Timesaver Questions

[PC/SR]

Gonna build a new engine this winter (does it ever stop, are you ever satisfied?) I have seen the Timesaver posts to "wear in" babbitt and have a few questions I hope the Barners can help with.
1. The Timesaver PDF book says to turn it at 100 RPM. That's faster than I can crank. Do you hook up a motor or something? Just turn it slow? How long does it take, knowing that will vary with the condition of the babbitt. But some idea, like 10 minutes, an hour?
2. It is necessary, or desirable, to use all 4 grades? Should Prussian Blue be used or can you tell the high spots with the Timesaver?
3. Shims. From Barn discussion I am convinced that the usual .032 pack is way too thick. I am thinking about splitting the pack down to .010 or .012 or so, besides, any bearing that needs to be taken up that much in my lifetime is a bearing that needs replacing anyway. But how much does the Timesaver usually need to take off? Is that too thin to start with? Any egg shape problems?
Anything else I should know?

Thanks to all for your thoughts, comments, suggestions. Love this forum.

[Phred]

I don't have any experience with the Timesaver, but I agree with point #3. After taking up more than a few thousandths the hole is getting more and more oval shaped.

I think it was Vince or Marco that gave a comparison between the original steel shims and the current brass shims. The brass shim stacks are "softier" and may compress under the load of the running engine, leading to premature wearing og the bearings.

To me it makes sense to use a thinner stack of shims, pre-compress them somehow, and have your engine builder use them when line boring.

On the flip side, is there a reason that most engines are built with thicker stacks?

[fordfixer]

I used the Timer saver compound this last winter. I don't have the can in front of me at this time. I believe the 100 rpm was the maximun they want it to be turned. Yes you can tell where the TimeSaver has done it's job just by looking at the babbitt. It does take awhile to get the job done. DO NOT DO JUST ONE BEARING. DO ALL THREE AT ONE TIME. Don't over use the adding of oil. You will wash out the compound to fast. I was amazed at the results. Complete contact on the bearing surface, and had clearances of 1 to 1.5 thousandths. The engine really smoothed out. Rear main leak stopped. I wouild only do this on a engine stand.

[BRENT in 10-uh-C]

While I have used Timesaver some, IMHO if you are building a new engine, why not burnish the babbitt and only use .003"-.006" shims. James Rogers and I have used out lathe to spin the crank so if your lathe is big enough, that may be an option for you.

[Glenn C.]

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Make up either an adapter plate to fit on the crankshaft flywheel flange, or use a 1- 3/8" socket with an adapter, on the pulley end, that will fit into the chuck of a 1/2" electric drill. If more power is needed go to your local tool rental shop and rent a 5/8" drill driver. If it has variable speed.....much the better.