Rust

[derek costello]

I have used Fertan for years it is made in Germany, it is fantastic no rust on a properly treated part 30 years later! Just wire brush the rust, then coat with fertan let dry 24hrs then coat again then clean with damp rag, then paint it or just leave it as is (blue/black finish).
the stuff is expensive 60 to 100bucks a quart depending where you buy it.
Amazon sells it. Derek

[Ggmac]

I can tell you that in your mind its good , BUT from the picture and thats all i have to go on, ive often thought the same . Your supports and floor are not salvageable, especially being the strength for a convertible. Sorry . Im not trying to be rough or mean , just that ive seen dozens of old cars taken apart cause it was what the owner ‘ thought ‘ was doable. Only to be sold as scrap or to guys like me that made the best of what it was .

[Fred A]

Here in Southern California we have to be careful what we say when guys on the net begin the panel replacement on a beloved "project". The chorus of encouragement judges the car to be "solid" or better. Solid?? Where can we go with that? Hold a straight face when all we can imagine is how the Flintstones could put the rig to use? What's up with all this? These comments can't be real. Good Luck: Fred A

[Tinker]

Ospho. Is about as old as it gets in the south areas. It's for marine use on salt docks. Basically just a phosphoric acid concentrate. What they use in coke-cola instead of citrus acid. (look at a can ingredients). It converts rust, etches, and you can paint over it. Remove the scale and brush it on, repeat with a steel brush. Replace rot. Sometimes things are to far gone. Sometimes it just looks bad but isn't. 35$ a gallon.


Maybe sad to say but there are a lot solid chassis being sold now if you keep your head up and snatch it up.



.

[ford nut]

i know you're showing a frame in your photo but i used some stuff made here in california called "the destroyer" from a small place called "the shop". i used it on my floor pan of my 36 coupe. they also make something called "rust ender" wire wheel off loose flaky rust and roll of brush. i bought a Qt of each to learn about and try. hope this link works for you.
https://www.theshopproducts.com/products.html

[JSeery]

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Originally Posted by Ggmac

I can tell you that in your mind its good , BUT from the picture and thats all i have to go on, ive often thought the same . Your supports and floor are not salvageable, especially being the strength for a convertible. Sorry . Im not trying to be rough or mean , just that ive seen dozens of old cars taken apart cause it was what the owner ‘ thought ‘ was doable. Only to be sold as scrap or to guys like me that made the best of what it was .

Depends on what you want to start with and how much work you are willing to put into it. I like starting with what others consider a lost cause. Here is what one of my current projects is starting out as.

[tubman]

Originally Posted by JSeery

Depends on what you want to start with and how much work you are willing to put into it. I like starting with what others consider a lost cause. Here is what one of my current projects is starting out as.

In Minnesota, I should be so lucky; we went to Kansas for "rust-free" projects.

[JSeery]

Tubman, lots of salt here as well, but most of what I have been working on are old dirt track bodies. So, yes a lot of rust, but also a lot of deliberant destruction, totally stripped and a lot of cutting torch activity, LOL. For some reason they like to cut the hinge bracket mounts off. The body I posted had the doors removed by using a cutting torch on the door hinges. The 33 I'm working on for my son had to have the whole floor replaced along with the sub-rails and then a lot of patch panels. I have always taken the frames apart and sand blasted them, and then reassembled them. Have never done any media blasting on body panels, if they won't clean up good enough by other methods, I cut out the bad sections and weld in new metal. Forged parts, axles, etc can normally be media blasted fairly easily.

[Tinker]

Originally Posted by tubman

In Minnesota, I should be so lucky; we went to Kansas for "rust-free" projects.

In Minnesota they rust from bottom to top (rust belt). In Florida from the top down. Or so they say. Who ever "they" is. We should all start with a California or Arizona car.

[Clem Clement]

For small parts, I use Evaporust. It required submersion so not good for big pieces.
Clem