Lubricating leaf springs on a driver A

[James G.]

My 31 Tudor is in really good touring shape having traveled over 41K in the past 14 years. It has never been restored, just "maintained"! I have been checking into ways to lubricate the leaf springs just to improve the ride, keep down the squeaks, and maybe extend their life.

Spring covers would contain lubrication and maintain the springs into the future, but, how do I get them lubricated before the covers go on?

I really don't want to go through the spreader process to disconnect the springs from the running gear. Is there a tool(s) that will separate the spring leaves so they can be lubricated? What is a good lube to use?

Any instructions, advise, pictures, videos, etc. would certainly be appreciated
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[wrndln]

I can't see any way other than removing the springs, separating the leaves (using C clamps), sandblasting each leaf (or some other way to remove the rust and crud built up for 80+ years), coat the under side with a lubricant (I use Slip Plate which is a graphite paint), reassemble, paint and reinstall. There is a lot of pressure on the rear spring and a fair amount on the front, trying to leave it installed could be hazardous to you health.

[JBR]

Actually there is a era tool that does what you are asking. A fellow club member found one in an antique shop. I have seen them on eBay (not recently). The points spread the leaves apart so you can squirt grease in between them. There is another type that has a fitting for a grease gun attached.

spring spreader.jpg

[Tom Wesenberg]

There's only one really good way to derust and lube the springs, but here is a picture of a grease tool I found at a swap meet years ago. You turn the grease cup to inject grease between the leaves. For the time being I'd use an oil can or an old paint brush and apply drain oil liberally to the leaves. It makes a big difference.

[montanafordman]

I am about to install a new front spring on my coupe and was wondering what the lube consensus is. Do you use just the slip plate graphite paint; the graphite AND grease; or just grease?

[mjw]

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I had a bad spring squeak in an Off Topic car and used PB Blaster to get between the leaves and then used 30wt motor oil after a few days and covered it with a rag to keep it from dripping. Worked great for a couple of years. Would probably work on the front but the rear are so tight I am not sure it would.

[rotorwrench]

Most of the actual movement in a leaf spring happens at the last few inches of the leaf tips on each end. Leaded grease worked very well but is near impossible to get now since only one manufacturere makes it under military contract and it's very expensive. Slip plate is a graphite powder with a binding resin and there are other types with both molybdenum and graphite that work well and don't attract dust and other crud that can act as abrassives when mixed with grease. None of these last more than a few years unless you cover your pride & joy and only drive it in fair weather and even then, 4 or 5 years is about all you can expect from a spring lube. The beaded teflon, delron, or nylon plastic strips will last longer but add to the spring thickness and can cause dificulty clamping them back up.

No mater how you look at it, some form of maintenance will have to be done on some interval appropriate to the method of reducing the spring friction that is used. Nothing will last forever.

Kerby

[Clem Clement]

I did a "poor man's fix on my 39. I jacked the car by the frame so the springs and wheels hung. I used carb cleaner spray to wash out what rust I could between the leaves. I sprayed slip plate in between the spring leaves several times, the last time letting the car down with the stuff still wet.. So far so good

On my front springs, I oiled them years ago. Not too smart as when the springs get wet the oil flows everywhere underneath the car. Clem

[jan bogert]

JBR the tool you show just sold on ebay last night for SIT-DOWN $102.50 i wanted it but not that bad. JAN

[late31]

If you take the spring apart grind the ends of the leaves so they don't dig into the the next leaf below. This will help for a smoother ride.

[JBR]

"JBR the tool you show just sold on ebay last night for SIT-DOWN $102.50 i wanted it but not that bad. JAN"

You're kidding me. My friend spent $5.00 bucks for his in an antique store. I found that picture on the web. I didn't know there were any currently on ebay.
Jon

[buyitsmart]

I'm removing my rear axle to install the Mitchell OD. Is now the best time to grease the rear spring?

[Tom Wesenberg]

Originally Posted by buyitsmart

I'm removing my rear axle to install the Mitchell OD. Is now the best time to grease the rear spring?

Yes.

[poweredbylincoln]

try lubriplate i think its called at a tractor supply store such as a john deere or cat dealership its not grease but i think a graphite...so that u dont get ur hands all greasy n make a mess...i ground the edges of my spring n the topof the spring below it so that they will no longer dig into eachother n then top n bottom coated with lubriplate

hope this helps

[western77]

In 1963 I read an articel in Hot Rod mag which said to cut strips of al. window screen add bearing grease and put between each leaf. So that's what I did. Last week I removed the mess and found very little wear and no rust. This time I will use Tom's method and see if I can get 45 more years out of those springs. JB