New at this. 1930 Model A 3 window Murray

[Jwilli]

It appears to be a Murray Town Sedan.

[Dick Carne]

What you have posted would seem to be a very reasonable price from what I could tell from the pictures. As others have said, a lot depends on what your intentions are for the use of a new acquisition, but from the pictures and the care that appears to have been taken in putting it into this condition by someone earlier, I think that I might be willing to take a chance. There will always be something that could be better, but if you are looking for a nice driving car, this would appear to meet that criteria. I've seen complete but non-running cars that needed virtually everything go for roughly half of what the sellers are asking; but even with this car, I feel certain that there will be things that will become apparent soon after you might acquire this old gentleman. But that would be the case with probably ninety percent of the cars out there. However, I would think that your risk of exposure here might be somewhat minimal. Good luck to you, whatever decision you might make.

[mike657894]

there is a ton of work to do on cars that look nice but have a little rust. look at the shackles on the front and rear springs are they sitting perfect in there? if they look off center they will need replacing. I have a 45er car and have been working away at and contemplating which way the rebuild will go when she starts to let go. is there 4 working round type shocks that is 1600 or so in parts and a lot of cars are just missing all 4. Are you set on a four door? because for the 10 k price i see cars here in michigan that are nice no rust roadsters and coupes and tudors. the best advice i could give is to look at a ton of different cars before you buy one.

[kyleskott]

Originally Posted by Dick Carne

What you have posted would seem to be a very reasonable price from what I could tell from the pictures. As others have said, a lot depends on what your intentions are for the use of a new acquisition, but from the pictures and the care that appears to have been taken in putting it into this condition by someone earlier, I think that I might be willing to take a chance. There will always be something that could be better, but if you are looking for a nice driving car, this would appear to meet that criteria. I've seen complete but non-running cars that needed virtually everything go for roughly half of what the sellers are asking; but even with this car, I feel certain that there will be things that will become apparent soon after you might acquire this old gentleman. But that would be the case with probably ninety percent of the cars out there. However, I would think that your risk of exposure here might be somewhat minimal. Good luck to you, whatever decision you might make.

Thank you

[kyleskott]

Originally Posted by mike657894

there is a ton of work to do on cars that look nice but have a little rust. look at the shackles on the front and rear springs are they sitting perfect in there? if they look off center they will need replacing. I have a 45er car and have been working away at and contemplating which way the rebuild will go when she starts to let go. is there 4 working round type shocks that is 1600 or so in parts and a lot of cars are just missing all 4. Are you set on a four door? because for the 10 k price i see cars here in michigan that are nice no rust roadsters and coupes and tudors. the best advice i could give is to look at a ton of different cars before you buy one.

Thank you

[Y-Blockhead]

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As it has been mentioned, a Town Sedan has a lot of WOOD in the body and doors so check it closely.


That being said, I love my Town Sedan for all it's roominess and comfort. Mine is a Briggs which has slightly wider front doors than the Murray Body so it is a little easier to get my big a$$ feet into.

A lot of good advice writen above.

[kyleskott]

Went to go see it. Looked pretty good. No says. Inside looked very clean.
Engine pretty clean, converted to have an alternator.
It only gets up to about 40mph and you feel a bit of a bogging down of the engine. How bad is that? Some vibration but you can definitely speak without talking loud at all.
A couple of minor rust spots. Springs felt good.
Big thing I saw was the front grill seemed to be from a different year. The Ford insignia didn't line up perfectly. Will try to include pic
Any more advice or suggestions on what I should give as a bid is appreciated.

[kyleskott]

Some more pics

[1930artdeco]

If the car gets up to 45 and drops after that then the engine has issues (timing, low compression, carb etc.). They should be able to do at least 50-55 easily with a good rebuild. If done correctly they should be able to do 60-65.

Without a head on shot, I can't tell if the rock guard is off or not. the radiator shroud can be changed out easily. Mine is a 30 but dad put on a 31 shroud.

Mike

[Y-Blockhead]

The "Grill" is an aftermarket accessory item. It appears to be for a '31, not your early '30 (refer to the first picture in post #8). The emblems are in different locations between the two years on the radiator shell so it does not line up.

[kyleskott]

Any ideas to what I should offer? The asking was $10,500. Thanks!

[larrys40]

Kyle,
If you haven't bought it you are at a good point right now... let me explain, as you have options.

