Building Some 1932'S - Come Along for the Ride

[Ian1932]

Dry hood backs...

['36 5W]

Dang, that paint seems to flow out nicely, if you are not color sanding. Are you using single stage urethane? What is the color called? OEM color?

What a wonderful gift that will be going "full circle"!

[Ian1932]

Originally Posted by '36 5W

Dang, that paint seems to flow out nicely, if you are not color sanding. Are you using single stage urethane? What is the color called? OEM color?

What a wonderful gift that will be going "full circle"!

Its sorta close to "winterleaf brown" I have the formula if your interested

Its PPG single stage urethane with their cheapo line of reducer and catalyst. I found the trick with urethane, clear also, is run the pressure to the gun a little high on the first coat to make sure there is zero orange peel, then as soon as you can touch it with the back side of your hand, lay down a heavy coat just on the edge of it running if it were vertical @ normal pressure. The grill shell and hood pcs i did this way. No rubbing on these parts. Also, buy an Euro version of the devillbiss FLG-5, best gun money can buy in my opinion. If you have ever sprayed urethane clear, its almost like spraying that. The clear does flow a little better. Also, always spray warm metal, that helps too.

[rotorwrench]

I used to use the PPG Deltron some years back. More recently I used some PPG Concept urethane and it was a lot like Deltron. It flows better than most and pretty much stays flat on vertical surfaces as long as a person doesn't put it on too thick. I always liked the PPG stuff but it was harder to get here in SA so I just used Imron. Even Imron has changed though since Axalta took it over. It's not as reliable as it used to be. I've heard that PPG was considering dropping the concept stuff. I hope it stays around a while longer. It's getting harder to find a decent single stage urethane.

['36 5W]

Good tips for urethane users who can't stand color sanding, Ian. It seems to be as hard as old Imron! (I'm weighing the pros and cons vs. enamel. Not fond of isocyanates either.)

When convenient, I would be interested in your color mix; looks very close to Winterleaf.

[Ian1932]

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Originally Posted by '36 5W

Good tips for urethane users who can't stand color sanding, Ian. It seems to be as hard as old Imron! (I'm weighing the pros and cons vs. enamel. Not fond of isocyanates either.)

When convenient, I would be interested in your color mix; looks very close to Winterleaf.

Here you go. Also, if you go to PPG and get paint code #986, it will NOT look like this. They put in on the can but they had matched a cowl vent that was already painted. They did mix some of the #986 (the formula in their system) at first but it was a real olive brown look.

[Ian1932]

Originally Posted by rotorwrench

I used to use the PPG Deltron some years back. More recently I used some PPG Concept urethane and it was a lot like Deltron. It flows better than most and pretty much stays flat on vertical surfaces as long as a person doesn't put it on too thick. I always liked the PPG stuff but it was harder to get here in SA so I just used Imron. Even Imron has changed though since Axalta took it over. It's not as reliable as it used to be. I've heard that PPG was considering dropping the concept stuff. I hope it stays around a while longer. It's getting harder to find a decent single stage urethane.

This is my first time using the concept single stage urethane...Im liking it! I hope they dont quit making it...

[Ian1932]

Just cleaning and prepping the shiny stuff...Not sure why these lights had black paint all over them but it was a son of a to get it off...

['36 5W]

Old stainless and nickel chrome sure cleans up nicely, doesn't it?
Oddly enough, the black paint on the top half of the headlights may have been a remnant from the blackouts of W.W.2. Although much more common in Europe for both military and civilian vehicles, after Pearl Harbor, coastal cities of the U.S. were becoming fearful of invasion by both Japan and Germany.

Thanks for the paint formula and heads up......

[Ian1932]

Originally Posted by '36 5W

Old stainless and nickel chrome sure cleans up nicely, doesn't it?
Oddly enough, the black paint on the top half of the headlights may have been a remnant from the blackouts of W.W.2. Although much more common in Europe for both military and civilian vehicles, after Pearl Harbor, coastal cities of the U.S. were becoming fearful of invasion by both Japan and Germany.

Thanks for the paint formula and heads up......

After reading about the blackouts, there is without a doubt what this was for! Awesome pc of history! I had to soak the lenses in lacquer thinner all day to get that paint off and it was done so sloppy it ran all through the ring. After the war they probably tried to clean and just opted it easier to get new ones...Thanks for bringing that up, my dad will love to hear about that. He bought these lights at a swap meet in 1968. There was a note in the box...

[rotorwrench]

Methylene chloride (paint stripper) removes paint without affecting the bright work if you ever have to do it again. You are fortunate to have such nice original stuff to work with. The hardest part to find on the head lamps is the old original through connector sockets where the harness conduit connects. Originals were Bakelite and worked well but the reproduction stuff is mostly junk. I just wished some one made the replacement parts for the old Ford lamps like Ford made them.

[Ian1932]

Originally Posted by rotorwrench

Methylene chloride (paint stripper) removes paint without affecting the bright work if you ever have to do it again. You are fortunate to have such nice original stuff to work with. The hardest part to find on the head lamps is the old original through connector sockets where the harness conduit connects. Originals were Bakelite and worked well but the reproduction stuff is mostly junk. I just wished some one made the replacement parts for the old Ford lamps like Ford made them.

Im not complaining at all that have a selection of real ford parts to choose what one i want to use...It is really nice and i am very fortunate. I think these sockets that have a single bulb i can re-use. I should be able to just solder some modern wires without getting any on the little spring mech??? One set is missing the little spring tabs. Not sure if just a new one is a better option???

I know the stripper would have been easiest but it was late and i didnt have any,haha.

[Ian1932]

So, Im guessing when the car is done i need to take it to an upholstery shop and have them sew this together and cut the rear window hole? It also has what looks like little rusty residue dots on the majority of the canvas. Do you think i could get this dry cleaned?

[DavidG]

As the top material is rubber lined, I would specifically alert your dry cleaner to that fact to avoid it being damaged by the cleaning agents they use.

Having just finished installing a top on a roadster, it appears in your photos that you have everything you need to do it yourself, except tacks and instructions. Armed with both those, it isn't all that difficult to do it yourself. I've a spare set of instructions from LeBaron Bonney which you are welcome to.

[Ian1932]

Originally Posted by DavidG

As the top material is rubber lined, I would specifically alert your dry cleaner to that fact to avoid it being damaged by the cleaning agents they use.

Having just finished installing a top on a roadster, it appears in your photos that you have everything you need to do it yourself, except tacks and instructions. Armed with both those, it isn't all that difficult to do it yourself. I've a spare set of instructions from LeBaron Bonney which you are welcome to.

Thanks for the tips! I would love the instructions! Thank you

[Ian1932]

refurbished sockets and wires...

[Anton Voycheck]

Wow. That is great!!! Good luck with the projects.
Your father is very generous; thank him everyday.
My folks never gave me anything but a hard time.
Great work.



Voycheck

[Ian1932]

Went well but nothing to brag about, they are flat surfaces...

['36 5W]

Nonetheless, they appear to be peel free.
Are you finishing with your second, heavy coat you spoke of previously, or do you apply
a third coat?

[hotrodA]

WOW!
You're making amazing progress.
My Tudor is kicking my butt.