Exhaust Manifold to Tailpipe gasket

[C26Pinelake]

Originally Posted by DaWizard

Hey thanks for all your opinions.

Ya know, I thought you didn't need any input from me as it seems you all know it all, and all the responses just confirmed it.

It was Real, and Fun, just not real fun.

Seems like you made a simple job difficult for no good reason. Wayne

[Cool Hand Lurker]

Originally Posted by DaWizard

Hey thanks for all your opinions.

Ya know, I thought you didn't need any input from me as it seems you all know it all, and all the responses just confirmed it.

It was Real, and Fun, just not real fun.

If your manifold and your exhaust pipe is NOS and perfect and the clamp is put on right side up then it should not leak and you won't need a gasket. A bead of gook is a good idea though. A lot of people don't have trouble with exhaust leaks.
But if you are like a lot of us with worn or damaged manifold surfaces and repro exhaust pipes that are not perfect then you may have leaks. That is me.

I think your idea of using a tin can has a couple of drawbacks. As mentioned already, rust and thickness of the metal will become a problem very quickly. Also, the manifold and pipe have different inside diameters so if you weld the seams together ahead of time the sleeve will not fit snugly. I think you will be making extra problems for yourself.

My method that worked well was to get an exhaust pipe reducing adapter that fit snugly down into the header pipe and also up into the manifold. I took a length of small diameter glass fiber wood stove door gasket, and tied it into a loop that would fit snugly over the pipe adapter. I trimmed the upper section of the adapter so that only about 1/2" extended up into the manifold. Then all that was left to do was to slide the header pipe in place and clamp it tight. The gasket totally sealed off any leakage. Problem solved.

[Brentwood Bob]

Great diagram and pictures.
There are thread discussions on correct assembly and placement of the clamp.
I get more out of the discussions than I do from the negative feed back.
And I have found that a small ball pean hammer helps to tap the properly assembled clamp so it seats. And i try to use a floor jack to hold the muffler in place. Frees up my hands so I can fumble with the clamp bolts. The replacement mufflers I find at the swap have needed reworking the flange with said ball pean hammer to get a better fit.
Bob

[C26Pinelake]

Originally Posted by Ruth

I never knew there was a gasket for there.

You have to remember he does not have a normal Model A? He has Honda and other parts built in. Wayne

[Cool Hand Lurker]

Here is also a drawing of the clamp proper alignment. There are two different diameters, the pipe and the manifold. Both halves of the clamp must be aligned so that the larger diameter is on the top. If you get it wrong it won't clamp anything well.

[Smooth_One]

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Originally Posted by iverson

thanks for sharing your idea its always good to see other ways of doing something! I never knew about the copper gasket!

[ericr]

Originally Posted by forever4

There was not.
Adding a gasket just fouls up the fit for the muffler clamp.

The gasket goes in the category of repro fixes to problems that don't exist -- until you add it. Like distributor wireless plates!

do you think this fix emerged before we had repro mufflers with the correct flange on them? Also did the wireless plate emerge before we had the knowledge or availability of the correct stranded wire?


I have been wondering what people think of the "improved" repro muffler clamp that is threaded on the engine side, obviating the need for nuts and supposedly making for an easier installation.

[SeaSlugs]

Originally Posted by ericr

do you think this fix emerged before we had repro mufflers with the correct flange on them? Also did the wireless plate emerge before we had the knowledge or availability of the correct stranded wire?


I have been wondering what people think of the "improved" repro muffler clamp that is threaded on the engine side, obviating the need for nuts and supposedly making for an easier installation.

My guess is your right on the correct flange.

Wireless plate im sure is one of those gimmick fixes. After someone gets stumped as to random misfires or no starts then discovers its a simple wire they probably thought "well i dont want that to happen again" thus eliminating the wire. That wire has been around for a very long time but like now its not something the average hardware store had - people probably tried the general hardware store wire to find it broke or too stiff in short time.

We had to use the same high flex bunch of multistrant wire for our voltage sense wire for our welding robots, if you used the normal THHN stuff it would last about a month or two then break. of course hardly ever broke fully so certian welds/angles it would spaz out and burn hot as hell as it thought the voltage on the weld wire was zero.

Im kind of indifferent on the muffler clamp - the origonal style has the merrits that you can get them back apart usually or at the least you can cut just the bolts off and reuse the clamp. now the new style would be much much easier to install im afraid it will be the wrath of modern manifold bolts that love to rust and snap off right at the manifold.

[forever4]

Originally Posted by ericr

do you think this fix emerged before we had repro mufflers with the correct flange on them? Also did the wireless plate emerge before we had the knowledge or availability of the correct stranded wire?


I have been wondering what people think of the "improved" repro muffler clamp that is threaded on the engine side, obviating the need for nuts and supposedly making for an easier installation.

Eric,
I was not aware that the muffler clamp has been reinvented.
Originals have always worked fine for me.

I personally don't imagine the one you describe would be any better, but I guess we will hear about it in due course.

[Mitch//pa]

Originally Posted by SeaSlugs

Hmm after having to make a emergency exhaust pipe fix on my s10 with a cut up soup can and bailing wire that repair only lasted a year before the can turned to rust chunks/dust... I would not put a can inside to clog up the muffler/rattle around...

Yep that thin tin can will break down / melt in no time and lodge or hang out in the baffles

[Synchro909]

Originally Posted by ericr

I have been wondering what people think of the "improved" repro muffler clamp that is threaded on the engine side, obviating the need for nuts and supposedly making for an easier installation.

I have been using that type of clamp for years. Fitting ANY clamp there is a PITA, what with the clutch pedal being so close. The ones threaded on one side are a little less painful ITA.

[ericr]

Originally Posted by Synchro909

I have been using that type of clamp for years. Fitting ANY clamp there is a PITA, what with the clutch pedal being so close. The ones threaded on one side are a little less painful ITA.

well, yes, with right-hand drive I can see that the area there would be very busy for you guys.

[bnchief]

I used the metal insert Mitch suggested works great no leaks no sealer no gasket.

[wwirz]

Originally Posted by Cool Hand Lurker

Here is also a drawing of the clamp proper alignment. There are two different diameters, the pipe and the manifold. Both halves of the clamp must be aligned so that the larger diameter is on the top. If you get it wrong it won't clamp anything well.

This diagram of how the clamp installs correctly will solve many problems. Thanks for postin

[aermotor]

No one mentioned this, but make sure the rear tail pipe hanger is loose and allows the whole works to slide back and forth and rotate. I remove it and suspend the tail pipe with wire until after the clamp is installed, all with a floor jack at the front of the muffler.

John

[rocket1]

I bought the gasket and chucked it into the junk box,just a waste of money!

[sofield]

Nobody has mentioned to loosen the tail pipe bracket at the rear to help with the alignment. This allows for a forward and rotational movement of the pipe.