

Glad to hear you found the problem - always gives you a good feeling!


A old mechanic friend of mine once told me - 'Check the simplest fix first and you will many times save time and money.'


I have been meaning to buy one of those 'see-through' distributor caps for awhile now, I think I will go ahead and get that done.

There's no need to buy anything specially to see what's happening in the distributor. I assume you have an old cap laying around. Take it and cut it so that all that is left is the centre and a strip of material from clip to clip, put it on and gaze away. Don't try to press the HT lead into it relying only on the strength of the cap - it will likely break.
You'll be amazed at the fireworks show if you run the engine like that and watch in the dark. Pretty!

[Chuck Sea/Tac]

Originally Posted by MAG

"Now that you have it running you should check the rotor to dist pin gap, should be .025."

Please tell us what Original Ford publication has that information.

I don’t know if there is any, because ford parts and specs were pretty tight tolerances. However if you google rotor gap, you will see that .025” to .030” is pretty much accepted. If you go with a smaller gap you lose voltage at the plug. Too much gap, and you’re damaging the coil by demanding more voltage than it can safely produce. That’s why those gimmick “air gap” things at the swap meets and county fairs would prematurely destroy your coil. Although, it would produce a helluva spark!

[ericr]

Originally Posted by Chuck Sea/Tac

I don’t know if there is any, because ford parts and specs were pretty tight tolerances. However if you google rotor gap, you will see that .025” to .030” is pretty much accepted. If you go with a smaller gap you lose voltage at the plug. Too much gap, and you’re damaging the coil by demanding more voltage than it can safely produce. That’s why those gimmick “air gap” things at the swap meets and county fairs would prematurely destroy your coil. Although, it would produce a helluva spark!

didn't we have a post some time ago to the effect that an owner found significant variances in a repro body?