first oil change - which oil?

[cederholm]

Hi guy, been driving my 1930 coupe around a lot this summer (bought it in the spring) and based on the color of the oil I feel it's time for a change.

What oil are you guys running and are you adding zinc to it? Preferably something I can pick up from a chain auto place.

Thanks,
Carl

[oldforder]

I use 15w40 oil like Rotella or similar, and it has plenty of zddp (if it even needs high zinc).
But then I am a newby to model A's also. But those who know have said that is a good, but not the only choice.

[AlexLohmann1]

I agree with using Shell Rotella T. Here are additional options and explanations.

WHAT TO USE?
There are still a few oils on the market that have adequate levels of ZDDP.

Shell Rotella T which is a conventional (mineral-based) oil that was originally formulated for diesel engines. Rotella T still contains 1,200 parts per million ZDDP, according to Shell – which is as much as five times the amount found in other oils. Don’t sweat it that Rotella was/is “for diesels.” It’s also an excellent choice for older, non-emissions controlled engines with flat tappet cams that need their ZDDP. Rotella’s also modestly priced and readily available at most any auto parts store. Shell also markets a synthetic version of Rotella that offers even more protection – as well as longevity and a 5W-40 viscosity for those who operate their vehicles in colder climates. Standard Rotella comes in a heavier 15W-40 blend.

Another choice – in a full synthetic – isAmsoil which carries a line of oils with ZDDP in popular viscosities such as 10W-40 and heavier 20W-50.

Redline oil is also still fine for older engines with flat tappet cams.Unfortunately, both Amsoil and Redline can be hard to find at your local store; but if you plan ahead, you can order a case from any one of multiple suppliers online and just keep a stash on hand.



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[WHN]

You are really brave asking this question!

In our 1929 with a rebuilt engine, that was done in the late sixties, but has under 10,000 miles on it. We use Walmart 20w-50 oil with one 16 oz. blue bottle of STP (zinc) as the last half quart. We change oil once a year or every 500 miles. Also we use Marvel Mystery Oil in the gas.

I have taken high mileage engines, that were making all kinds of noise, and done the same. Made a big difference.

[30 Closed Cab PU]

My preference too. Shell Rotella T4 15w40 no additives. Is a good oil, available Amazon, Walmart, many chain auto stores, farm supply stores (fleet Farm, Farm and Fleet, Tractor Supply, etc) - relatively inexpensive. Nice thing is that it is very available, easy to find if you are on the Road.


There are many excellent choices, almost any oil today is better than in the 30s, just change when it starts to get dark/black. Varies between 500 -2500 miles dependent on your type of use/driving, and if you have air/oil filters.

[30 Closed Cab PU]

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As far as gas and gas addivives, WHN raised this subject - I prefer Ethanol Free (especially at storage), and add Marvel Mystery Oil in the gas. Reports on the Barn say MMO reduces the occurrence of malfunction Float Seat/Valve which can cause gas coming out your carb air intake, is good for your gas shutoff valve, and provides motor upper end lubrication. I use about 4 oz. per 12 gallon tank, not sure what others use.


At Storage also like to fill tank about 3/4 full, allows for gas expansion, helps keep condensation, use Stabil 360 Marine, and drain the carb.


These are my preference - other may have other opinions.

[Y-Blockhead]

Originally Posted by 30 Closed Cab PU

There are many excellent choices, almost any oil today is better than in the 30s, just change when it starts to get dark/black. Varies between 500 -2500 miles dependent on your type of use/driving, and if you have air/oil filters.

Best Answer...

[cederholm]

Awesome! Thank you all. ..and MMO is the gas? I heard you could but never have. I'll give it a try.

~ Carl

[30 Closed Cab PU]

Originally Posted by cederholm

Awesome! Thank you all. ..and MMO is the gas? I heard you could but never have. I'll give it a try.

~ Carl

Yes the gas, for reasons posted above. Have heard some also put in the oil, do not remember why.

[J Franklin]

Originally Posted by WHN

You are really brave asking this question!

In our 1929 with a rebuilt engine, that was done in the late sixties, but has under 10,000 miles on it. We use Walmart 20w-50 oil with one 16 oz. blue bottle of STP (zinc) as the last half quart. We change oil once a year or every 500 miles. Also we use Marvel Mystery Oil in the gas.

I have taken high mileage engines, that were making all kinds of noise, and done the same. Made a big difference.

I like this answer but with a lower milage engine I prefer 10-30 or 10- 40 weight oil.

Photo of my car and my fathers car.

[JOHN CT]

I used Rotella 10/30 for 10,000 miles never had any problem. But It developed a lifter noise so I read here on the forum that some model A folk was using Mobile One synthetic oil with good results. So I changed to Mobile 1 lifter noise is gone and the oil is staying cleaner longer l change the oil now at 1000 miles instead of 500 miles

[JD 1931]

Walmart brand 20w 50w is what I use but the temp. here is always hot...

[copgib]

JD where on the west coast do you live? I live 35-miles southwest of Gainesville, Florida. Hugh

[rfitzpatrick]

Mobil One Synthetic High-Milage 10W/40. Changed every 500 miles/monthly.

