The Ford Barn

PC/SR · 08-21-2015, 11:08 PM

My counterbalanced stock crank came back from a Magnaflux test with two cracks, so I got the "new" Burlington crank now provided under new management. It was a good looking piece out of the box, but of course the test was measurements.
The journals, main and rod, were consistent all round with measurements at 4-5 places. The journals were consistently even, within a couple of tenths which is within the margin of error in reading and measuring. (Used 2 Starret mics for comparison.) I honestly expected the journals to have some out or round, but not so. Whoever did the final machining did a really good job.
However, what I found is that the journals are at the top end of specs. For example, Ford drawings show the main journals should be from 1.622-1.624, and the rod journals from 1.497-1.499. The Burlington was 1.624 on the mains and 1.499 on the rods, plus a couple of tenths. Top of specs.
The dimensions for the end play on the rods and crank were also within specs with no excessive end play. Therefore, no complaint with the Burlington. It was within specs. What other cranks may be I do not know. They advertise it to be within specs and it is.
The reason I mention the top side of specs is that my old stock crank, and babbitt, was at the low end of the above specs, so the Burlington journals were .002 larger than the old crank journals and would not seat fully in the babbitt bores. A couple of things could be done at that point. One is get a new babbitt job to the new dimensions, another was to grind the journals .002. However both options were time consuming and expensive so with nothing to lose, I thought I would see if I could lap them in with Timesaver, which I had never used before. The thought was that if things got screwed up I could always fall back to new babbitt or grinding the crank.
The Timesaver did the job. Why they call it Timesaver I don't know because it took 4 days (well, I don't work after lunch anymore)to get it done, but I really like the result and will use Timesaver on any crank or rod installation job in the future. I don't think I have ever had a crank or rods fit better. The surfaces are even all across and contact the full length of the bearings on the journals.
What I learned about Timesaver is that you need a lot of Prussian Blue for starters to see where the journals ride on the bores and the caps. Lap out the gaps and high spots and then start measuring with Plastigage for final clearance. With some experience you get some idea of which grit to use and how long to turn the crank with the Timesaver. Your inclination is to not turn too much so you are turning and checking the Prussian Blue and measuring with Plastigage quite a bit initially. Of the four days, the first day was on one journal. I used a half inch drill with an adapter fit to a socket to the front crank nut to turn the crank as someone on this forum suggested.
I now have about 100 miles on the engine and it has never run this smooth. (I also did some work to the flywheel and pressure plate.) But right now I have no problem recommending the Burlington crank. FWIW I have no relationship with those people except that Al, the guy I talked to there is a very nice and helpful guy.
Would like to hear from others what their experience with the "new" Burlington is so we all may benefit.

J and M Machine · 08-22-2015, 09:12 AM

To further comment on the crankshaft; there are two things that need to be checked before installation into an engine. These are two issues that have been with the crank since its inception. The crank flange area needs to be surfaced in a grinder and the crank snout length sometimes is too long for crankshaft pulleys, can't tighten them.

We've used many of these cranks over the years and it is a good piece for the price. main thing is as other commentors have mentioned is to measure!

Jim Brierley · 08-22-2015, 10:02 AM

Thanks Pat and J and M.

George Miller · 08-22-2015, 11:40 AM

I have also used a few. The first one had to much run out on the flywheel flange. After that they were all good.

Lawrie · 08-22-2015, 10:25 PM

What about balancing,I,m about to fit one and have the scales to balance all the rods etc,but wondered if I should get the crank done.
Lawrie

PC/SR · 08-22-2015, 10:29 PM

Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements)

I had mine balanced. Don't know how far off it was or if it was balanced when I got it.

hardtimes · 08-23-2015, 11:31 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by forever4

I found the Burington to be to be spot on when using a Starrett V anvil mike, though I don't have pics of the measurement with the Burlington itself. Here is a link:

http://www.fordgarage.com/pages/burl...crankshaft.htm

Also here are pics of the 1" and 2" Starrett mikes I use when measuring anything round. They are more accurate and repeatable.

Hey Vince,
Thanks for the good read on crank info at your site

!
An update on the cost from $950, I believe it is $1250 + now !

J and M Machine · 08-24-2015, 12:50 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Lawrie

What about balancing,I,m about to fit one and have the scales to balance all the rods etc,but wondered if I should get the crank done.
Lawrie

Yes: I would recommend doing so if the shop is doing their very best on rods and pistons. Typically we have seen about 3 - 3 1/2 grams off. Doesn't sound like much but every bit counts for a long lasting engine.

newshirt · 08-24-2015, 01:11 PM

I have an 'old' Burlington crank and inserted bearings, installed by Bert's. 5,000 miles, no problems.

I'm glad the Burlington came back.

jallison15 · 08-25-2015, 05:10 PM

Pat, thank you for such an in depth report on the Burlington Crank. I haven't responded in a timely fashion, as I wanted to read what others had to say. From your report, it is plain to see you have done your inspection of the crank very closely, as it should be done. I have had a large number of calls and emails, with questions about the Burlington and what I knew about another popular crank on the market. I could not converse very well on this, as I have never seen the other crank. I would have to say, however, that this crank must be very good, as it seems to be a very popular crank with some of the builders I have talked to. Again, thank you for the very good report on the Burlington Crank, which I appreciate very much, and it also gets out the news to other people, who may want to use a Burlington Crank.

