Newbie Guidance

[ktkamm]

I am slowly disassembling the portions of the engine on my truck I feel like I can. The purpose ids to see if there is anything I can improve/repair and to also learn about my Model A truck. Only problem to date was a broken head stud. Got that out just now with the welded washer/nut trick (slick!).

I removed the valve cover and found a lot of grit and sludge in and around the valve springs, etc. First question is, that is the best way to clean all that out. With my primary job, we follow the saying, "first do no harm". I would like to follow that with my model A. Is there any value to removing all the valves, springs, etc and doing a good cleaning. Will it hurt the engine to sprat all those areas with degreaser then water?

Next job is to drop the oil pan.

Thanks for the advice. I have attached some photos.

Thanks,

Kieran

[1955cj5]

That valve chamber has passageways that feed oil to the main bearings and cam. Be careful to block those before extensive cleaning in that area . I don't think I'd use water. Non-chlorinated spray brake cleaner and rags is what I'd use. You can use pipe cleaners(from a smoke shop or craft store) on those main bearing oil passages to make sure they are clear..

[captndan]

Depends on how far you want to go to have a good ride. From the pictures and your description I would pull the engine and do it right. I'll guarantee you will find more than you can see now. $$$

[Pinesdune]

Like mentioned, plug the oil passages, I'd use varsol (solvent) in a spray bottle as it'll soak the gunk better then wipe away the worst of it, then wash her down with varsol and "blow dry" with an air hose (this will blow the varsol all over everything so cover your eyes with goggles and engine compartment first. I wouldnt remove the valves unless you want to do a rebuild or valve grind (the old addage is "if it aint broke don't fix it" or as some on here say "fix it till its broke!" ) Keep water and chemicals away from the motor, neither will do it any good, and some chems could destroy the babbit bearings at the bottom of those oil passages. If you want a worthy project.....when you pull the pan you could check the crankshaft clearances? Not a bad idea to see how tight things are when youre in there, it will give you an idea how good the motor is

[Big hammer]

One more option, use a shop vacuum, the hose to large,adapter hose down to a smaller hose!
Keep that sandy grit out of the oil passages, out of the bearings!

[hardtimes]

Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements)

Originally Posted by ktkamm

I am slowly disassembling the portions of the engine on my truck I feel like I can. The purpose ids to see if there is anything I can improve/repair and to also learn about my Model A truck. Only problem to date was a broken head stud. Got that out just now with the welded washer/nut trick (slick!).

I removed the valve cover and found a lot of grit and sludge in and around the valve springs, etc. First question is, that is the best way to clean all that out. With my primary job, we follow the saying, "first do no harm". I would like to follow that with my model A. Is there any value to removing all the valves, springs, etc and doing a good cleaning. Will it hurt the engine to sprat all those areas with degreaser then water?

Next job is to drop the oil pan.

Thanks for the advice. I have attached some photos.

Thanks,

Kieran

Hey Kieran,
What you've done is good.
But, IMO, now is the time to take the oil pan off !
Once that is done, you can check the rod/main bearings. IF those have any problems....removing the engine from vehicle and/or , if already removed, complete disassembly would be path I'd go. You will already be getting a complete gasket kit, so further tear down won't matter there. Where it will matter is with evaluation of internals and BLOCK condition. Good luck

[mike657894]

I used paper towels. Take and plug the holes with some paper towel and wipe it all out. The springs look like they were replaced as mine all looked like your distributor drive spring or worse. I would replace that spring and maybe the valve springs just because they are cheap. you should take off your valve springs and see if any of your valves are hanging up in their guides and put some oil or wd on the stem and spin it and work it till they drop nicely. And maybe lap your valves. be careful with the springs. they can take off some thumb skin in a flash while placing the keepers. There is a tool for sale. You can make your own with a grinder and welding another wrench to a 1/2 in wrench and grind the 1/2 to a wedge to get it in between the spring and keeper. tie a wire to the middle of the wrench and to a exhaust stud. Buying the tool will probably save some skin though.

[mike657894]

by looking at your picture it looks like your exhaust gland rings were not in. those are small circles of steel that sit in that groove in the block on the exhaust ports. they will help seal the exhaust.

[ktkamm]

Thanks for all the help!

I will plan on starting the clean-up tomorrow. I am leaning towards pulling the engine/transmission to learn some more and get a look at everything. I figure I mine as well learn as much as possible.

I dropped the pan earlier this afternoon. Small amount of sludge in the bottom. Oil pump need some cleaning. I have really been finding the whole experience very therapeutic.

As a side question, does anyone use a home electrolysis set up for cleaning small things like disassembled Zenith carbs?

Thanks again. All of you have been great.

Kieran

[1955cj5]

I think you will find that pulling the engine will make the whole experience more enjoyable...I pulled my original engine for the same reason, to clean it up, check it out and learn at the same time....It also gives you a chance to check the clutch and pressure plate. You can also paint it if you are so inclined...

The vendors sell an adapter to mount the engine to a regular engine stand that allows you to turn it end for end...

https://www.brattons.com/engine-stand-adaptor.html

[Tom Wesenberg]

I used pipe cleaners in the 3 oil tubes to the mains. I then used my syphon sprayer with gas to clean out the valve chamber. When you pull the pipe cleaners out it will remove any sludge that might have been in the pipes.

[RUNNERBUN]

If, and whenever you decide to pull the valves make sure you keep all valves, springs and keepers matched together and replace them back into the engine in exactly the same position they came out of. I place mine into separate clipseal plastic bags and mark the bags one thru eight. Likewise your pistons and rods should always go back into their original position. Good luck and have fun learning.

