Black Painted Parts

[1930deluxe]

Was the items such as bumper brackets, fender brackets and rims, that were black on a 1930 tudor sedan painted in gloss, semi-gloss or satin?

[glenn in camino]

gloss.

[wrndln]

Ford dipped many items in gloss enamel, including large parts like fenders.
Rusty Nelson

[1930deluxe]

Thank You, for your response that will help when I take the parts to be powder coated.

[chap52]

Great durable rattle can paint is VHT Black Gloss Engine paint available at most auto parts stores and even Wal Mart if your on a tight budget.

[Mike V. Florida]

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This chart might help.

[BRENT in 10-uh-C]

Originally Posted by Mike V. Florida

This chart might help.

Mike, chasing a rabbit here, if you recall back on the old Fordbarn forum, we got into this discussion about what the modern paints were supposed to look like when trying to replicate original finishes. Marco was suggesting one way (-and I believe he even listed something on his website regarding it) and Terry Deters (professional restorer) was suggesting that was not totally correct.

The chart you have printed comes from the RG&JS, and if you are wanting a Model-A evaluated in competition at a National Meet, then that IS the chart that should be the benchmark however as Terry pointed out to me, defining of the semi-gloss, gloss, and satin Black on these item is not authentically correct. Terry told me it was more about the paint's texture that created the gloss level rather than just adding flattener to the color.

So based on what Terry was telling me, about 10 years ago I did an exercise to verify some paint textures using different types of paint. Originally, items from the size of front fenders and smaller were dipped in a heated tank of water with a layer of Black Alkyd Enamel floating on top. The first tank was a Black enamel paint with a bonderizer added, and the second was just straight Alkyd enamel. Because those tanks were heated, the paint viscosity was likely thin, although when I did my testing I did not warm my paint. What I did is purchase a couple of gallons of Black Alkyd Enamel from Tractor Supply and dump it into a large plastic container to replicate a vat. Then I dipped various pieces like front bumper arms, brackets, and misc items into the paint and then hang them to dry. My one-time dip paint thickness was likely to what the two-dip thickness that Ford used, and what I found was the paint was very self-leveling and shiny, however the surface was not smooth like you see when the part has been primed and sanded (which is often how a Model-A is over-restored) on items such as bumper brackets, fender braces, etc. No on brand new sheetmetal such as fenders and aprons, the dipped finish was VERY smooth without any orange peel or texture.

Now to replicate axles and such, it has been suggested that Ford originally used Pyroxylin in a sprayed format on items such as front and rear axles (--which for what it's worth, I disagree that they were sprayed but were dipped instead). Although I did not use Black Pyroxylin, I did use Black Nitrocellulose Lacquer which is very similar in characteristics. Now consider this. The Black enamel that I used was just as black as Black lacquer paint. There was no satin, semi-gloss, or gloss level differences. They both were deep glossy Black in the can. The difference was the sprayed lacquer had a different texture than the dipped paint. Both Blacks were equally Black, its that one refracted light differently than the other.

So to bring this to a close, some 10 years ago we got into this big kick about the un-rubbed areas like door jambs, firewalls, and underbody areas needed to have flattener added to the modern paints to replicate how it originally was, ...and that was incorrect thinking. These areas are not supposed to be smooth with flattened gloss-level of paint, but instead are supposed to have a sprayed texture that replicates Pyroxylin or Lacquer does. If you need further visuals, go to any hardware store to purchase a rattle can of Black Lacquer paint and a can of Black Enamel paint. Apply several coats to two pieces of like sheetmetal and compare the finish differences between the two. If both cans contain gloss Black paint, you will see that both painted items will have the same tint of color, and only the texture will be different.

[SeaSlugs]

Originally Posted by chap52

Great durable rattle can paint is VHT Black Gloss Engine paint available at most auto parts stores and even Wal Mart if your on a tight budget.

i am happy with rustoleum INDUSTRIAL enamel - not the 2x primer paint in one (stuff sucks) or the plain white spray can, im talking the silver can that says industrial on it. Prep the part with oil/grease remover or acetone and do not touch the part till you paint it. Paint it and let it dry for several days (week is best) then it will be a nice tough paint. I think its like $7 for the large can from menards/walmart/lowes.