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#21 |
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Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: Australa Melbourne
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Another old trick is loosen the nut off a few turns and start up the n engine the head will come lose normally when it warms up a bit
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#22 |
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Join Date: May 2010
Location: Mpls, MN
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I'd also screw the nuts back on about half way then keep the studs wet with penetrating oil and tap the nuts sideways several times for a few days.
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#23 |
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Join Date: Jun 2014
Location: Melbourne, Australia
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If it is any consolation for you, it will come off easier next time!
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#24 |
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Join Date: May 2010
Location: Redding Cal
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Brenden
I feel your pain. I just pulled my coupe into the garage yesterday low on power with a leaking head gasket. My motor was rebuilt in the 40's last so I imagine that it will be a beast to pull also. Tomorrow I'm borrowing a head puller from another club member, I'm hopeful this will make it easier
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#25 |
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Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Anchorage, Alaska
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My Stipe head puller has been used on a dozen or so heads. Hasn't failed to get one off yet.
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#26 |
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Join Date: May 2010
Location: Mpls, MN
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#27 |
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Join Date: May 2010
Location: Portland, ON, Canada
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I had a similar problem the first time I attempted to remove the head. Funny how is goes much easier when you remove the two water neck nuts.
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Dave A Jamieson Portland, ON Canada 1928 Tudor |
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#28 |
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Just thinking out loud, how about using clay to build a dam around the studs and fill it with your favorite penetrating oil. hook up your lift to put upward pressure on head and heat the head area with a space heater for a while?
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#29 | |
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#30 |
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Location: Oregon
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#31 |
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Join Date: May 2010
Location: Mpls, MN
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Here's a link to a thread for a tool I made to give the head puller even more pull. I made this more complicated than it needs to be. A heavy piece of angle iron bolted to the water pump studs and 2 bolts to screw down against the outlet neck studs would do the same job.
https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showth...ht=head+puller |
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#32 |
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Join Date: May 2010
Location: At my kitchen table in Santa Rosa, Ca
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well i finely got the head off! what a joke! 3 weeks! i used a Bill Stipe Head puller and heat . also lots of penetrating oil. i think i need to replace some studs. i did not brake any
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#33 |
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Join Date: May 2010
Location: Mpls, MN
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Unless the studs are severely pitted, I'd leave them alone. If they must be removed, then I'd use an ox/acc torch to heat them red hot in the area next to the block, and as they cool spray some penetrating oil on the threads. Repeat a few times then try to remove them. Instead of penetrating oil, I've heard good results using wax to soak into the threads.
If or when they break, then Vince has an excellent way to remove the broken part by welding on a large flat washer and nut. This has never failed to work for me. |
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#34 |
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Join Date: May 2010
Location: At my kitchen table in Santa Rosa, Ca
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well i finely got my car on the road Monday. getting the head off was a nightmare. but after that everything went good. i removed the studs and had the head milled. also had the radiator fixed, it had a leak in it. i found that #4 exhaust valve was burnt. i replaced it and one outer. and laped them in. new valve guides and springs. the car runs better then it has ever ran for me. there is more power then it ever has had for me. also it seems to run smother
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#35 |
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Location: SW Idaho
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Don't ignore the need to re-torque several times after cooling down during the first 100 miles. Congratulations on tackling a beast of a job.
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#36 |
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There was a guy on facebook that had the same problem with his head. Tried different methods and with a head puller broke the spark plug section of the head. To remove it he had to use a cold chisel and a hammer.
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What's right about America is that although we have a mess of problems, we have great capacity - intellect and resources - to do some thing about them. - Henry Ford II |
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#37 |
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Join Date: May 2010
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i saw that, i bet he was not patient enough, i would get mad and walk away.
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If it would have been a snake it would have bit ya! i can't spell my way out of a paper bag! |
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