I opened a can of worms with this rear end

[Stingray70]

Ok guys, I need help. I posted recently about damage to the rear axle housing. We unanimously agreed that it needed to be fixed before my upcoming parkway trip.

I bought a repair sleeve and took the housing to a local machine shop. They really screwed things up.. Long story short, the housing wasn't true in the lathe and he machined the housing off center. Then installed the sleeve. It is so far off center, one can see it with the naked eye.

One option to fix this is to remove the sleeve, true up the housing and put on another sleeve. They will have to make a sleeve, since the ones from the vendors would have the wrong ID. What I need to know is what type of steel and what hardness of material would we need to make this? I assume the correct type/hardness is critical since the bearing rides on it?

Other option is for me to buy another housing. Any of you guys in NC or SC have a good one, or a rear end you would sell?

Thanks again guys

[Synchro909]

If the machinist screwed up fitting the first sleeve, I would have no confidence that he could machine it off again (quite hard steel), make another one, harden it and fit it correctly. IMO, you best bet is to find another housing and another machinist. If you want to do as you describe, I'd suggest a low carbon steel case hardened to about Rockwell C 65. I'm interested to hear what others say here too.

[nkaminar]

Best bet is to find another rear axle that is in good shape. I searched Craigs List in NC and SC and nothing was found. There are a couple of housings on ebay in Ohio.

[larrys40]

I just did a rear end for a guy in West Virginia and I know he had a spare housing as I sent it home with his when done. I’m sure he won’t need it. Let me know if you want it. It could be sent to you .
You’ll need a new housing. Don’t waste your time and money on another fix on what you have. It won’t turn out well.
Larry

[ronn]

a new used housing should be very cheap. I gave up a complete rear, brakes etc. to the scrapyard about 2 yrs ago for 20. iron.

nobody wtd it and couldnt leave it sit here indef.

[Stingray70]

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Larry, I just sent you a pm

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[Stingray70]

I have looked at a dozen housings yesterday. They all had the hole where the spring shackle inserts worn out, the shock link ball trashed, or the tube caved in from spring hitting it. I am sceptical of buying one and having it shipped only to find out it is in bad shape. So frustrating.

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[aermotor]

Check with Bert's. If they have one you can rest assured it is good. John

[Terry, NJ]

No one has a complete rear end set up? I sold one a few months ago for $400, that was every thing brakes, etc. the whole ball of wax. There's got to be a few around! Next! The housings and banjo are a precision assembly. Taking off even small amounts can be very disruptive to its operation. I'm a former Tool and Diemaker myself and I wouldn't trust anyone changing the dimensions. I've changed the gear sets in two rears and it's a lot of work and concentration just to fit these parts. My recommendation would be to grease it all up and wrap it in plastic garbage bags and put it somewhere out of the weather, get a replacement rear, preferably one with a 3.54 ratio, and replace the whole thing. I paid $120. for the last rear I bought. Good Luck!
Terry

PS. You might also try Vanderleys in Ottsvile Pa.

[Bud]

My Model A Club member Mike Bogart in Troy, OH, has sleeved rear axle housings before. He has a complete machine shop that is well equipped to handle this task. He also has axle housings. Call 937-335-9353 to discuss.

[BRENT in 10-uh-C]

Michael, I saw your email and you are on my list to call. Yes, I have one that I can restore.

From my experience with restoring these, it is likely that your machine shop did not have the proper fixtures to do the set-up. I locate the differential end of a fixture into a four-jaw chuck that I can center within 0.0005", ...which then allows me to index off of the gasket flange area where it locates into the Differential Housing. On the opposite end of the axle housing I use a large live-center to hold with however I sweep the step on the flange area of the Brake Housing Plate as my datum. I use shim stock off-center to adjust that flange to center. The issue with just using the hole in the end of the hub bearing race is that it is often not concentric with the Brake Housing Plate index. Using various pieces of shim stock between the live center and the hole in the end of the tube allows to move the end of the housing into centerline. At that time, you can machine for the new race.

FWIW, I can fix the housing they messed up. Just remove the race from the housing with a cut-off wheel, and then MIG-weld the off-set machined area by making multiple passes with the welder to add filler material. Set-up like mentioned above and then machine the filler weld to the correct size to hold a new bearing race.

