Incorrectly mounted Spare Wheels on 1932-1935 Fords

[mercman from oz]

It amazes me how many immaculately restored high point 1932 to 1935 Ford have their spare wheels mounted incorrectly. When these 1932-1935 Fords left the Factory, the position of the Valve was always at the top, regardless of if the Spare was mounted at the rear or in the Fender. The reason for this was to prevent water sitting in the valve opening, which over time causes problems with rust. The other reason is that that any water that is trapped behind the hubcap can escape through a small hole that Henry designed for this purpose.
The next time you go to an Early Ford V8 Nationals or car show, take a close look at how many owners add the spare wheel with no thought of where to position the valve. The above photos of a very nice 1935 Ford Cabriolet is just one example. what do other owners of these fine 1932 to 1935 Fords think?

[mercman from oz]

This photos shows the correct way to mount spare wheels on 1932-1935 Fords, showing the location of the Valve at the top and the Small Drain Hole to allow trapped water to escape at the bottom. This is how all Spare Wheels were mounted at the Factory by Ford Motor Company. Your Spare Wheel should be mounted in this position to be correct, "As Ford Built It".

[Brian]

I believe 32 Fords wheels had the valve positioned slightly off perpendicular, which was rectified from 33. Bent spoke Kelseys like I run, also have the valve located slightly off of centre

[mercman from oz]

The owner of this beautiful 1934 Ford has mounted the Spare Wheel correctly, with the Valve at the top. This is how all Spare Wheels should be mounted, with the Valve at the top. Congratulations, job well done.

[Mart]

Don't know about spares but I always try and put the hubcaps on with the logo square to the valve. I also put the tyres on with the middle of the Firestone name centred to the valve.

Wheel and tyre OCD I suppose.

Mart.

[ford38v8]

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Originally Posted by Mart

Don't know about spares but I always try and put the hubcaps on with the logo square to the valve. I also put the tyres on with the middle of the Firestone name centred to the valve.

Wheel and tyre OCD I suppose.

Mart.

Mart, in my experience with wide fives, the wheels themselves are not always perfectly balanced, which becomes useful in locating the tire heavy side opposite the wheel heavy side. This is especially good to know if using the modern (junk) lead-free wheel balancing weights.

[mercman from oz]

Take a look at this beautiful 1932 Ford Five Window Coupe. The restoration looks perfect, but the owner has mounted the spare wheel with the valve at the bottom, ready to trap water, when it should be at the top.

[mercman from oz]

Here is a Factory Photo of a 1932 Ford Roadster with the Valve located in the correct position at the top. Restorers should follow this example when mounting their spare wheels to 1932-1935 Fords.

[JimG]

I didn't know there was a correct way to have the valve when I mounted mine, but I managed to get it on top. I figured it was either top or bottom and since I also had a luggage rack, it was easier to access the valve if it was on top. Thanks for clarifying.

[Brian]

As evidenced by the photo of the 32, notice the valve, even though in the upper position, is not exactly centred. Ford corrected this in 33 and for all subsequent models. Stock Ford wires only.

[mercman from oz]

JimG, Glad that you learnt something from this Thread. That is why I started it, to educate people in the correct way to mount their spare wheels on 32-35 Fords. It doesn't matter if the spare is on the rear, or fender mounted, the same rule applies.

[mercman from oz]

Owners of 1936 Fords can only mount their spare wheels with the valve at the top, as if they don't, the metal cover will not sit correctly. The hubcap on this cover is hinged at the bottom to gain access to the lock. If the cover is not mounted with the valve hole at the top, the hubcap would sit at an angle. The problem of where to place the valve is only a concern to owners of 1932 to 1935 Fords.

[Mart]

I mount every one of my wheels with the valve at the top. The problem is, after driving I find they are all over the place.

[mercman from oz]

Reminds me of a friend who owned a very nice 1956 Ford Customline Sedan. He managed to locate a set of NOS Wire Wheel Covers, the ones that don't have a hole for the Valve. He was not interested in pulling the covers away on those special retainers each time he wanted to check the air in his tyres, so he drilled a suitable hole in the correct position on each, and replaced the Wire Covers. He then went for a drive, and to his amazement, after returning home, no Valve was protruding out of the drilled hole. A set of NOS Wire Wheel Covers ruined. Regarding your car, I hope that the Valve on the spare wheel stays in the correct location?

