crank pulley removal

[rob63mess]

Hey Guys...I noticed that I have a chunk missing from the crank pulley on my 31 ccpu. What holds the pulley to the shaft and how do I remove it. As always....thanks.

[Tom Wesenberg]

The crank nut (bolt) on the front of the crankshaft is what holds it in place. You can unscrew it by using a socket or special bent wrench.

With the bolt out you still may have to fight the rope seal holding it tight.

[rob63mess]

Thanks Tom

[CarlG]

If you have the one piece crank pulley it gets a little more involved, especially if the engine is in the vehicle.

[Purdy Swoft]

If you still have the original ratchet nut, actually a bolt that holds the crankshaft pulley in place you will need a 1&3/8 socket and pull handle or an off set box end wrench. The ratchet nut can be a pain. The easiest way that I have found to remove the ratchet nut is to let the end of the pull handle or wrench rest on the drivers side of the frame and let the starter do the work. Just hit the starter button-pedal with the ignition switch off and it will spin the ratchet nut right off. As Carl said, if you've got the one piece pulley it will be more fun. With the one piece pulley the easiest way is to use a chisel and hammer or just a hammer and break the outer part of the pulley where the belt fits, spokes and all off. If you've got an original type one piece pulley, it will be made of cast iron and breaks easily. No worry about straining or breaking the crankshaft because the crankshaft on the model A is forged. Otherwise it will be necessary to remove the radiator, front spring U bolts, crank guide, accellerator assembly on the rear of the engine, remove the front motor mount yoke bolts, remove two of the rear motor mount to engine bolts and loosen the other two. Then you can place a piece of wood between a jack and the oil pan and proceed to carefully jack the engine up for clearance tro remove the pulley.

[Don/WI]

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Originally Posted by Purdy Swoft

If you still have the original ratchet nut, actually a bolt that holds the crankshaft pulley in place you will need a 1&3/8 socket and pull handle or an off set box end wrench. The ratchet nut can be a pain. The easiest way that I have found to remove the ratchet nut is to let the end of the pull handle or wrench rest on the drivers side of the frame and let the starter do the work. Just hit the starter button-pedal with the ignition switch off and it will spin the ratchet nut right off. As Carl said, if you've got the one piece pulley it will be more fun. With the one piece pulley the easiest way is to use a chisel and hammer or just a hammer and break the outer part of the pulley where the belt fits, spokes and all off. If you've got an original type one piece pulley, it will be made of cast iron and breaks easily. No worry about straining or breaking the crankshaft because the crankshaft on the model A is forged. Otherwise it will be necessary to remove the radiator, front spring U bolts, crank guide, accellerator assembly on the rear of the engine, remove the front motor mount yoke bolts, remove two of the rear motor mount to engine bolts and loosen the other two. Then you can place a piece of wood between a jack and the oil pan and proceed to carefully jack the engine up for clearance tro remove the pulley.

If you need to remove all of the things mentioned above to remove the pulley, don't they also need to be removed to put the new one in? Or am I missing something. I'm just asking because I never had to change one with the engine in the car. Don/WI

[rob63mess]

Doesn't sound like a fun chore at all.

[Purdy Swoft]

Originally Posted by Don/WI

If you need to remove all of the things mentioned above to remove the pulley, don't they also need to be removed to put the new one in? Or am I missing something. I'm just asking because I never had to change one with the engine in the car. Don/WI

Don, Yes, that is the procedure to remove a one piece crankshaft pulley intact . If the outer part of a one piece pulley is broken off, only the shank of the pulley that slips through the timing cover remains and all of the mentioned parts won't need to be removed. Just removing the shank of the crankshaft pulley doesn't require as much clearance for removal. This is the technique that Bud Winfield used when he demonstrated the ease of installing the Winfield vibration damper that replaced the original pulley . I've seen pictures and read this info in the Secrets of speed journal. I've never installed a Winfield vibration damper but have broken off damaged one piece crankshaft pulleys for ease of removal without having to remove so many parts. For replacement I would recommend a two piece pulley. New two piece crankshaft pulleys are pretty good now and are easier to remove and replace and require less removal of parts.

[Purdy Swoft]

Originally Posted by rob63mess

Doesn't sound like a fun chore at all.

It really isn't, I was just being facetious , but I hope that you get the picture. It can really be a dreaded ordeal !!!

[Don/WI]

Originally Posted by Purdy Swoft

It really isn't, I was just being facetious , but I hope that you get the picture. It can really be a dreaded ordeal !!!

Thanks for the information. I hope I never have the pleasure of needing to replace one, but I hope I remember you advice if the need ever arises. Don/WI

[rob63mess]

Thanks to all.

[hardtimes]

Hey Purdy,
Who is 'Bud' Winfield ?

[CarlG]

Hardtimes --- Are these still being made?

[Purdy Swoft]

Originally Posted by hardtimes

Hey Purdy,
Who is 'Bud' Winfield ?

Bud Winfield was Ed Winfields younger brother . If you look in some of the mid ninties Secrets of speed journals you will see Bud demonstrating Eds performance parts on model A's . Bud was usually smiling in most of the pics that I've seen . I believe that Bud was killed in an automobile accident around 1955 .

[Purdy Swoft]

Specialty Ford parts in Rosemead California may still sell a reproduction of the Winfield vibration damper.

[Bob/Kansas City]

I realize this is an old thread but for anyone needing to remove a crankshaft pulley be sure and read Purdy Swoft’s post. I broke my one piece crank pulley leaving only the hub and 1 3/8” crank nut. To get the nut broken loose I braced the wrench handle against the drivers side frame and just bumped the starter over and let it do the work. With one quick bump the nut loosened and was easy to remove along with the old pulley hub.
Many thanks to Purdy for his solution to the problem.

[Gene F]

Originally Posted by hardtimes

Hey Purdy,
Who is 'Bud' Winfield ?

Hardtimes, where did you get that? Does it also happen to have a timing mark on it?

[Paul Bjarnason]

I am still struggling to get the second part of a two-piece crank pulley off of my '29. It doesn't do you much good to have a two-piece if you can't get the second part off. Tonight, I will take off the timing cover and drop the pan to see if I can get more of a grip on the thing. I have a billet crank pulley to install, which I hope will not break, plus it has timing marks on it, which is a plus.

[katy]

Ifn the "second part" is cast iron you may be able to crack it in 2 w/a good bucking bar under it and a chisel on top. A blunt chisel may be better than a sharp one, to prevent damaging the crankshaft.

[old31]

I wonder how the Winfield crank pulley compares to the one being made overseas?