[chap52]

You are doing great. Good attitude makes for a good adventure.
I would be sure to have Less Andrews Model A Ford Mechanics Handbook Vol. 1 on hand. Great info and procedures to help you along the way.
Use your phone and take lots of pictures before you pull it apart for future reference.
Expect surprises, let the folks on this forum help you along the way and most importantly and enjoy the adventure.

[100IH]

In addition to post #12, I would add - keep the lifters (cam followers) in order as well. Can't tell if you have adjustable lifters or not, if you do,they'll likely be reusable. Also, don't be tempted to mount the engine stand on the flywheel housing, weak and breakable. Post #10 shows the preferred adapter. Do an advanced search for "valve spring compressor" & "removing valve guides."

[fixitphil]

Hey Chap52. How about "More Andrews". LOL!
I make those mistakes all the time.
Fixitphil

[Y-Blockhead]

Originally Posted by ktkamm

As a side question, does anyone use a home electrolysis set up for cleaning small things like disassembled Zenith carbs?
Kieran

Good morning, ktkamm. A while back on the Y-Blocks Forever site http://y-blocksforever.com there was quite a discussion on home electrolysis. I would ensure all jets and brass parts are removed from the zenith beforehand tho. They were using it mainly for rusty bolts and small rusty parts.

[H. L. Chauvin]

Hi Kieran,

All very excellent information above.

For your specific cleaning question:

"Is there any value to removing all the valves, springs, etc. and doing a "good" cleaning?"

One simple unforgettable way to maybe consider and reinforcing making such a decision on "cleaning" an engine:

A. You first mentioned seeing the "grit & sludge"; so maybe:

1. First, consider what can I expect if I "thoroughly" clean the entire engine; and,

2. Second, what can I expect if I dig with a shovel and add lots more sand, grit, and sludge to this same engine?

B. Not everybody agrees with rebuilding an engine only after thoroughly "cleaning" the engine ...... these kind of people probably see nothing wrong with not using toilet tissue prior to visiting their hemorrhoid doctor ..... so maybe something to think about when categorizing priorities for engine cleaning. ?????

[ktkamm]

Thanks again for all the great information, advice and encouragement! I have decided to go ahead and pull the engine. As you can see from one of the photos, the head is currently off and all the studs are out. In order to remove it safely, should I put all new studs back in, put the head back on and use of the plates that screw in to the spark plug holes. I do plan on getting one of the pates that would allow me to bolt it to an engine stand once removed.

Thanks again.

Kieran

[1955cj5]

Originally Posted by ktkamm

Thanks again for all the great information, advice and encouragement! I have decided to go ahead and pull the engine. As you can see from one of the photos, the head is currently off and all the studs are out. In order to remove it safely, should I put all new studs back in, put the head back on and use of the plates that screw in to the spark plug holes. I do plan on getting one of the pates that would allow me to bolt it to an engine stand once removed.

Thanks again.

Kieran

I've been thinking about what I would do....

I would probably put the head back on..no gasket for now unless you have the old one... and use two of the lift tools that fit into the spark plug holes. One would work but I think two is better....

https://parts.modelastore.com/show_Product.asp?ID=3502


I know others have used straps around the engine and in the past I have too..

Now you need to decide whether or not to pull the transmission along with the engine.

To pull the transmission you need to drain the oil and remove the tower, remove the clamshell and pull the pedals off. Just more work unless it's necessary....

I prefer engine only and the transmission can always be pulled later if needed.

[ktkamm]

Originally Posted by 1955cj5

I've been thinking about what I would do....

I would probably put the head back on..no gasket for now unless you have the old one... and use two of the lift tools that fit into the spark plug holes. One would work but I think two is better....

https://parts.modelastore.com/show_Product.asp?ID=3502


I know others have used straps around the engine and in the past I have too..

Now you need to decide whether or not to pull the transmission along with the engine.

To pull the transmission you need to drain the oil and remove the tower and pull the pedals off. Just more work unless it's necessary....

I prefer engine only and the transmission can always be pulled later if needed.

Great, Thanks

[1955cj5]

And one more thought...

If you choose to pull the engine only you can support the transmission with a beam...I think I used two 2X4's screwed together....across the cab floor, and a ratchet strap around the transmission and beam...

This way you can roll the chassis around if needed once the engine is out....

[Tom Wesenberg]

One 2 x 4 is enough to support the tranny.

To left the engine and flywheel, you could use a bolt in the rear hole for the coolant inlet mounting, and a manifold stud with a nut. I often use a seat belt or nylon woven rope wrapped around the intake manifold and coolant inlet.

[1955cj5]

Tom, I used two 2x4's because at the time I had a 4-speed, and had no idea how much it weighed...I know now the thing is heavy!

Kieran's avatar shows an AA truck....

[Tom Wesenberg]

Yes, those 4 speeds are very heavy, so using two was wise.

4 of us were using two 2 x 4's to lift the truck cab body back onto the 1930 Frame. One of the boards had a large knot and started to crack, so be carful of knots in any boards used for lifting.

[ktkamm]

Originally Posted by 1955cj5

And one more thought...

If you choose to pull the engine only you can support the transmission with a beam...I think I used two 2X4's screwed together....across the cab floor, and a ratchet strap around the transmission and beam...

This way you can roll the chassis around if needed once the engine is out....

Finally found a used engine puller and purchased an engine stand along with the plate to use with the Model A engine. Getting close to pulling the engine. Is there a way to support the transmission and still be able to close the cab doors. I am working outside and need to keep the rain out.

Thanks!

[1955cj5]

Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements)

Just shorten the 2X4's so they rest on the side rails inside the cab....I'm pretty sure that is what I did...I was able to close the doors....

[ktkamm]

Thanks!