1930 Tudor Brake Light Switch Location

[RichBooth]

My vehicle came to me in semi-disassembled state. There is a single brake light on the rear, driver's side, with a short wire tail that appears to be cut off. There are no wires anywhere towards the back beyond the battery. I want to install a brake light switch and have read all about what can go wrong and where to get one, but for the life of me, I can't find a photo showing how it looks installed or how it is installed for that matter. I've read that it goes on the cross member, but without a reference I can't figure it out.
Anyone have an installation guide, photos or drawings for the brake light install location?
Thank you!

[Bob C]

See the red line by the center cross member.


Bob

[katy]

See the service bulletins, page 416

[Purdy Swoft]

The brake light switch mounts to the drivers side rear of the center cross member .

You should find three holes in this area where the switch mounts .

The brake pedal rod has a plunger type end at the rear of the brake pedal rod

. The plunger meets the activator on the brake light switch on the drivers side inner center crossmember .

The switch connects to the center cross member with two nuts and bolts .

Two wires connect to the switch .

If the brake light doesn't work try switching the wire connections at the switch

[1930deluxe]

The switch works opposite of most switches. This switch disengages when the rod is pushed to the rear. The current travels through it when the rod is forward. If the brake lights stay on you need to adjust the brake rod longer to push the light switch rod to the rear more to break the current flow. I hope this make sense.

[Purdy Swoft]

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My problem has been that both wires are the same size and color .

The only way that I have determined correct connection at the brake light switch was trial and error .

There are only two wires so its not that bad of a problem .

[Bob C]

Originally Posted by Purdy Swoft

My problem has been that both wires are the same size and color .

The only way that I have determined correct connection at the brake light switch was trial and error .

There are only two wires so its not that bad of a problem .

Can't figure what difference it makes where the wires go.


Bob

[Purdy Swoft]

One way that the wires are connected , the brake light will work , the other way and the brake light won't work .

There is only one way that the brake light switch wires can be connected for the brake light to work .

[katy]

Can't figure what difference it makes where the wires go.

One wire goes to one terminal and the other wire goes to the other terminal, as simple as that. It's just an on-off switch, it connects the 2 terminals together and then disconnects them. No magic involved.

[Bob C]

That's what I though, so it doesn't matter which terminals the wires are on.

[rotorwrench]

It shouldn't matter, but if it's working at all then go with it until it doesn't. Some of the reproduction stuff leaves a lot to be desired. I can't speak for your switch but it should be able to connect either way.

[30 Closed Cab PU]

If they are LED lights, some are polarity sensitive.

[daren007]

???? Why should the wires care.

[Charlie Stephens]

Originally Posted by 30 Closed Cab PU

If they are LED lights, some are polarity sensitive.

Please explain what the location of the wires has to do with polarity?

Charlie Stephens

[Tom Wesenberg]

It doesn't matter which wire goes to each terminal.
The only time that matters is when using some of the bad repro switches that were sold.
They were so poorly made that one contact hit the case in the off position, so if the power wire connected to that terminal, the fuse would blow. Put the power wire on the other terminal, and you'd never know you had a junk switch. I've seen this twice on repro switches.

[Bill G]

Originally Posted by Charlie Stephens

Please explain what the location of the wires has to do with polarity?

Like you say; It has nothing to do with it. A switch just turns it on or off, no matter what polarity.

[Pat/Ohio]

I have been following this thread as I have what may be a brake switch or wiring problem with my 1930 Town Sedan (Briggs). I don't mean to hijack this thread. The brake switch is located outside the left frame rail. I don't have juice at either post on the switch. The wire coming into the switch (hot wire) comes from what source? I just bought this car and am new to Model A's. I haven't had a chance to trace the wire towards the hot source yet, just put it on the lift last evening.

I am assuming the hot wire is live all the time...the ignition switch doesn't need to be in the "on" position to check this?

Thanks in advance,
Pat

[Purdy Swoft]

All of the brake light switches that I've installed on 30-31 model A's have had to be connected one way only if they worked at all and it was trial and error.

All of my model A's now have all new color coded wiring harnesses and new repro brake light switches .

I know that the repro brake light switches are not the best .

If it didn't matter which wire was connected where , I don't believe that all of the model A brake light switches that I've installed had to have the wires reversed if the brake light didn't work .

I figure that someone else installed most of the model A brake light switches other than the present owners .

I feel that I am only wasting my time posting here .

[Charlie Stephens]

Originally Posted by Pat/Ohio

I have been following this thread as I have what may be a brake switch or wiring problem with my 1930 Town Sedan (Briggs). I don't mean to hijack this thread. The brake switch is located outside the left frame rail. I don't have juice at either post on the switch. The wire coming into the switch (hot wire) comes from what source? I just bought this car and am new to Model A's. I haven't had a chance to trace the wire towards the hot source yet, just put it on the lift last evening.

I am assuming the hot wire is live all the time...the ignition switch doesn't need to be in the "on" position to check this?

Thanks in advance,
Pat

If your switch is located outside of your left frame rail it is not original. The wire originally came from the wire bundle at the end of the steering column and went to a switch mounted on the frame crossmember. One side of the switch (it doesn't matter which) should be hot at all times. As a temporary fix you should be able to pick up live voltage anywhere. Your assumption that the hot wire should be live all of the time is correct. There is a wiring diagram in the "Instruction Book" that originally came with the car. These books are available from most suppliers for about $10. Be sure to get the one closest to when your car was manufactured.

Charlie Stephens

[Charlie Stephens]

duplicate post