[Zeke3]

I don't own one of the subject models, but am now informed so that I can carry the fight to the next concours field. Thanks for the information.

[al's28/33]

How interesting to note all the idiosyncrasies of Mr. Ford. …...


I wonder if any modern car manufacturers have similar criteria for autos coming off the container ships from China ??

[Fortunateson]

I thought only Buicks were made in China and only for their domestic market...

[tiger.1000]

This one was made in the USA !

[mercman from oz]

This thread is about 1932-1935 Fords, not Buicks.
Here is another example of the Spare Wheel mounted incorrectly, this time in the Fender. When these cars were assembled, the Valve was always placed at the top, no matter if the Spare was on the rear or in the Fender. The reason for this is explained in Post 2. This very nice restoration of a 1934 Ford with Six Wheel Equipment is spoiled by this slight error when the spare was mounted.

[deuce lover]

Notice the wheels are the bent spoke,accessory.Might be Motor Rim & Wheel.Curious to see if the bent spoke wheel valve stem location would be at 12 o'clock on the spare when mounted on the carrier. I had a '35 sedan with 16" Kelsey's and the valve stem on the spare when mounted was not centered at the top.

[DavidG]

Trevor is addressing a design characteristic of stock 18", 17", and 16" original equipment wheels, with on one side of the hub a drain hole for the inevitable intrusion of water into the hub from around the hub cap and the portion of the back of the hub open to the elements and opposite or nearly opposite that hole the opening for the valve stem thereby minimizing the possibility water intrusion via the valve stem. Like just about every other detail of originality, whether or not the spare wheels are noted as being mounted according to Ford's design intent is dependent on the knowledge of those doing the judging. And as with most subjects, history shows that to be uneven.


I applaud Trevor for attempting to enlighten those in the dark.

[Kube]

Originally Posted by mercman from oz

This thread is about 1932-1935 Fords, not Buicks.
Here is another example of the Spare Wheel mounted incorrectly, this time in the Fender. When these cars were assembled, the Valve was always placed at the top, no matter if the Spare was on the rear or in the Fender. The reason for this is explained in Post 2. This very nice restoration of a 1934 Ford with Six Wheel Equipment is spoiled by this slight error when the spare was mounted.

I'm not a '32 - '35 guy but really appreciate your keen eye. I enjoy the intricate details of our old Fords. It's things like this that separate the true #1 restored cars to the much more common #2 quality "restorations".
Thanks for sharing Mercman!

[mercman from oz]

Here is a comparison shot of the back of both a regular Ford wire wheel and the Accessory Kelsey Hayes wire wheel showing that both manufacturers added a drain hole. So, what ever wheel your early Ford has, the the Valve should always be positioned at the top, so that any trapped water can escape thought this very thoughtful drain hole.

[mercman from oz]

Ford owners are not the only ones having problems mounting their spare wheels correctly. Check out this 1930 Hudson Super 8 Brougham. The owner had mounted the spare wheel with the Valve just where it landed. While I was talking to the owner, I checked the back of this wheel, and would you believe that Hudson, like Ford had a small hole to allow trapped water to escape. The owner thanked me for pointing this feature out, removed and remounted the spare with the Valve at the top and the hole at the bottom while I was there.

[Cecil/WV]

While this may be the correct mounting and if I had one of these cars, I would mount the spare in this manner, but as far as rust, I doubt that in today's world, there would be little chance of a spare rusting!!

[mercman from oz]

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Nice 1934 Ford Sedan with spare wheel mounted incorrectly.

[Ian NZ]

This is the correct way that my spare wheel is mounted on my 1932 - 3/W. It depends how the wheel is mounted on the carrier too.

[mercman from oz]

Ian, love your 1932 Ford. Congratulations, you have the spare wheel mounted correctly. When you happen to see a 32-35 Ford owner with the spare mounted with the valve not at the top, can you respectfully let them know the correct position of the valve. Hopefully, we will get this message across to all owners of these fine early Fords. I just hope owners and restorers will read this Thread and act accordingly.

[CHuDWah]

Originally Posted by mercman from oz

Ford owners are not the only ones having problems mounting their spare wheels correctly. Check out this 1930 Hudson Super 8 Brougham. The owner had mounted the spare wheel with the Valve just where it landed. While I was talking to the owner, I checked the back of this wheel, and would you believe that Hudson, like Ford had a small hole to allow trapped water to escape. The owner thanked me for pointing this feature out, removed and remounted the spare with the Valve at the top and the hole at the bottom while I was there.