Also, you must set-up and straighten the housings prior to doing machine work. I use heat and shrink the housing tube back into alignment. This does take time to do it properly but is worth the effort. Generally these axle housings get bent from misuse over the years of pulling stuff with a chain wrapped around the axle housing or running over stuff. Even running with radius rods loose or damaged can cause the housing to bend. FWIW, I also re-machine the flange that the brake housing plate bolts too, and I also straighten the shim gasket flange area area so the housing bolts onto the differential housing straight and the gasket seals well. To restore housings properly does take some time but is worth the effort when done correctly.


.

[Joe K]

On the opposite end of the axle housing I use a large live-center to hold with however I sweep the step on the flange area of the Brake Housing Plate as my datum.

Almost exactly how I machined my housing on the 1907 Flather Lathe.

On mine I found the circle for centering the backing plate was apparently machined using the "hole" as the center datum. So no "fixturing" required.

Carbide tooling was necessary to cut below the "hardening." Some early housings appear to have a hardened bushing installed, but this housing did not, any case hardening was applied to the base metal.

The new bushing is "tapered" at the end you put on first. Loctite Red used in my case (although the interference fit seems to wipe most of it off) Pressing on is not difficult (I used a 100W light bulb to heat the bushing) and then I used a 3/4 threaded rod and steel plates to "pull" the bushing into place. Now I would use the press.

Some have complained that hardened bushings available today are apparently "not." The test is can you cut the surface with a hand file.



Joe K

[BRENT in 10-uh-C]

Originally Posted by Joe K

On mine I found the circle for centering the backing plate was apparently machined using the "hole" as the center datum. So no "fixturing" required.

I feel you were lucky on yours to have it indicate directly off of the hole. I find most of them have holes that have been worn eccentric because of worn hub bearings allowing the axle shaft to ride and wear the hole. I would venture probably less than 20% of the housings that we restore can we get the housing to indicate in the area where the arrows are without using shim stock between the housing hole and the live center.

We use a induction heater to warm the new race to about 350°, and the race will drop right onto the machined portion of the housing without the need for hammers nor threaded rod to pull it on. When allowed to cool, the interference fit then solidly clamps the race to the housing.

[Synchro909]

Then there is my conversion using modern NU1010 roller bearings. If you're interested and send me your email address, I can send you an article I wrote about it a while ago for the other side.

[Stingray70]

Great info guys. That's just what I was looking for. I think I have a plan now and hopefully can get this put together in time for our trip. I feel like I am in one of those reality TV shows where there is always a time crunch.

[Wandi Harry]

Originally Posted by Synchro909

Then there is my conversion using modern NU1010 roller bearings. If you're interested and send me your email address, I can send you an article I wrote about it a while ago for the other side.

HI Synchro
Are you able to post up the article on this thread?
I cant pm you ,not enough posts

[Bob Bidonde]

A martensitic stainless steel is best suited for a bearing race, and in particular SAE 52100 (Hardness about RC58 - RC62). Also consider having the job passivated.

[Seabees]

I have several, but I'm in Oregon. Dang.

[rotorwrench]

The NU1010 bearing conversion is more common in the Australia-New Zealand part of the world due to difficulty getting parts. This thread illustrates the parts and work involved. I've also seen other wide needle bearing and ball bearing conversions. Many are for the V8 banjo axles but it can be done for the model A and B axles as well.
https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showt...highlight=axle

Getting good hub bearings seems to be getting more difficult as time goes by.

[john charlton]

Be aware there is a change of dimension of the housing ,check page 151 of the service bulletins . Both housings should have the same dimension spec or you will have problems setting up the 16 inch pounds diff carrier preload . An expert like Brent would easily do it but I like to start with a matched pair . It is "Sods Law " that the housing with the good race will have a bad perch and viser versa . The perch is an easy fix ,as half the spring bush is missing the part bush is easy to knock out . I fit a new bush and MIG it in place not pretty but does the job . The bush will never wear out in your life time if greased as usual . I have never had to ream a bush for the shackle pin to fit . I have 19 axle housings in my garage the only good one I sold .

John in heavy rain as usual Suffolk County England .