08-21-2015, 11:08 PM	#1
PC/SR Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Santa Rosa, CA Posts: 1,278	Burlington Crank Report My counterbalanced stock crank came back from a Magnaflux test with two cracks, so I got the "new" Burlington crank now provided under new management. It was a good looking piece out of the box, but of course the test was measurements. The journals, main and rod, were consistent all round with measurements at 4-5 places. The journals were consistently even, within a couple of tenths which is within the margin of error in reading and measuring. (Used 2 Starret mics for comparison.) I honestly expected the journals to have some out or round, but not so. Whoever did the final machining did a really good job. However, what I found is that the journals are at the top end of specs. For example, Ford drawings show the main journals should be from 1.622-1.624, and the rod journals from 1.497-1.499. The Burlington was 1.624 on the mains and 1.499 on the rods, plus a couple of tenths. Top of specs. The dimensions for the end play on the rods and crank were also within specs with no excessive end play. Therefore, no complaint with the Burlington. It was within specs. What other cranks may be I do not know. They advertise it to be within specs and it is. The reason I mention the top side of specs is that my old stock crank, and babbitt, was at the low end of the above specs, so the Burlington journals were .002 larger than the old crank journals and would not seat fully in the babbitt bores. A couple of things could be done at that point. One is get a new babbitt job to the new dimensions, another was to grind the journals .002. However both options were time consuming and expensive so with nothing to lose, I thought I would see if I could lap them in with Timesaver, which I had never used before. The thought was that if things got screwed up I could always fall back to new babbitt or grinding the crank. The Timesaver did the job. Why they call it Timesaver I don't know because it took 4 days (well, I don't work after lunch anymore)to get it done, but I really like the result and will use Timesaver on any crank or rod installation job in the future. I don't think I have ever had a crank or rods fit better. The surfaces are even all across and contact the full length of the bearings on the journals. What I learned about Timesaver is that you need a lot of Prussian Blue for starters to see where the journals ride on the bores and the caps. Lap out the gaps and high spots and then start measuring with Plastigage for final clearance. With some experience you get some idea of which grit to use and how long to turn the crank with the Timesaver. Your inclination is to not turn too much so you are turning and checking the Prussian Blue and measuring with Plastigage quite a bit initially. Of the four days, the first day was on one journal. I used a half inch drill with an adapter fit to a socket to the front crank nut to turn the crank as someone on this forum suggested. I now have about 100 miles on the engine and it has never run this smooth. (I also did some work to the flywheel and pressure plate.) But right now I have no problem recommending the Burlington crank. FWIW I have no relationship with those people except that Al, the guy I talked to there is a very nice and helpful guy. Would like to hear from others what their experience with the "new" Burlington is so we all may benefit. Last edited by PC/SR; 08-21-2015 at 11:16 PM.

08-22-2015, 10:02 AM	#3
Jim Brierley Senior Member Join Date: Jun 2010 Location: Temecula, CA Posts: 4,085	Re: Burlington Crank Report Thanks Pat and J and M.

08-22-2015, 11:40 AM	#4
George Miller Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: NC Posts: 2,975	Re: Burlington Crank Report I have also used a few. The first one had to much run out on the flywheel flange. After that they were all good.

08-22-2015, 10:25 PM	#5
Lawrie Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Qld, Australia Posts: 4,212	Re: Burlington Crank Report What about balancing,I,m about to fit one and have the scales to balance all the rods etc,but wondered if I should get the crank done. Lawrie

08-22-2015, 10:29 PM	#6
PC/SR Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Santa Rosa, CA Posts: 1,278	Re: Burlington Crank Report Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements) I had mine balanced. Don't know how far off it was or if it was balanced when I got it.

08-24-2015, 01:11 PM	#9
newshirt Senior Member Join Date: Jan 2011 Location: Colorado Springs Posts: 868	Re: Burlington Crank Report I have an 'old' Burlington crank and inserted bearings, installed by Bert's. 5,000 miles, no problems. I'm glad the Burlington came back. __________________ Ray White

08-25-2015, 05:10 PM	#10
jallison15 Junior Member Join Date: Dec 2014 Location: Texas Posts: 11	Re: Burlington Crank Report Pat, thank you for such an in depth report on the Burlington Crank. I haven't responded in a timely fashion, as I wanted to read what others had to say. From your report, it is plain to see you have done your inspection of the crank very closely, as it should be done. I have had a large number of calls and emails, with questions about the Burlington and what I knew about another popular crank on the market. I could not converse very well on this, as I have never seen the other crank. I would have to say, however, that this crank must be very good, as it seems to be a very popular crank with some of the builders I have talked to. Again, thank you for the very good report on the Burlington Crank, which I appreciate very much, and it also gets out the news to other people, who may want to use a Burlington Crank.