There's also a difference with the Model A Ford. The correct rear mount is as you describe with the valve at the top and the hub cap logo readable. However, the side mount plate is angled so the valve cannot be at the top. The first hub nut to the right of the valve should be at the top - the valve (and the hub cap logo) will be angled slightly toward the front. Course there's no drainage concern as the wheel hub is open in back.

[mercman from oz]

Unfortunately, this illustration doesn't show the Valve. The position of the Valve does not need to be "top dead centre" and is usually slightly off, but at the top so that the drain hole is at the bottom.

[mercman from oz]

You will note that the triangular bracket is marked "L". On my 34 Ford with a fender mounted spare, I could not figure out why my spare didn't sit properly and was at an angle. Then I discovered that the triangular bracket on my car was marked "R" and was for the right hand fender. After I located a correct "L" part, my spare now sits correctly.

[DavidG]

Wandering off the beaten path here, the instruction at the bottom of the Model A side-mount illustration must have been re-thought as the comparable '32-'34 instruction is to not bottom out the tire in the well. I believe that there were two reasons for the change of heart, namely if bottomed out the tire will trap water and not allow it to reach the drain hole(s) in the well and that's a lot of weight to be borne by the fender. The revised brackets post-Model A are much stronger with the addition of a brace from the main bracket to the front cowl structure.

[mercman from oz]

Right and Left spare wheel brackets for fender mounted spares in 1933 and 1934 Fords. Notice that they are both stamped "L". Actually, the painted one on the left was the one fitted to my 34 Ford but should have been stamped "R". No wonder my spare wouldn't sit correctly in the wheel well. After locating a correct Right bracket, the problem has been solved. It is interesting that the Factory stamped the wrong letter on my original bracket.

[CHuDWah]

Originally Posted by mercman from oz

You will note that the triangular bracket is marked "L". On my 34 Ford with a fender mounted spare, I could not figure out why my spare didn't sit properly and was at an angle. Then I discovered that the triangular bracket on my car was marked "R" and was for the right hand fender. After I located a correct "L" part, my spare now sits correctly.

Yes, Model A are marked L and R for the corresponding sides.

Originally Posted by mercman from oz

Unfortunately, this illustration doesn't show the Valve. The position of the Valve does not need to be "top dead centre" and is usually slightly off, but at the top so that the drain hole is at the bottom.

True, but note the valve on a Model A wheel is centered between two hub bolts. On a rear mount the short leg of the triangular plate is horizontal and on top. The wheel should be mounted to the studs on that leg through the holes on either side of the valve, thus the valve is at the top.

On a side mount, the plate is angled per the illustration. The wheel still should be mounted to the studs on the short leg through the holes on either side of the valve, thus the valve is angled toward the front. Again, the wheel hub is open in back so drainage is not a concern.

[CHuDWah]

Originally Posted by DavidG

Wandering off the beaten path here, the instruction at the bottom of the Model A side-mount illustration must have been re-thought as the comparable '32-'34 instruction is to not bottom out the tire in the well. I believe that there were two reasons for the change of heart, namely if bottomed out the tire will trap water and not allow it to reach the drain hole(s) in the well and that's a lot of weight to be borne by the fender. The revised brackets post-Model A are much stronger with the addition of a brace from the main bracket to the front cowl structure.

Could be - the illustration is from Ford service bulletins so it's legit for Model A.

[DavidG]

The instruction I referred to for '32s is also from the '32 Service Bulletins so it is more than just "could be".

[CHuDWah]

Originally Posted by DavidG

The instruction I referred to for '32s is also from the '32 Service Bulletins so it is more than just "could be".

Calm down. Maybe "could be" was poor phrasing but I agree with you. Just wanted to point out the Model A illustration is from service bulletins so it wouldn't be thought I just pulled it from a bodily orifice.

[Aarongriffey]

What about 1936? Or T Bird ?

[deuce lover]

If you have the 36 spare tire cover there is only one way it mount - valve stem hole on top.See post #12.

[mercman from oz]

Aarongriffey, Regarding the spare wheels on 1936 Fords, please refer to Post #12.

[mercman from oz]

Australian 1935 Ford Roadster Ute at Hershey 2019 with spare wheel mounted incorrectly. It is at the bottom so that water can sit around the tube, and in time, if left sitting for a long time, can rust out badly.

