The Ford Barn

Chuck Sea/Tac · 02-14-2017, 02:21 PM

I recently picked up an engine with the Babbitt and crank set up for full oil, angle drilled from mains to rods. The crank is an early beaver style and it's .030/.030 what are your thoughts on this crank, and in this application? I've heard both, it's to light and vibrates at higher rpm, and this is sought after by hot riders because it's narrower and lighter. Would just be used as a normal driver, stock cam and head. Tia

Kahuna · 02-14-2017, 04:09 PM

Tia
You've got a winner there. IMO, the best you could have, for both std touring/driving &
able to be used for a more powerful engine.
You've got it all
Jim

Tom Wesenberg · 02-14-2017, 06:12 PM

Need more information and pictures on how it was set up for full pressure oiling.
If it was done right, and the fittings will stay in place, then I don't see any problem.

SteveB31 · 02-14-2017, 09:03 PM

Kahuna Jim---- why do you feel the early crankshaft is better?

Ron in Quincy · 02-14-2017, 09:49 PM

The beaver Tail Crankshaft is a Forging, only a Billet Crankshaft would be better. I believe I am correct ?, if not let me know !!!!

Ron

Chuck Sea/Tac · 02-14-2017, 10:11 PM

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Tom: The block hasn't been piped yet. Only the lower end and crank are done.

Jim Brierley · 02-15-2017, 11:52 AM

Ron in Quincy, all A,B & C cranks are forged, as are very early V8 cranks. Pressure oiling is not needed for general use, and has some problems in conjunction with it.

George Miller · 02-15-2017, 03:11 PM

If I was you I would not drill the crank unless you are going to race it. When you angle drill the rod journals, you weaken them. Number 4 likes to break anyway if you push it to high RPMS. I have done a few and I have broke a couple of cranks at number 4, Of course that was running it very hard at hill climbs. I no longer angle drill. You do not need pressure oiling for a driver.

02-14-2017, 02:21 PM	#1
Chuck Sea/Tac Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Between Seattle & Tacoma Posts: 2,354	Beaver crank I recently picked up an engine with the Babbitt and crank set up for full oil, angle drilled from mains to rods. The crank is an early beaver style and it's .030/.030 what are your thoughts on this crank, and in this application? I've heard both, it's to light and vibrates at higher rpm, and this is sought after by hot riders because it's narrower and lighter. Would just be used as a normal driver, stock cam and head. Tia

02-14-2017, 04:09 PM	#2
Kahuna Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: NorCal Posts: 2,617	Re: Beaver crank Tia You've got a winner there. IMO, the best you could have, for both std touring/driving & able to be used for a more powerful engine. You've got it all Jim

02-14-2017, 06:12 PM	#3
Tom Wesenberg Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Mpls, MN Posts: 27,582	Re: Beaver crank Need more information and pictures on how it was set up for full pressure oiling. If it was done right, and the fittings will stay in place, then I don't see any problem.

02-14-2017, 09:03 PM	#4
SteveB31 Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Englewood, Colorado Posts: 1,372	Re: Beaver crank Kahuna Jim---- why do you feel the early crankshaft is better?

02-14-2017, 09:49 PM	#5
Ron in Quincy Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Quincy, CA. Posts: 1,708	Re: Beaver crank The beaver Tail Crankshaft is a Forging, only a Billet Crankshaft would be better. I believe I am correct ?, if not let me know !!!! Ron

02-14-2017, 10:11 PM	#6
Chuck Sea/Tac Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Between Seattle & Tacoma Posts: 2,354	Re: Beaver crank Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements) Tom: The block hasn't been piped yet. Only the lower end and crank are done.

02-15-2017, 11:52 AM	#7
Jim Brierley Senior Member Join Date: Jun 2010 Location: Temecula, CA Posts: 4,085	Re: Beaver crank Ron in Quincy, all A,B & C cranks are forged, as are very early V8 cranks. Pressure oiling is not needed for general use, and has some problems in conjunction with it.

02-15-2017, 03:11 PM	#8
George Miller Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: NC Posts: 2,975	Re: Beaver crank If I was you I would not drill the crank unless you are going to race it. When you angle drill the rod journals, you weaken them. Number 4 likes to break anyway if you push it to high RPMS. I have done a few and I have broke a couple of cranks at number 4, Of course that was running it very hard at hill climbs. I no longer angle drill. You do not need pressure oiling for a driver.