New clutch wo't disengage

[chap52]

Maybe the fingers on the PP are stuck in a partially depressed position and loosening the PP bolts will cause them to snap back into place?
And maybe I'll win the Publishers Clearing House Sweepstakes? LOL

[richard crow]

check the pin that goes through the fork to the shaft. with the fork all the way back put a wrench on the end of the shaft & try to pull wrench toward the back of trans.

[chap52]

Richard, Thanks, I will try that this afternoon.

[JSeery]

Ok, if you don't have the transmission installed, what is the throw out bearing hub sliding on? I not sure you can get the throw out bearing to work without it being on the transmission front cover sleeve.

[chap52]

Fork is solid.
Tranny still has housing attached and TO bearing is accessible. When operated by hand the bearing will go forward on shaft to a position that is about 1/8 inch past front edge of the housing.
The measurements seem to indicate that all is well, but I've changed nothing since opening it up. I'll just keep dabbling with it until something is found.
Thanks again to all...Chap

[JSeery]

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Ok and what shaft is the TO bearing moving on? I could be wrong, but I don't see how it could work like this.

[AnthonyG]

J I think he's using the clutch linkage pivot shaft sticking out the side of the front flange on the tranny to slide the T-bearing forward on the input shaft, not sure an 1/8" past the front of the flange is enough as I have never measured the relationship of how far the T bearing has to move past the flange to actuate the PP diaphragm.

[Capt Kirk]

Not likely but I'll throw this out. I've purchased pressure plates in the distant past that had temporary blocks installed to keep the PP in the released position. Made it easier to align the disc with the PP fully bolted in.

[chap52]

Anthony that's what I am doing.
It slides forward on the shaft about 1/2 inch (my oops).
Hope the photo helps decipher what I am saying.

[chap52]

It does seem as though it could/slide forward a bit more but I will have to emery cloth the surfaces as it is a new TO bearing hub.

[AnthonyG]

I think that's close, I was having other issues when I put new PP, C-plate, pilot and
T-bearing several yrs ago and I remember measuring the max stroke slide travel at approx. 5/8". If your indicating with a little massaging you'll get a little more than 1/2" travel I think you'll be close.

[chap52]

Yeah, Taking all the good input into account I don't see any other issues other than the restricted TO bearing travel. I will doctor the surfaces, lightly oil and see if I can get a smooth transition. If all looks good I will reinstall and see if I can get a "happy adjustment" dialed in.
(There were no temp blocks)
Thanks again

[justold]

Originally Posted by chap52

Yeah, Taking all the good input into account I don't see any other issues other than the restricted TO bearing travel. I will doctor the surfaces, lightly oil and see if I can get a smooth transition. If all looks good I will reinstall and see if I can get a "happy adjustment" dialed in.
(There were no temp blocks)
Thanks again

Just food for thought , I remember many years ago my uncle and I replaced the clutch in my fathers 52 f1 and we had the same problem ,we could not get enough adjustment on it . The problem was the two half moon brass bushings on the end of the shaft that is connected from the frame to transmission .

[chap52]

justold, Good thought. Mine seem to be fine but I will double check them today.

[Ross F-1]

I don't see it mentioned; is this a 10" clutch? and you haven't changed transmissions, in particular from a crashbox 4-sp to the 3-sp?

[George/Maine]

The clutch disks are about the same thickness, but when you have a presser plate that has different fingers, newer style with NO screw adjustment's are most likely the problem. If you have the old pp look and see the different. To check the distance both new and old measure from flywheel to tip of finger. The adjustment on fingers are for the factory to set the correct distant.

[chap52]

Praise God! Another adventure concluded. The problem was that marred shaft (snout) that the TO Bearing Hub slides on, Got it operating smoothly, light lube, install, adjust and all is well. I'll get the interior back in and take the dog on a test cruise this afternoon.
I felt certain that the parts I got from Mac VanPelt were, as always, first class and that it had to be something I overlooked (spaced-out) along the way.
Thanks to all for the input, it is always encouraging to talk these adventures with others that tinker on these old rigs. Chap

[AnthonyG]

Great, glad you got there chap! Your right about being able to talk it through on FB, good Guys great sources of knowledge. Been there quite a few times myself.