[Lawson Cox]

Talk about picking nits. There should be a service bulletin on this somewhere. Too bad we lost Larry (Mr. 34) Bailey a few years back.

[mercman from oz]

Factory Photo of 1934 Ford Sedan Delivery. Note the correct position of Valve - at the top. It also has a locking hubcap.

[mercman from oz]

Very nice Australian 1933 Ford with the spare wheel mounted incorrectly. The Valve should be at the top.

[mercman from oz]

1934 Ford with Kelsey Hayes 16 Inch Wire Wheel with Valve mounted in the incorrect position.

[Brian]

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Are you sure that's a Kelsey Hayes?

[mercman from oz]

As there were more spokes than the usual Ford 16" Wire Wheel, I just assumed that it was a Kelsey Hayes? I maybe wrong?

[Kpar]

Well the reason I set my valve stem at the top of my 33 mount, it saved my old back in bending down to check pressure.

[Tinker]

Originally Posted by mercman from oz

As there were more spokes than the usual Ford 16" Wire Wheel, I just assumed that it was a Kelsey Hayes? I maybe wrong?

Most, but not all are bent spoke.


Looking through a pa'ge book and ford bulletins. No mention of the stem direction. But I'd guess most were on the bottom for 35-36 rear and others for the most part. More so for 38-39 trucks as there was a locking bar.


.

[deuce lover]

Look at post #12.The '36 spare tire cover face plate has the valve stem hole at the top. Post #45, that is an aftermarket adjustable spoke wheel and TMK not a Kelsey(way to many spokes).Ford spoke wheels had 32 spokes.Kelsey might have been a vendor for Ford-I do not know and if they were I'm sure that their wheel conformed to the Ford specs. The AFTERMARKET 16" Motor Rim & Wheel bent spoke has 36 spokes and the AFTERMARKET 16" bent spoke Kelsey has 40 spokes.

[Tinker]

I'll go look at my 36 tomorrow and see which way the outer shell is clocked and if I can change it on a 36. 36s were wide fives but yes. Not sure there was standard clock position But maybe. Might be a preference.

[deuce lover]

Originally Posted by Tinker

I'll go look at my 36 tomorrow and see which way the outer shell is clocked and if I can change it on a 36. 36s were wide fives but yes. Not sure there was standard clock position But maybe. Might be a preference.

Only 1 way the face plate will sit right because of the hinged hubcap.Ford script would be upside down if the valve stem hole is at the bottom.

[Tinker]

okay I did a bit more looking. I don't want to get into any trouble with the Early Ford V8 Club of America posting here. Nothing in Ford bullets that I have address the spare directly. So buy the book. It's very decent. I might delete some images uploaded.


link

https://shop.efv8.org/collections/ford-books


.

[mercman from oz]

That picture shoes the Vales at the top, which is the correct position. Thanks for posting.

[Habusailor]

This is why I will only show my restored 35 to car shows that only have people’s choice awards. Not to criticize the purest’s but it’s just not for me. I like driving my cars more than showing them so will never have one judged in an AACA or Ford show. I am glad there are those of you out there that swing that way, I have used your expertise many times on getting me through a problem so this not a gripe but rather just my position.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[FlatheadTed]

Since most rear spare brackets have the studs placed in a triangle the drain concept wouldn't work ,going by post 23 it shows the drain of to the side instead of in the middle of the studs so there would always be a residue of water in there, maybe since the rear spare has the cap facing up its less likely to get water in it anyway .Maybe its meant for side mounts only ,as said there's a left and a right bracket that should place the wheel drain at the bottom providing you have the correct bracket ,

[Tinker]

Originally Posted by mercman from oz

That picture shoes the Vales at the top, which is the correct position. Thanks for posting.

Still need to get out and check my 36. "Valves" can be in different positions as shown. Buy the f'n book you cheap suckers . Not sure they say its definitive. Great publication. Link above. If you care do it. I might not be here to post it or care.

[deuce lover]

Tinker,I bought the book in 1998.

[Tinker]

Just saying as we debate, the info is there. Not that I didn't add to a standard that exist. or anyone added imagery for a book reference, just their opinion. and my opinion... or just look it up... cheap entertainment for the next few months if they are in print and can get one.


Still think I could clock the outer locking hub to the tire shield. Ya im difficult.

