Ed Rossig Model A Fan Article...copies?

[gwhite]

Would anyone happen to have an electronic copy of the Ed Rossig Model A fan article - I found a copy of the first page (see below) but would like to see more, specifically, how much was cut off the 'short' fan in test #3.

Thanks as always!

[MAG]

Page 100 of the article states the fan is modified to 12 inches in total length. Two inches cut off of each of the 2 blades from the original length of 16 inches.

[gwhite]

Thanks MAG! That's exactly what I needed to know

By chance does it give any additional data (aside from what's on the first page) on running without a fan?

[MAG]

The author mentions cutting off the 2nd blade to balance the fan when one blade fails and breaks off. He notes that under normal driving conditions no overheating occurs.
He states that no overheating occurs using the 12 inch fan with 4,000 miles driving.
He also states " I would never recommend it (4 blade truck ) for use on a Model A passenger car."
Ed Rossig's article appears in "How to Restore Your Model " second edition. (Vol 1 ?)

[Napa Skip]

As MAG indicated, the article appears on pages 98 to 102 in Volume 1 of "How to Restore Your Model A". See PM.

[TinCup]

Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements)

Yup that's where I got it!

[BRENT in 10-uh-C]

So doesn't this article kinda lean into the mindset that a small two blade fan is all that is necessary, ...and not a 4 "truck" blade or one of those 6 blade plastic ones?

[1931 flamingo]

I'm with you Brent...........
Paul in CT

[gwhite]

2-blade fan looks to be more than sufficient...but if you're running an HC head, larger cam, &c, you may need additional cooling (especially in this part of the world). My interest in the subject is slightly off topic for the Ford Barn - I'll be running all of the above along with a cut down radiator (to match the profile of my T roadster body) and am looking for a period-correct solution.

[BRENT in 10-uh-C]

Originally Posted by gwhite

2-blade fan looks to be more than sufficient...but if you're running an HC head, larger cam, &c, you may need additional cooling (especially in this part of the world). My interest in the subject is slightly off topic for the Ford Barn - I'll be running all of the above along with a cut down radiator (to match the profile of my T roadster body) and am looking for a period-correct solution.

Actually, most H/C heads have additional water capacity. Aluminum heads even dissipate heat better. You'll be fine with a cut-down radiator as long as it can transfer the heat. I know of several Model-T's with a V8-60 using a stock high radiator, and they cooled ok so you will be fine.


.

[gwhite]

Originally Posted by BRENT in 10-uh-C

Actually, most H/C heads have additional water capacity. Aluminum heads even dissipate heat better. You'll be fine with a cut-down radiator as long as it can transfer the heat. I know of several Model-T's with a V8-60 using a stock high radiator, and they cooled ok so you will be fine.


.

Excellent! Looks like I'm going to end up going with a 28-29 radiator cut down 2-2.5" (to use either a T or a cut down 28-29 shell) and either a V8 water pump on a vintage Cyclone adapter without a fan (would be the easiest), or a stock A water pump with cut down fan - although the blades would be incredibly short.

Not really sure a cut down fan would do much good without engine pans & a shroud...will have to do a little testing

Sorry for getting O/T

[BRENT in 10-uh-C]

Originally Posted by gwhite

Excellent! Looks like I'm going to end up going with a 28-29 radiator cut down 2-2.5" (to use either a T or a cut down 28-29 shell) and either a V8 water pump on a vintage Cyclone adapter without a fan (would be the easiest), or a stock A water pump with cut down fan - although the blades would be incredibly short.

Not really sure a cut down fan would do much good without engine pans & a shroud...will have to do a little testing

Sorry for getting O/T

Do those aluminum radiators on eBay look authentic enough for your project if they were painted with a thick semi-gloss Black paint? They should be able to capably handle your cooling w/o issues. Another option for an authentic core would be to contact Gery Berg and have him custom make you one using one of his T cores. He should be able to reposition necks to better suit the Model-A needs.

[gwhite]

Originally Posted by BRENT in 10-uh-C

Do those aluminum radiators on eBay look authentic enough for your project if they were painted with a thick semi-gloss Black paint? They should be able to capably handle your cooling w/o issues. Another option for an authentic core would be to contact Gery Berg and have him custom make you one using one of his T cores. He should be able to reposition necks to better suit the Model-A needs.

I've got a stock 26-27 T radiator, thought about putting the top tank & core on a 28-29 lower tank but it won't work...top tank extends too far back to work well with either the v8 pump or the stock A water outlet. Looks like a 28-29 top tank will fit a 26-27 radiator shell, so that's the direction I'm headed for now. There's a local shop that's as old as Methuselah that can do a recore but Berg's might be a good option as well. Thus far I have no part(s) made after WWII, so I'd rather avoid an aluminum radiator if at all possible.

Seems like this project is half restoration - half hotrod