ubscrewed shift lever

[glenn in camino]

On the first nights stop on a recent weekend tour, I noticed that my repo gear shift lever was starting to unscrew. At first, I was concerned that something serious was happening in the transmission. I drove it up and down the road in front of our hotel, and although it was kind of difficult find the right gear, it still drove ok without any strange noises. We continued on the tour and finally made it home. Today I removed the trans top and unscrewed the lever. I cleaned the threads, put a bunch of red Lock tight on them, and screwed it back together.
Today, after it set for 24 hours, I put it back together and drove it about 15 miles. All is good so far. Hope it lasts.

[C26Pinelake]

[correct me if I am wrong but did you not post this two days ago? Wayne[/B]

[Don/WI]

Who makes the repro lever that has a connector? What is the reason for the two parts? Is the bottom made of a hardened material so the sphere does not wear? If so, I would be interested in purchasing the bottom part and the connecting piece so when mine wears, I can have a repair on hand. Don/WI

[SeaSlugs]

Originally Posted by Don/WI

Who makes the repro lever that has a connector? What is the reason for the two parts? Is the bottom made of a hardened material so the sphere does not wear? If so, I would be interested in purchasing the bottom part and the connecting piece so when mine wears, I can have a repair on hand. Don/WI

probably easier to manufacture smaller pieces...

[Drive Shaft Dave]

Another good reason to find an original part , restore and replate.

[Tom Wesenberg]

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I restored a few shift levers that I found at swap meets or removed from my spare transmissions. At least one had fairly deep pits, which I removed by spinning it as I held it against my belt sander. They turned out nice after I got them nickel plated.

[Mike V. Florida]

Originally Posted by SeaSlugs

probably easier to manufacture smaller pieces...

Originally they were places on a lathe as one piece, machined and then bent. I don't see how three pieces, threads that need to be cut, all the pieces assembled into one unit is easier and cheaper then starting with one piece. But again I'm not a machinist nor in the business.

[SeaSlugs]

Originally Posted by Mike V. Florida

Originally they were places on a lathe as one piece, machined and then bent. I don't see how three pieces, threads that need to be cut, all the pieces assembled into one unit is easier and cheaper then starting with one piece. But again I'm not a machinist nor in the business.

could it be the way the Chinese reverse engineered it? Ball piece is on a lathe while the shaft is cast already bent? That and not every shop may have a lathe large enough to machine such a piece. I honestly don't know... Just thinkin out loud as to why its separate pieces.

[Mike V. Florida]

Originally Posted by SeaSlugs

could it be the way the Chinese reverse engineered it? Ball piece is on a lathe while the shaft is cast already bent? That and not every shop may have a lathe large enough to machine such a piece. I honestly don't know... Just thinkin out loud as to why its separate pieces.

Good a guess as any!

[Joe K]

If so, I would be interested in purchasing the bottom part and the connecting piece so when mine wears, I can have a repair on hand. Don/WI

Why not just buy another entire lever? Sacramento has them for $45. For a long time someone was selling them (and the brake lever) for $29.

You can't have TOO MANY spare parts, of course.

Joe K

[BILL WILLIAMSON]

One reason I heated mine to bend it, was because of a pic that was posted awhile back, with the lower end of a shifter, "tweeked" above the ball!
Bill Straight

[Don/WI]

Originally Posted by Joe K

Why not just buy another entire lever? Sacramento has them for $45. For a long time someone was selling them (and the brake lever) for $29.

You can't have TOO MANY spare parts, of course.

Joe K

In my original post (# 3) I suggested the possibility that the lower part may be made of a material that could be hardened to eliminated excessive wear. Even if that is not the reason for the three parts, I would be interested in buying one with three parts so I could make a new end that would/could be hardened. So if someone can furnish information on who makes the three part shift lever, I would appreciate it. Thanks, Don/WI

[Rowdy]

Thought it was the Shi Tango Wong Corp. Maybe I was mistaken. Rod

[Y-Blockhead]

Originally Posted by forever4

The Sum Ting Wong Automotive Components Group, I believe..

Originally Posted by Rowdy

Thought it was the Shi Tango Wong Corp. Maybe I was mistaken. Rod

You are both close but incorrect. It is the Phuket Firm, Phuket City, Thailand

It's getting late...

[Don/WI]

Thanks for all the help guys!! Don/WI

[Rowdy]

If Macs was the vendor all 3 of us are likely correct on who manufactured them. Rod

[Don/WI]

Originally Posted by 2rosella

I got mine from Macs Vintage Auto Parts just over a year ago, which was the 3 piece type.
just for your information, the bottom piece(the ball end) is not hardened I believe.
And you can not tell if it is a 3 piece lever from new as the chromework covers where they join. That's why I thought it was a 1 piece lever until it started to screw out after installing it into the vehicle.
Hope this helps.
Rob.

Ps. Don't take any notice of those answers by "forever4", "Rowdy" and "Y-blockhead". They are just amusing themselves & obviously have nothing better to do or too much time on their hands.

Thanks for your answer. At one time I was thinking of making new lower ends out of a hardenable material and offering them for sale but the logistics wouldn't allow for a reasonable price unless the "buyer" could cut off and tap the hole in the upper piece of the lever. I will probably make one for myself if/when my repro wears out. Don/WI

[SeaSlugs]

Originally Posted by Don/WI

Thanks for your answer. At one time I was thinking of making new lower ends out of a hardenable material and offering them for sale but the logistics wouldn't allow for a reasonable price unless the "buyer" could cut off and tap the hole in the upper piece of the lever. I will probably make one for myself if/when my repro wears out. Don/WI

Not against your idea Don but have you considered this: Which is harder; the original shiftier ball or the sliding forks? Ive seen both worn out but usually the ball wears much faster. My concern is if the ball is hardened then the ball will stay round but the forks will wear out. Which is harder to replace: The shifter arm or the forks? I mean the tower has to come off either way and I can see pros and cons of either one...

or if one could calculate the harness of the forks and match the ball to them it may be the best of both worlds - both would wear out at the same time but may last alot longer in the long run than the current setups (ford original and repo shafts)

Just thinkin out loud again...