[GaryU.]

Fixed the 1935 wheel on my garage wall today. This came out a horse barn and when cleaning it off I did notice the hole for drainage but never thought why it was located where it was, learn something new almost everyday here.

[tubman]

Yep, me too. I went out, opened the trunk, and checked out the spare in my '51. Sure enough, the valve was in the wrong spot. I rotated it until I had the valve on the top and feel much better now,

[mercman from oz]

Correct position of Valve


Congratulations GaryU in correcting the wheel on your wall so that the Valve is at the top. The reason why I started this Thread is to try and educate owners of these early Fords, (and later) of the correct way to mount their spare wheels. Slowly, I think that the message is getting through. Next time you go to an event with Early Ford V8's, check them out and see and see if the message is getting through?

[mercman from oz]

Display of Tyres and Wheels at the Early Ford V8 Foundation Museum, Auburn Indiana. This photo was taken before the Extensions. You can see that the Vales in most are located at the bottom. Maybe, like GaryU, they need to take a look at how they are displayed in their new display area, and if necessary, re-position them so that the Valves are displayed at the top?

[Tinker]

Mercman, I looked at my 36. Yes the valve stem is on top. Haven't removed the spare tire shell and hub lock again to see if it's keyed. I'm guessing on the 36 you are right on. Other yrs might be different. The 38 truck does not care, earlier ford might not. But on the 36 full spare shield, that might be true.

[mercman from oz]

Nice 1932 Ford Sedan with fender mounted spare wheel. Note that the Valve is in the incorrect position. This is probably the only area on an otherwise very nice restoration that is not "as Henry built it".

[mercman from oz]

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1932 Ford Roadster with the Valve on the Spare Wheel one position out?

[mercman from oz]

This Wire Wheel, complete with Locking Hubcap and Strap is on display at the Early Ford Foundation Museum in auburn Indiana. The only problem is that the hole for the Valve should be mounted at the top, and everything would be perfect.
I just hope that Owners and Custodians of 1932 to 1935 Fords are taking notice of the comments and pictures in this Thread, otherwise, I am wasting my time?
I would love to attend an Early Ford V8 Event and see that the Valves on the Spare Wheels of these models are all correctly located at the top. Nothing would please me better. Mission accomplished.

[DavidG]

Perhaps a greater sin, given the location, is that it is not a Ford original equipment wheel. That plus what appears to be two different model year components (trim ring - '35 plus and locking hubcap - '34). In any event, I think you have made your point.

[mercman from oz]

I hope that someone reading this Thread takes the time to rotate this wheel that is on display at the Early Ford V8 Foundation Museum in Auburn, Indiana so that the Valve is at the top.
Now that everyone is grounded by this Corona Virus, it is time for 1932 to 1935 Ford Owners to check their Spare Wheels to see if the Valve is positioned at the top. If it is not, it is a good opportunity to correct it, now that most people have to remain at home and restrict travel. i hope that this message is getting through?

[VeryTangled]

Originally Posted by DavidG

In any event, I think you have made your point.

Bless you Trevor. Shamefully I'll be fixing my two cars before they go out in public again. And bless your life partner.

God willing we'll meet again and I'll be up for a big fun dinner on me for your and your party! (Forewarned that JM35 will probably be involved.) Dearborn was a blast but we shall see what waits for the next V-8 Grand National! I don't think we're going back to the same hotel?!?

[mercman from oz]

1935 Ford Fordor Touring Sedan with the Valve in the incorrect position? Now that a big proportion of the population is in home isolation, hopefully the owner will have time to correct this problem ready for the next Early Ford V8 event.
Slowly, by slowly, I hope that this message is getting through to owners of 1932-1935 Fords.

[35fordtn]

deleted

[VeryTangled]

Post 71 is my car on the day I drug it home 3 years ago.

There was a receipt for five new tires in the glove box. It was dated 1984. That spare tire had never seen pavement to the point when it was replaced... So I'm pretty sure that valve stem was at 10 O'clock for about 33+ years.

[DavidG]

Trevor,
You seem to be missing a larger issue given that the majority of the photos of spare tires that you have posted have the incorrect (non-original) valve stems. That suggests all five (or six in some cases) inner tubes have the wrong valve stems. Doesn't that make that "error" five or six times more important than the clocking of the spare wheel mounting?

