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Old 06-21-2018, 04:54 PM   #1
37Flat
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Default Distributor Upgrade

I have an eggshell type distributor from my 221 and a 45-48 "V" distributor I bought for my original block that turned out to be a boat anchor. Question is, what would be the advantages/disadvantages of changing from the original eggshell to the "V"? I saw Van Pelt has an adapter and it got me to thinking.

Thanks for all input.
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Old 06-21-2018, 05:17 PM   #2
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Default Re: Distributor Upgrade

Only four advantages that ai know of:
1 - The project will keep you in the garage away from wife and kids for a while.
2 - The 11A timing curve is a little better than the 68.
3 - Slightly better clearance for the radiator, if you also have a 59 series block.
4 - Allows the use of a modern coil, and a better location for cooling.

The disadvantages I know of:
1 - The above mentioned added clearance doesn't apply if you need the spacer instead of the timing cover.
2 - Likely will need new plug wires.
3 - takes you that much farther away from being stock.
4 - Looks dumb.
5 - The 11A plate can replace the 68 plate without all the fuss.
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Old 06-21-2018, 05:59 PM   #3
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Default Re: Distributor Upgrade

Good to know. If I do switch, it'll be with the 11A plate.
Thanks Alan.
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Old 06-22-2018, 09:36 AM   #4
Mike in AZ
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Default Re: Distributor Upgrade

And you could modify V to crab. Mike
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Old 06-22-2018, 12:13 PM   #5
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Default Re: Distributor Upgrade

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Originally Posted by Mike in AZ View Post
And you could modify V to crab. Mike
Are we talking a cap change from V to crab, or a more intense modification?
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Old 06-22-2018, 12:53 PM   #6
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Default Re: Distributor Upgrade

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To make the V or rabbit ear distributor into the earlier crab distributor, the cap, rotor, and cap holding hardware needs to be changed. Also, to make the crab version less likely to get moisture inside cap, you could add a thin gasket between cap and distributor housing, and add rubber boots at each spark plug wire entry on the crab cap. I prefer working with the crab version rather than the rabbit ear.
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Old 06-22-2018, 03:06 PM   #7
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Default Re: Distributor Upgrade

Quote:
Originally Posted by ford38v8 View Post
Only four advantages that ai know of:
1 - The project will keep you in the garage away from wife and kids for a while.
2 - The 11A timing curve is a little better than the 68.
3 - Slightly better clearance for the radiator, if you also have a 59 series block.
4 - Allows the use of a modern coil, and a better location for cooling.

The disadvantages I know of:
1 - The above mentioned added clearance doesn't apply if you need the spacer instead of the timing cover.
2 - Likely will need new plug wires.
3 - takes you that much farther away from being stock.
4 - Looks dumb.
5 - The 11A plate can replace the 68 plate without all the fuss.
Ok, the more I research this, the less I understand. According to the Ford Bible, the Eggshell is an 11A, the Crab is a 21A and the Rabbit is a 59A. What's a 68?
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Old 06-22-2018, 09:42 PM   #8
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Default Re: Distributor Upgrade

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Originally Posted by JM 35 Sedan View Post
"I prefer working with the crab version rather that the rabbit ear."
Amen to that!! I used to think that the caps for the helmet distributors with the 4 wires were difficult. With the rabbit ears, you have to cram 9 wires (8 spark plug and 1 coil wire) into a cap which is only slightly larger than the helmet caps.
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Old 06-23-2018, 01:30 AM   #9
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Default Re: Distributor Upgrade

I think there is too much info. A early helmet dual point dizzy is a fine dizzy. A crab type dizzy is a fine upgrade.
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Old 06-23-2018, 06:41 AM   #10
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Default Re: Distributor Upgrade

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Originally Posted by 37Flat View Post
What's a 68?
I know the answer to that one, but I ain't writing it here.
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Old 06-23-2018, 09:30 AM   #11
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Default Re: Distributor Upgrade

There are several versions of the "Divers Helmet" distributor with the 1941 (11A being the last of the design. The replacement advance weight set for all is the 11A set from the 1941 distributor. The crab types have it too. For years in the late 60s to the early 80s, the V shaped two piece cap for the post war models was not available at local parts stores so folks had to convert them. It makes for a more compact package and some folks use the can type coils with them. The two piece set up was developed for wartime use since it sealed better in bad weather operations. They just continued using it after the war. Now days, the parts are available for all of the early Ford distributors.


Fords numbering system for models & parts was always evolving. The first digit was the year after 1935 and the second digit related to the type of engine. A letter A, B, etc. after the year & engine designator was a major design change designator. A suffix letter indicated a minor design change. There are no hard and fast rules on this system so there are plenty of exceptions. 68 was the model number for 1936 V8 cars. As engines were added the engine designator changed to more of a code. 21A is a 1942 part with a 221 85 HP engine designator. The A means it was either the 1st or second production part depending on year of manufacture. 29A was the 1942 year used with a 239 engine. Most folk figure it to be Mercury only but a lot of 239 engines were installed in trucks and in some special cases they were available for Ford cars like Police cars. As an option in a Ford car it is rare since they were only added as optional in a limited number of year models.

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Old 06-23-2018, 10:34 AM   #12
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Default Re: Distributor Upgrade

Thanks for all of the info. It really helps.
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Old 06-23-2018, 10:22 PM   #13
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Default Re: Distributor Upgrade

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Originally Posted by Mart View Post
I know the answer to that one, but I ain't writing it here.




You're talking about 69, not 68. LOL
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Old 06-23-2018, 11:45 PM   #14
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Default Re: Distributor Upgrade

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You're talking about 69, not 68. LOL
No, Lawson, He's gonna owe you one.
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