Swapping engines, any tips?

[SteveR.]

Over the next few days I’ll be swapping engines in my 1930 Tudor. I’ve done plenty of wrench turning, but never changed an A engine. Does anyone have any helpful tips to share for a first timer?

[ahirt]

I just did that for the first time. It was hard to get the old engine out because it simply did not want to move out of the rear motor mounts. Finally after lifting whole front end from the motor, it slowly slid out. Frame appears straight. Couldn't get new motor in even with frame spreader. Took old mounts off. Got new rubber from Bratton's. Old rubber was 50% thicker than new rubber. New motor slid right in perfectly. Hard to believe that thickness of rubber could make a difference. It did.

[SteveR.]

Thanks...any input is helpful.

What parts should I replace while I’m in there?

[burner31]

With the motor out it would be a good time to redo the engine compartment, if you were so inclined

[Wick]

Always replace the throw out bearing. Make sure front mount is in good shape. I clean everything that I can.

[Bruce of MN]

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New springs for the front mount. I assume you are already planning to remove the radiator, so think about new hoses. I left my trans in place with a support underneath (or could I have hung in from a 2x4 across the frame, can't remember?) One of these are handy: https://www.harborfreight.com/automo...ler-67441.html I had the head off and used engine studs as shown in my avatar to attach to.

[SteveR.]

I'm not removing the head, where do I get the lifting lugs that go in the spark plug holes?

[kenparker]

Snydrs, Berts, Brattons all carry the "loops". I have several homemade ones. Call me 903=952-7615. $15.00 for two with shipping incl using USPS flat rate box.

[kenparker]

Oh! one more thing. The spark plug holes are slightly off center and as result of using the loops in plug holes the engine lifts slightly lopsided. To counter the lopsided lift a ratchet strap around the Water inlet (on driver side of engine) and connected to lifting chain can and will straighten engin bact to vertical/level.

[Charlie Stephens]

Remember, unlike most modern engines, there is a paper gasket between the engine and transmission and shims under the top two bolts on the flywheel housing.

Charlie Stephens

[wmws]

I always leave the transmission attached to the engine. That puts it on a good angle to slide out. Can even be done with the light bar still on the car. Then you can deal with the throughout bearing, clutch, and even the transmission out of the car.

[whirnot]

First thing, take the front bumper off. Only two bolts, and it makes everything so much easier. You would be surprised how many don't.

[Conaway2]

In addition to all the great suggestions so far, I would also replace the clutch disc and inspect the pressure plate and flywheel surfaces. May as well do this while it’s easily done with the engine out. I would also take the opportunity to replace some steering box parts - much easier to do with the engine out.

[daren007]

Definitely remove the front bumper.

[katy]

Can one person R & R the hood by them self w/out damaging something?

[Purdy Swoft]

I can ! Removing the hood is much easier if the hood sides are first removed .

[Railcarmover]

If separating at the clutch try to avoid jerking the engine out,you can crack the flywheel housing,especially with original rear engine mounts

[Fred K-OR]

If you also swap out the transmission, make sure the rear part that bolts onto the rear end is the same as the one you took out. There are two different ones with different holes in them.

[fredski53]

When I reinstalled my motor, I didn't put any shims under the top two bolts of the flywheel housing. What will happen without those two shims?

[Charlie Stephens]

If your Model A is registered by the motor number be sure to talk to your local DMV before you make the swap.

Charlie Stephens