[ford38v8]

I don't wish to trivialize the issue, but the old rule about not saying NEVER should apply here due to the physical ability to get it wrong at the factory and/or at the dealership before delivery. If a Judge at a Meet were to make a deduction for that, I'd think it should rightfully be contested. Such things should be noted on judging sheets for informational purposes, but without deductions made.
Again not to trivialize, I commend and applaud the catch by Mercman to educate the rest of us, as this sort of help is exactly why the Barn exists and flourishes.

[VeryTangled]

And being a Judge at a V-8 National meet carries a wee bit of pressure to be the lawman in town on that particular day.

[VeryTangled]

Originally Posted by 35fordtn

4 pages about a valve stem location.. I'm seriously thinking of incorrectly mounting mine..

You rebel you! Bad boy in da house!

[koates]

Originally Posted by DavidG

Trevor,
You seem to be missing a larger issue given that the majority of the photos of spare tires that you have posted have the incorrect (non-original) valve stems. That suggests all five (or six in some cases) inner tubes have the wrong valve stems. Doesn't that make that "error" five or six times more important than the clocking of the spare wheel mounting?

David, I would think that most early Ford cars in Australia at least have the modern rubber valve stems fitted because of the difficulty and cost involved in procuring the metal Schrader ones. So not really an issue for most owners and restorers of these vehicles. Having the correct original type shiny nickel valve stems is less important than the bottom of the spare wheel hub rusting out. Regards, Kevin.

[koates]

Originally Posted by 35fordtn

4 pages about a valve stem location.. I'm seriously thinking of incorrectly mounting mine..

Michael, well if it wasn't for the fact that we are all self isolating at home because of the you know what virus then we would only have one page of this information. Keep those hubs rusting. Regards, Kevin.

[35fordtn]

Deleted

[DavidG]

Kevin,

If you use the V8 Club's judging forms at local meets, there's a standard deduction of 2 points for the incorrect stems and 3 points for the incorrect caps, which usually accompany the incorrect stems. It is an expensive hobby and understandably trade offs often have to be made.

A misaligned drain hole is only a rust threat if a car is left outdoors for a very long period of time, which is unlikely the case for cars in hobbyists' hands, especially in Australia where rain is evidently something of a stranger. Notwithstanding, the thread was likely informative for many. How long it should be kept alive is subject to personal opinion as to its "best by" date. There are certainly far worse examples on the fordbarn.com forum.

[tubman]

I have no dog in this fight, but what is the difference in cost between 5 concours correct valve stems and re-mounting the spare correctly?

[DavidG]

I think you missed the point. Is it appropriate to use photos to demonstrate something incorrect in terms of originality that has other items in the photo which are also incorrect without so noting it? Some people rely on such photos for guidance in their restorations and by doing so are misled.

[Tinker]

We some lucky sob's to have what we have. In prospective, If you were a comic book collector a turned edge could be all the difference.

I'm thinking this would be great with a sbc in it. Serpentine belts and air! I'm being sarcastic. It would be a real shame to ruin it.

[mercman from oz]

Fully restored Australian 1933 Ford Coupe with correct Schrader Valve in the correct location. Also has the correct Locking Hubcap. Just for the record, this is the only Early Ford with the correct Schrader Valve that I can recall seeing at an Early Ford V8 National Meet in Australia. I have owned my 1934 Fords for 50 years, and when purchased, they both had the regular style late Valves. I just purchased a replacement "current style" 17" Tube for my 1934 Ford and it cost me $50. You people in the USA don't realize how lucky you are with the availability and cost of parts for our old cars. During the week, our Aussie Dollar slipped to around 55 cents, and our friends in New Zealand even fared worse than us. Do you pay $50 for a 17" Tube in the USA. At least, placing the Valve at the top does not cost anything. Installing Tubes with old style Schrader does. If you lose points in Judging when you don't have the old style long Schrader Valves, you should also lose points when it is in the wrong position. The whole point of this Thread is to try and educate owners of these early Fords the correct position to mount their spare wheels.

[mercman from oz]

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Just got this picture from an old movie by Ford. It shows a 1932 Ford Sedan on the Ford Assembly Line . Notice the position of the Valve, at the top. So, the Ford Factory Workers did mount the wheels correctly.

[al's28/33]

After initially reading this thread I confirmed both sidemounts on my "A" phaeton and my 33 V8 pickup have the valve stems at the top, HOWEVER the pickup spare was off one position. It is now pointing forwards, not aft.

