06-25-2015, 05:32 PM | #1 |
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Aluminum heads
I just finished replacing the Edelbrock alum heads on my 49 Merc. powered 32 hi-boy.I could not get the alum head to seal properly and the engine ran very hot .
I had the same problem with my 59a powered 36 and replace the alum with stock CI heads and the problems went away.The merc. engine has a Isky Max1 cam and the heads needed to have relief machined into the head and the area area above the cyl needed to be contoured due to the Egge pistons hitting the heads.I just got it together and fired it up.Sounds and runs great.I will need to install thermostats due to the engines struggles to reach 150 deg.Has any of the barners had bad experiances with finned alum heads? Phil |
06-25-2015, 06:09 PM | #2 |
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Re: Aluminum heads
Nope I have Sharp heads on my AB and it seals perfectly. I have to run cardboard in front of radiator in the winter, at least for 30 minutes or so.
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06-25-2015, 06:16 PM | #3 |
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Re: Aluminum heads
i run fenton heads and never had a problem. i use a large electric fan and it seldom goes over halfway on the gauge. maybe the edelbrocks were warped. i always have them resurfaced before install anyway.
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06-26-2015, 01:25 AM | #4 |
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Re: Aluminum heads
Maybe its something Im doing wrong but sofar I am running 2 for 2 on problems with alum heads. Phil
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06-26-2015, 07:43 AM | #5 |
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Re: Aluminum heads
What are you torqueing to?
What gaskets? New heads? Martin. |
06-26-2015, 10:08 AM | #6 |
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Re: Aluminum heads
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06-26-2015, 11:45 AM | #7 |
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Re: Aluminum heads
Som ting wong! There is some reason that the steel head seals and the aluminum head doesn't...obviously the alloy head is the problem not alloy heads in general.
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06-26-2015, 11:50 AM | #8 |
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Re: Aluminum heads
Or the block.
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06-26-2015, 01:48 PM | #9 |
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Re: Aluminum heads
Are they copper head gaskets?
You say torque in three steps to 50lb, have you retorqued after hot to cold cycles? Three retorques is normal. This hot to cold cycles let's the heads get flat to the block and relaxed. Worth a try. Martin. |
06-26-2015, 03:07 PM | #10 |
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Re: Aluminum heads
I re torque after cooling down as many times as the gasket continues to flatten ,most likely 3-4 times.Phil
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06-26-2015, 03:12 PM | #11 |
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Re: Aluminum heads
Stud length? I think you have to use some model A studs with aluminum heads to get the right length-the heads are thicker than oem.
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06-26-2015, 03:57 PM | #12 |
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Re: Aluminum heads
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06-26-2015, 04:21 PM | #13 |
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Re: Aluminum heads
Have a set of Edelbrock block letter early heads on my 52 Merc engine in my AV8, no issues, I'm not running thermostats(currently) and it stays at 170 degrees. Temps here have been in the 80's( hot for us!).
I'm running head bolts, not studs |
06-26-2015, 05:41 PM | #14 | |
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Re: Aluminum heads
Quote:
Gona have to think about this, both these engines are ok with cast Irene heads? Martin. |
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06-26-2015, 06:47 PM | #15 |
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Re: Aluminum heads
Is this a continuation of the problem you had last year? Coolant leaking into the cylinders on the right bank. If it is youv'e been chasing this issue for a while. It makes me wonder if the head is soft and compressing on the retorques not so much the gasket.
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06-26-2015, 08:58 PM | #16 |
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Re: Aluminum heads
Yepper,same problem.The head is not soft,its gone!!! Problem solved,runs cool ,had to install thermostats without them it struggled to reach 150 deg.I have a theory as to what was happening.1 alum expansion is 3 times that of cast iron,there for always moving on the sealing surface.2.Alum.conducts heat at about 3 time better than Cast Iron,thereby robbing more heat (hp)from the combustion chamber and transfering it to the cooling system which on a flathead Ford is already a marginal design due to the exaust running through the block.Like I said only a theory.
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06-26-2015, 09:28 PM | #17 |
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Re: Aluminum heads
Were you using copper or composite gaskets when you had the problem?
Lonnie |
06-27-2015, 12:32 AM | #18 |
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Re: Aluminum heads
I have never had problems like that, but I have always used ARP studs, washers and nuts specifically for the Edelbrock heads.. I don't think the stock studs work with the aluminum heads the length is wrong.
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06-28-2015, 05:35 AM | #19 |
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Re: Aluminum heads
I hope it's not the studs fault. Just ordered speedway studs and plan on using them for edelbrock heads as well. Just can't see dishing out $500 for the ARP. A stud is a stud when torqued properly right??
Do you have to double nut the studs and torque them in the engine block? What's the spec? |
06-28-2015, 08:55 AM | #20 |
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Re: Aluminum heads
I doubt if the studs are at fault?Double nutting and jamming is not a good idea.I coat them with non hardening Permatex and put them in finger tight.Phil
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06-28-2015, 01:56 PM | #21 |
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Re: Aluminum heads
Took the car for a 20 mile ride this afternoon which included a 2 mile long steep hill.I put 160 deg thermostats in it.the engine stayed at 160 for the entire time even after idling for 10 min.The coolest level remained unchanged.With the alum heads without thermostats it would be pushing 210 and 220 while idling for more than 5 min.Plan to torque the heads again after cool down for the forth time.Looks like I have a winner! Phil
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06-28-2015, 03:06 PM | #22 |
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Re: Aluminum heads
Slight thread drift but it may help - I was taught to never double nut any stud unless I was removing it to throw away. Locking the double nuts together stretches the threads on the stud. The answer is a stud box. Basically a short bit of hex bar drilled and tapped to match the stud (think of it as a nut 4 or 5 times normal length). Wind it onto the stud. Then screw a bolt down on top of the stud end inside the stud box. Once locked together you can put a spanner on the outside of the hex and wind the stud in or out. The only thread stretch is to the thread in the stud box.
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