Wheel sizes and offsets

[Boxhead]

Hey guys,

The info on the Sankey wheels, ( close to anyway)

225mm backset (8.58 inches)
152mm internal rim width ( wider than the 1015's) (5.98 inches)
114mm offset ( 4.5 inches)



Cheers

Corey

[truckdog62563]

Hmmm, those are singles. Too shallow to run as duals, but should work well on your front. I’d sure like to see a picture of them, or one of them. The below wheel is similar I bet, but is an 18” rather than 20”. I have two of these that were given to me by our FTE MH friend Chad (40fordmarmon6x6) who lives in the Toronto area. I’ve been trying to match these since then to make a set of four.

They have an outer rim design called the Firestone “R”. These have similar width, offset, and backset as your Sankeys. These are stamped with Ford CO1T 1015B and were made by Kelsey-Hayes of Canada under their number W23723. They have 4" offset, 8" backset, and 6" width. Could your Sankeys have this rim/ring design too? Stu

Edit - nope, those look to have a Goodyear type split ring. Stu

Edit #2 - thinking on this I fear you may have issues trying to run the same size tires on the Sankeys and 1015s. As I said above, the 4.5” offset / 9” DRW Spacing would work on the rear 1015s with a set of 7.00-20” tires, but that tire is really too narrow for the 6” wide front Sankey rims. I guess it could be made to work but you’d have the bead spred pretty far outward. Stu




Chad’s FTE thread.

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...ngton-6x6.html

[Boxhead]

Hi Stu,

They had a 7.5 tyre on them. Would you like more pictures?

[truckdog62563]

That would make sense, but a 7.50” set would be a risk on the rear. Rubbing of duals is dangerous. Mixing 7.50s on the front with 7.00” on the rear might work if you are okay with slightly taller tires on the front. Or, just accept that 7.00” on the front might be kinda narrow for the rims. Stu

Edit - I enlarged your picture and now see the second side rings that have fallen to the bottom of each Sankey base rim. I’m back to thinking those are the “R” type design. Do you see where there are/were rivets originally attaching the rings together?

So now I then have to ask too. Are you sure the Sankeys are 20”? Stu

[truckdog62563]

I’m interested in learning if your Sankeys really have Firestone “R” type outer rims. The only Rs I’ve had my hands on are the 18s I described earlier. This is a better picture of the unique double ring, and the riveted attachment of the rings together. There are numerous other designs having an inner side ring with separate outer locking ring, but this is the only design I know of where the rings were connected together.

I’d love to find a couple more of these 18” R wheels. They were commonly used on Canadian M-H 6x6s.



This is an original 1932 Firestone “R” advertisement. Stu

[Boxhead]

Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements)

Hey Stu,

Sorry i didn't see your last message until just now, i did not see anywhere rivets used to be on the rings to hold them together. They are definately 20 inch rims.

[truckdog62563]

Okay, I’ll have to see if there is another similar rim design that I’m not thinking of.

As you go forward with buying and mounting tires be safety conscious. Inspect the wheels for rust damage (blast or wire wheel), and when mounting tires use a cage when inflating them. There are many online videos of the dangers and showing what happens when a wheel fails. Stu

[Boxhead]

Thanks Stu,

The rims are all being blasted at the moment primed and painted. I would paint myself but they are doing it as part of the job. The rims look in pretty good shape, the 2 sankeys seem the worst but i wire buffed them a bit and came up ok. As for inflating in a cage, was this due to rim failure or the side rings failing? Or just general failure due to corrosion? I assume once blasted and integrity proven then painted it would be reasonably safe? Even so my local tyre shop will fit for me.

A question for you, where is the best place to buy brake parts for my model truck? E.g slave cylinders, brake shoes etc

Cheers

Corey

[truckdog62563]

A cage helps ensure that unforeseen micro fractures or rust damage doesn’t allow violent separation of the side rings. Once these wheels are safely together they tend to stay together. Glad you’re having them done professionally.

Brake shoes will probably have to be relined and, as I’ve read here and on FTE, new drums are NLA. Brake master and wheel cylinders in the USA are available from places like Chuck’s Trucks and others. Rebuilding locally is probably also an option. Below is Chuck’s web site. Stu

http://www.chuckstrucksllc.com/startframe.htm

[Boxhead]

Hi guys,

Ever heard of a rim with BB 1C15 - E stamped on it, i am assuming the C is a 0?
I am trying to see if these are compatable with my 1015's ( i need a couple more as a
couple of mine a damaged).

Chèers

Corey

[truckdog62563]

A BB 1015-E is a Budd 34909. It has the 4.33” wide Firestone RH rim and has 4.25” of offset. It is very similar to your 81T 1015s (4.5” offset) and should work in a DRW install if you don’t over do it on tire size. Stu

[Bob C]

Looked in the Ford parts book and BB-1015-E 20"x6" 1933-37 full floating
rear axle. I think 1933 should be late 1934 when the full floating rear axle came out.


Bob

[truckdog62563]

Yes, I agree that 1934 is generally thought to be the year Ford changed from the 5 x 6 7/8” pattern to the 5 x 8” pattern with the full floating axle.

And if you focus on my posting #4 above I explain that Ford was late to catch on to the change made to the industry measurement standards. During the 1930s the NWRA began posting both old and new measurements in their publications. Such as 5” (3.75”), 6” (4.33”), 7” (5.00”), etc. The Green Bibles through to the last 11/50 reprint edition have it wrong. Stu

[Boxhead]

Thanks guys,

Appreciate the information, i will message the guy and let him know they
May work for me.

Cheers

Corey