Lower water pump bolt

[petehoovie]

Originally Posted by 51 MERC-CT

If the bolts were stainless this would still set up a situation for galvanic corrosion between the bolt and cast iron. If it were a situation where every thing is dry there is no problem. In this case it is immersed in a 50/50 water/ anti-freeze solution which is the catalyst to start corrosion.

At least a stainless bolt and stainless lock-washer wouldn't corrode. The water pump would probably have to be replaced from normal wear before the "galvanic corrosion" got to the point where the integrity of the water pump was compromised....

[51 MERC-CT]

Originally Posted by petehoovie

At least a stainless bolt and stainless lock-washer wouldn't corrode. The water pump would probably have to be replaced from normal wear before the "galvanic corrosion" got to the point where there integrity of the water pump was compromised....

True that the bolt and washer won't corrode, But the cast iron that the bolt threads and lock washer are in contact with will.
The bolts that were removed in this case were noticeably loose as a result of lost material on the bolt.
Not only the water pump but the threaded portion in the block could be compromised.

[petehoovie]

Originally Posted by 51 MERC-CT

True that the bolt and washer won't corrode, But the cast iron that the bolt threads and lock washer are in contact with will.
The bolts that were removed in this case were noticeably loose as a result of lost material on the bolt.
Not only the water pump but the threaded portion in the block could be compromised.

Well, I guess you'll have to live with your 'galvanization"....or, what's your fix?

[Mtn Wudy]

SO........What should the guys like me that read that,and thought that Stainless bolts and washer were THE thing use.....DO ??? I run 50/50 red Toyota antifreeze....

[41Joe]

Would a sacrifical anode work in preventing this?
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sd...RNIaAr2F8P8HAQ
Or is this only work for aluminum to cast iron?

[russcc]

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I would avoid stainless steel in all situations for 2 reasons; a. It is more noble metal than the cast iron it going into, b. the typical 18-8 stainless fastener is not a strong as even grade 5 fasteners. Do as Henry did, steel bolts & lock washers, combined with the right type of anti-seize. Use No-Rosion in the cooling system. No-Rosion breaks up the galvanic action chain so it does not occur. It is made by Applied Chemical Specialities in Omaha NE, USA.

[51 MERC-CT]

Originally Posted by petehoovie

Well, I guess you'll have to live with your 'galvanization"....or, what's your fix?

Simple, just do the same as 'Henry' did, steel bolt and lock washer.

[39topless]

Steel bolt, steel washer, replace antifreeze with two gallons of Jim Beam. Problem solved.

[petehoovie]

Originally Posted by 51 MERC-CT

Simple, just do the same as 'Henry' did, steel bolt and lock washer.

It's good that you learned and shared from your mistake....

[Drbrown]

How about bronze or monel bolts/washers (as in marine applications) ?

[Bluebell]

Thank you Steve (I think)
So: 1. Do I assume a std ford (or steel) bolt will last longer in this situation?
and 2. Does a corrosion inhibitor not stop this from happening (even with a stainless bolt and stainless washer?)?
I have to wonder how the head gasket is affected (if at all)
It makes me realize how important the inhibitor is when there are steel head gaskets involved.

As an aside, I just checked out a you tube thing last night and the guy said to put a volt meter on 20v dc., hook one lead on the battery, and drop the other in the coolant. If it reads 0.3 of a volt or higher, the inhibitor is past its useby.
He used a couple of other methods as well.
I always wondered how to tell when it was time to replace it.

[CT AV8]

51 MERC-CT,
This is a good topic you've brought up. Based on this chart I found, it appears the type of stainless steel used in the fastener affects galvanic action from "marginally increased" to "markedly increased". I used B8M bolts available from McMaster and they are Type 316 with ss lock washers. Not sure where that falls on the chart, but I had the rad off recently to install a new belt tensioner. Since I had access, I checked the lower bolts for tight and they were fine. This is after five years of running. So I'm wondering if the bolt is made up tight, then does the actual contact surface between lock washer and water pump stay dry and less prone to galvanic deterioration?

[Ronnieroadster]

On my engines the internal water pump bolt I use is always stainless with a matching stainless lock washer. Never discovered any type of corrosion on the bolt head or under the bolt plus the lock washer is also fine. The water pump bolt surface also looks fine. The set on my roadster have been in service for at least 20 years a good grade 316 stainless will last a long time at least they have in my application.

[V8COOPMAN]

Originally Posted by V8COOPMAN

How 'bout stainless bolts with the requisite Nev-R-Seize? DD

Originally Posted by Ronnieroadster

On my engines the internal water pump bolt I use is always stainless with a matching stainless lock washer. Never discovered any type of corrosion on the bolt head or under the bolt plus the lock washer is also fine. The water pump bolt surface also looks fine. The set on my roadster have been in service for at least 20 years a good grade 316 stainless will last a long time at least they have in my application.

Finally......a reasonable reply, and from a guy that knows the subject. DD

[flatjack9]

I'm quite sure a good quality steel bolt would live much longer than 20 years also. Personally I have not had a problem with Henry Ford bolts and I have taken an awful lot of engines apart.