I like the fact that we want our cars to be "as true to original" as possible. Just as we hunt every swap meet for the perfect deal, we scheme and plot to restore our cars to road-worthy living history. I believe its the getting, not the having.

[DavidG]

No doubt about it, the hunt, be it for parts or information, is a big part of the whole.

[cajunfirehawk]

Not a 32-35 and, definitely not hi end resto but when I put mine on I just figured that position made common sense

[mercman from oz]

Todd, I am glad that the message that I was trying to get across is starting to get through to owners of these vehicles. There is no cost involved in mounting the spare wheel in the correct position with the valve at the top.

[leakers]

Originally Posted by Mart

I mount every one of my wheels with the valve at the top. The problem is, after driving I find they are all over the place.

Easily cured Mart, if you avoid driving the car/truck around corners nothing will change and it will always remain perfect, like all of your stuff!!

[Tinker]

Originally Posted by DavidG

No doubt about it, the hunt, be it for parts or information, is a big part of the whole.

I enjoy the building as much as driving. Sometimes the building more so.

[mercman from oz]

Nice 1932 Ford Roadster with the Spare Wheel mounted incorrectly. The Valve should be placed at the top.

[Kube]

Originally Posted by DavidG

No doubt about it, the hunt, be it for parts or information, is a big part of the whole.

Well said David.
When I started getting serious with my restorations, I was told that to bring a car to 90% cost X amount of time and money.
To bring it that additional 10% - to a FULL 100% correctly restored car, cost twice as much (2X).
That has, as you surely realize, been a fairly accurate formula.
That is probably a major reason there are so few TRUE #1 cars. That, and the fact that the research required can be not just a "big part of the whole" but rather, a HUGE part of the whole.

[Kube]

Originally Posted by mercman from oz

Nice 1932 Ford Roadster with the Spare Wheel mounted incorrectly. The Valve should be placed at the top.

Mercman, I for one ALWAYS appreciate your posts. I find them informative and interesting. Thank you sir.

[Mart]

No attempt to align hubcap with valve either. Even I do that!

[V8COOPMAN]

Originally Posted by tiger.1000

This one was made in the USA !

Did ya ever wonder how many of those little square thingies there are in that massive '58 Buick grill? Ask Me!


Had a girlfriend in the early '60s (Linda Leydecker) whose mom had a big pink 4-door '58. DD












…………………...

[Kube]

[QUOTE=V8COOPMAN;1895192]Did ya ever wonder how many of those little square thingies there are in that massive '58 Buick grill? Ask Me!


Had a girlfriend in the early '60s (Linda Leydecker) whose mom had a big pink 4-door '58. DD








My guess? Too many.
Do I win?

[tubman]

I'm glad you added "4-door '58".

[mercman from oz]

Don't know what 1958 Buicks have to do with this Thread, but the answer is 160 Knobs.
The 1958 grille cavity contained no fewer than 160 beveled, chrome-plated squares that looked like small kitchen-cabinet knobs. Each reflected light from four different angles to create a "dollar grin" that put Cadillac to shame. Flint marketers came up with a perfect name for this dazzle: "Fashion-Aire Dynastar Grille."

[Tom-MI]

Here is a picture of a 40 spoke Kelsey wheel mounted on a '35 coupe. The valve hole is not at the 12 0'clock position but isn't very far off.

[JimG]

That's where mine is. The position is defined by the mounting bracket. This position puts the drain hole right at the bottom of the wheel, as Mercman has pointed out.

[mercman from oz]

Thanks for the picture of your Kelsey Hayes Spare Wheel. Yes, the Valves are not exactly at the 12 o'clock position, but close to it. When the Valve is at the top, the Drain Hole is at the bottom. Hopefully, the message will get through. It does not cost anything to mount the Spare Wheel correctly with the Valve position at the top, so hopefully, other owners will check the position of their Valve location and correct it if necessary.

[rbone]

Went out and looked at the spare on my '34 today. Guess I was lucky when I mounted the spare tire many years ago. The valve stem is exactly at the 12 o'clock position.

[mercman from oz]

Congratulations rbone, you got it right. I am glad that this Thread prompted you to look. Regards Mercman <><

[keith oh]

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I'll be damed, would have never thunk about the stem position.

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Model As also are supposed to have the spare installed with the valve on top or twelve o'clock position.