[GerryAllen]

I use Mobil Delo 15-40 oil used in diesel motors, it very similar to the Shell Rotella. I have heard nothing but good things about the oil.

Gerry Birch Bay Wa.

[Licensed to kill]

Originally Posted by oldforder

I use 15w40 oil like Rotella or similar, and it has plenty of zddp (if it even needs high zinc).

Not any more. Rotella (as well as all the other HD diesel oils) haven't had the ZDDP levels required for flat tappet cams for about 7 or 8 years now. It was removed for environmental reasons just like all of the other engine oils before that. I believe that they will work (with out the earlier levels of zinc) in a model A because the model A does't have the valve spring pressure that most newer flat tapped engines do, especially with High performance cams/springs in them. Having said that, I use Rotella 15-40 in just about everything, including my Model A's but anything with a flat tappet cam gets a can of GM's EOS (engine oil supplement) at every oil change. It adds the ZDDP that flat tappets require.

[30 Closed Cab PU]

Hi Cederholm,


As WHN mentioned you are very brave. Oil is one of the subjects that creates a lot of discussion. If you search on the Barn there is a lot of past discussion of Oil, gas, and additives. If you search the Internet there is tons more.


My opinions as I understand things, and others will and should chime in.


Use of Thicker weight oils - for worn/tired engines that have ring blowby, leaky gaskets, noises.


Use of Lower weight oil - for colder/very cold climates, to help lubrication on cold starts.


Multi grade oil - Used instead of straight weight oil, improves lubrication during startup when engine is not warm, which is when most engine wear occurs. EX: 15w40 - the oil acts as a 15 straight weight oil at cold temps, and increases to a 40 straight weight oil when an engine is warm.


Detergent oil vs. Non detergent oil - Detergent oil's purpose is to suspend dirt/combustion byproducts in the oil so the dirt/byproducts can be filtered and/or drained from the motor. According to what I have read, detergent oil does not cause clumps/chunks of built up sludge to break loose which and clog up oil passages. etc.


STP - - for worn/noisy engines, actually modifies oil to a higher weight, and makes oil "stickier". Might also be used if the motor is being stored for very extended period to help keep internal motor parts lubed, I prefer not to use it, it is modifying the engineered characteristics of the oil.


Gas - I prefer Ethanol free. Ethanol free may be easier on seals/gaskets than ethanol blends. Ethanol blends are OK if not allowed to sit for extended periods, the ethanol separates out and can attract water in as little as 30-60 days. Higher octane gas is not required, in the 30s octane was I believe in the 50/60s. However most ethanol free gas these days is premium and is higher octane.


MMO - In Gas, especially if using ethanol blended gas - reduces carb float seat/valve and gasket /seal issues, good for fuel shutoffs valves, good for motor upper end lubrication.

- In oil - Not sure of benefits.


Lead substitute - Not needed. Lead was generally not added to gas until after Model As. Was added to gas for motors with higher compression and RPMs to aid reduction of upper end wear.


Zinc/ZDDP in oil - My belief is it is not needed for the Model A, Used to help valves/tappets/cam. The lower loads in a Model A do not require it. May want to use it on fresh rebuilt motors. However amount used should be calibrated to levels already in the oil being used. Too much Zinc/ZDDP is not a good thing, can not remember why.


Gas Stabilizer/ Gas Additives/water removal. Seafoam (and some others) is good for removing deposits (varnish, junk, etc.), but does nothing for water in your tank.


Check out this link which was sent to me by a Barn member in another post/string. And you can make your own conclusions.
http://www.fuel-testers.com/review_g..._products.html


This link is why I use Ethanol free gas, and occasionally add Seafoam. Fill tank 3/4 or so, drain the carb, and add Stabil 360 Marine when storing. I prefer to do as much as possible to keep water /condensation out of my tank.


After my recent problems which was self inflicted, I no longer use the last bit of gas in my gas can. Frequently rinse out the can with a little fresh gas, rinse again with a half can of Seafoam. Isopropyl Alcohol is a lot cheaper and can also be used. When rinsing I drained into a 2 liter soda bottle, let it sit, was amazed there was a 3/4 inch of something (water, ethanol?) at the bottom of the bottle and Seafoam on top. Then then filled the can with Stabil 360/gas. Also no longer leave the can open, put the caps back on immediately. - Yes am now paranoid.


I poked the bear, lets see what happens.

[oldforder]

I totally agree with everything you said, and I kinda know what I am talking about, as I have been a pro mechanic for 50+ years. Although I am a newby on Model A's, Gas and oil is pretty much the same for most everything. Especially the OLD stuff.

[Y-Blockhead]

Originally Posted by GerryAllen

I use Mobil Delo 15-40 oil used in diesel motors, it very similar to the Shell Rotella. I have heard nothing but good things about the oil.

Gerry Birch Bay Wa.

Hmmm, I thought DELO was a Chevron Oil...

[Licensed to kill]

Originally Posted by Y-Blockhead

Hmmm, I thought DELO was a Chevron Oil...

It is. DELO=Diesel Engine Lubricating Oil.