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Old 07-06-2014, 12:05 PM   #21
V8Vic
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Default Re: Merc crank in 36LB block

I'm one of those "Blokes", navigated that red '35 Coupe for a number of years in the GAR, the 21 stud Merc always ran great..problems always were with something else. Rex is still building these engines with Merc and Scat cranks. Get him at FLATMOTOR RESEARCH in Grove Oklahoma.
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Old 07-06-2014, 05:29 PM   #22
andyg
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Default Re: Merc crank in 36LB block

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Originally Posted by V8Vic View Post
I'm one of those "Blokes", navigated that red '35 Coupe for a number of years in the GAR, the 21 stud Merc always ran great..problems always were with something else. Rex is still building these engines with Merc and Scat cranks. Get him at FLATMOTOR RESEARCH in Grove Oklahoma.
Any contact number for Rex?
Thanks
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Old 07-06-2014, 08:03 PM   #23
V8Vic
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Default Re: Merc crank in 36LB block

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Any contact number for Rex?
Thanks
918 786 1950 Shop Phone 918 801 2406 cell
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Old 07-09-2014, 07:09 PM   #24
flatheadkid1
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Default Re: Merc crank in 36LB block

It looks like there is another obstacle to overcome in the rear main seal area. The 36 LB rear main does not have the die cast replaceable insert that the later engines have. If the 36 LB rear main is used in the conversion a ring will have to be added to the merc. crank (pictured on the right) to create the labyrinth seal.

Did 37 blocks have the replaceable die cast insert? If so it may be possible to use the 37 rear main cap (align honing required) with later 59A die cast inserts in the rear main cap and in the block facilitating the use of a rope seal. I don't have a 37/38 rear main cap to test this overly optimistic thought.
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Old 07-10-2014, 09:47 AM   #25
rotorwrench
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Default Re: Merc crank in 36LB block

38Vic
I'm glad you posted on this. I've always wondered how well that worked out. So many of the older 221 flathead engines may end up needing semi-wet sleeves at some point and I was always curious how well the engine held up with that type of machine work. The deck is flexible enough without cutting through the cylinder walls.
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Old 07-24-2014, 04:05 PM   #26
V8Vic
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Default Re: Merc crank in 36LB block

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ROTERWRENCH, sorry it took me so long to get back to you. Rex is the owner, driver and mechanic , I'm just the "gofer" and the navigator on this project. Briefly, he uses 3/16" sleeves, the bore for these almost always results in going through to "air", he leaves a step edge on the bottom and uses J-B Weld on the top and bottom. This has worked well and I know of no problems he has experienced with the many he has out there in lots of rally cars. The Tex Smith / Ron Ceridono book pretty well covers it but he is now doing lots of new things using the Scat cranks and just finished one with Chevy rod bearings, lots of machine work on that. Give him a call, he's another misplaced Kansan. V8Vic
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Old 07-24-2014, 04:22 PM   #27
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Default Re: Merc crank in 36LB block

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Originally Posted by flatheadkid1 View Post
It looks like there is another obstacle to overcome in the rear main seal area. The 36 LB rear main does not have the die cast replaceable insert that the later engines have. If the 36 LB rear main is used in the conversion a ring will have to be added to the merc. crank (pictured on the right) to create the labyrinth seal.

Did 37 blocks have the replaceable die cast insert? If so it may be possible to use the 37 rear main cap (align honing required) with later 59A die cast inserts in the rear main cap and in the block facilitating the use of a rope seal. I don't have a 37/38 rear main cap to test this overly optimistic thought.
The 37 engine and Pilot engine I have here both have a diecast replaceable insert. Haven't actually tried swapping in a 59A insert. If I recall, the labyrinth type and rope type housing do swap.
Martin.
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Old 07-24-2014, 04:57 PM   #28
Dave/Green Bay
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Default Re: Merc crank in 36LB block

Flatheadkid1: Check out the link to a post about what might solve your rear seal problem. Red's Headers has the kit we used. With the Mercury crank you would not have to grind off the extra ring on the 35 crank. Dave/Green Bay

https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showthread.php?t=21404
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Old 07-24-2014, 05:04 PM   #29
supereal
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Default Re: Merc crank in 36LB block

Adapting a 4" crank for the 21 stud block is more difficult and costly than swapping for a later engine. As said above, the longer stroke crank usually doesn't provide enough difference to justify the change.
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Old 07-25-2014, 05:51 AM   #30
jimTN
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Default Re: Merc crank in 36LB block

Question is, does Scat offer a 4" crank for the 221? That certaintly would be the logical way to go.
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