6V to 12V Flat Head V8

[tubman]

If you do a search on the H.A.M.B. (and maybe on here as well), I think you will find information about using a starter housing for a Ford FE engine and the original armature to come up with a cheap 12 volt starter. I have not done it myself (i'm a 6 volt guy), but I believe plenty of others have.

[5851a]

Originally Posted by Mike51Merc

I'm pretty sure nobody has collected data on the subject, so here's an anecdote or two:

I have a '51 Merc running 6V.
My buddy has a '51 Ford running 12V.
My buddy has gone through about 5-6 Bendix drives in the last ten years. I haven't replaced any.

My theory is that the 6 volt starter essentially runs at twice its intended speed, while an actual 12 volt starter will run at a lower speed.

It's like putting a 6V light bulb in a 12V supply, compared to putting a 12V bulb in a 12V supply.

The 12V on a 6V really makes it seem like they hit the ring gear hard.

[glennpm]

Thanks Chap!

[glennpm]

Hi,


Can someone in addition to Chap please confirm that the 8N tractor starter is a direct bolt on? It looks like my 6V starter on my 59A and am concerned about beating up the ring gear especially with my 12 volts.


Thanks

[tubman]

OK, I went and found the link for you. Here it is : https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showp...42&postcount=5

Note the price of the FE starter at O'Reilly's.

[19Fordy]

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Mel: A while ago I saw a Fordbarn thread on how to convert your ^V starter to 12V by using a 1964 Ford case.

[glennpm]

Thanks for the links guys on a conversion.



What I wanted to know though is if the Ford tractor 8N for a 12 volt, is a direct bolt on?


https://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-STARTER...1:pf:0&vxp=mtr

Thanks

[glennpm]

So it looked like a straight forward swap with the FE starter, so I ordered one yesterday and picked it up this morning from O'Reilly's. Thanks for the link.

Here is the latest number for it, noting that the last character can be either an "A" or "B". "A" for California and "B" for the rest of the states according to the guy at the store.

Ultima Starter - Remanufactured; Part # R813140A; Line: ULT

The brush springs and holding the brushes back was a little tricky. I found that if pulled the springs back with my scribe hook toward the corner of the brush guide/retainer, that it would hold the brushes out and in place. After doing this and going to put the long bolts in, I found that the end plate holes weren't drilled out for my 5/16" threaded end original bolts, just 1/4". So pulled the FE case again and drilled the two end plate holes out.

It works great and turns over real good without too high an RPM like it did with the 6volt shoes. I think people that had trouble were using the FE armature and not the original flathead one.

[Paul Bennett]

Do you ever feel as though someone is a day ahead of you, providing timely information just a you need it? Well deja vu, and I quite appreciate it. I've installed the new battery cables for the side posts on my new Optima battery, bought the side studs today and will connect the battery tomorrow and test my 12v juice on my 6v starter and along comes the appropriate threads.

I've been following with some trepidation the woes of broken Bendix springs and considered buying a 12v starter motor but the $180 price tag was a bit much. Making a $50 conversion is more like it. The 19Fordy link didn't work but a search found the conversion instruction w/photos. Thanks.

I think the starter cable size and length makes a difference on how hard a 6v Bendix gets slammed into the flywheel using a 12v battery. But going to a complete 12v system (battery and starter motor) eliminates the worries and allows using an oversized starter cable for a robust starting system.

[Karl Wolf]

I've seen a guy use an old bendix spring as an inline resister with a 12V system and a 6V starter. It worked well.
I would have done that- or measured and used a piece of steel rod instead of the Bendix spring or-

But went with the FE starter barrel and field coils. That's turning out fine.

Karl

[Paul Bennett]

Well, the FE Starter price started at $51 but then there were only 5 in the US.

Meaning a $10 freight charge because all O'Reilly's FE Starters are out of region. Feel lucky if you are in the midwest.

Oh yes, a $20 core charge.

I left the house thinking $50 but left O'Rys having paid $80.

QUESTION Is there enough stuff left over to turn in as a CORE??
Or should I keep the leftovers?

[glennpm]

Hi Paul,


Yes, I paid about $75 at O'Reilly's for my starter this past Friday. I figured the price would be more than $50 and I still thought it was fair. I was also impressed with their rebuild during the whole process of disassembly. I live in Maine and there was no indication of a supply issue. I called first thing in the morning and they got it from the warehouse by mid-afternoon the same day.

The thought about what to do with the "extra parts" came to mind. If you return it as a core, they won't be able to use it for another FE.

The FE armature that I'm not presently using is in excellent shape. It could be used and adapted in the future for the Flathead as others have done, by accident I think, not understanding that the use of the FE is really just for the field coils, conveniently mounted in a case that matches the Flathead, and the brush assembly.

[Paul Bennett]

The lack of availability at O'Reilly's may be due to lurkers getting there before me.

And since C&G and likely others sell a 12v starter for $180, what's to complain about a reman field coil for $80. Thanks for your posting this highly helpful (and timely for me) information.

[glennpm]

Good that everyone here could help us.


Thanks!