I've worked on many Model A's for folks and many if not most of them require some major chassis and driveline work to bring them up to snuff. Getting done with a roadster this week and of course the rear axle was broke but it started as that and went to trans, brakes shot, front end, steering, electrical, distributor, carb, and more.

You can see it quickly adds up and before long your at 4K,5K,8K and more.
I haven't seen any underhood pics ( maybe I missed them) and so I know you could probably throw 5K easy at that car to bring it up to snuff.

You have the choice here to keep looking at other options, and drive them.
Taking into your budget.... and what it might cost to put that car or something else into shape you will probably spend more in the 14-16 range to be there. Maybe more if you don't do your own work... And I would say at this point that you would need expert help.

Each one you drive you gain experience and learn. Some drive well, some terrible. The worst "A" I ever drove was a "restored" car someone was selling.
I bought it, but fixed it, and it was then awesome afterwards.

Paint of course is incorrect for that car. that's a factor, I'm sure mechanicals are NOT top notch and will need work.

- With wheels straight ahead, how much steering play is there? If over an inch will need work.

-Look at front brake levers from the side of the wheels, is the lever forward or almost straight. if straight its not a good sign. are the rear brake lever arms loose in the bushings. How does it stop. Screech or slow stop?

-Engine noisy-listen for knocking sounds.

You get the idea.. lots of potential issues and for a novice it can be aggravating and expensive. In my opinion I would go look at as many as you can and you will gain some knowledge doing so. Read Les Andrews mechanical books for an overview and other Model A books like the old "How to Restore your Model A Series".. etc
You will understand how much work it takes to "Restore" one properly and then know what you are looking at.

As Kevin notes many times in his post it's amazing that a well restored car can and will perform at 55-60. Many times guys are afraid past 40 or 45. Too bad as in todays traffic and roads it requires speeds, stopping, and performance at speeds more than that... and you would want you car to be able to and should handle it.

10, 500... I think that's just the beginning. It's probably a $7,500 car in my opinion that is going to require much more to be roadable. And.. as noted the wood is major factor in a 4-door. But then I would make another selection if I was looking. Look at others, don't get hung up on this one, drive, learn, get someone local who is really schooled at "A"'s mechanically to go look at one with you. I do that all the time for guys and wish many had done so before they bought.
Larry Shepard

[kyleskott]

Thank you for taking the time for all of that. Brakes seemed good, engine looked pretty clean and was told the head gasket was replaced last year. Steering was too tight, but like you said, I would need to try another since without power its going to feel tight.
Suspension again seemed solid.
The paint I don't have any info on besides that I like what was chosen, but know well that it's probably not a stock color. The wood looked solid and actually replaced in the cab: no sagging doors, running boards straight, etc...
I'm just curious if its a carb issue or even the timing adjustment on the steering column that could make it faster and not necessarily and engine "issue", but I need an expert for that. Any Long Islanders out here that can help? Thanks again!!!

[Drive Shaft Dave]

Maybe the owner would do a compression test on it for you. The timing would be easy enough to check.

[mike657894]

my car would go 46 with a blown head gasket per gps. I havent clocked a top speed run since fixing it up. so if it goes only 40 I would worry. it may need more than just a head gasket. my car was free. It was fix it and make grandpa proud or hot rod it and be disowned. If I was buying I would want a a1 engine in it.

[700rpm]

...

[Ernie Vitucci]

Good afternoon...It would be best to speak to the two national clubs and find the closest club to you. Call the President and ask who does most of the serious repair work for the club. If possible, take that person with you to look at the car and also inspect/drive any similar cars that club members might have for sale. A good Model 'A' repair person can drive it with you and make you a list of obvious problems and estimate the cost of repairs to get the car to a good, safe, reliable state to enjoy. If you can watch he/she do the work, you will learn a great deal...Ernie

[TerryH]

Ernie.....probably the best and friendliest advice given; someone not familiar with all the nuances of a Model A best served with an experienced, helpful owner.....

[larrys40]

Originally Posted by Ernie Vitucci

Good afternoon...It would be best to speak to the two national clubs and find the closest club to you. Call the President and ask who does most of the serious repair work for the club. If possible, take that person with you to look at the car and also inspect/drive any similar cars that club members might have for sale. A good Model 'A' repair person can drive it with you and make you a list of obvious problems and estimate the cost of repairs to get the car to a good, safe, reliable state to enjoy. If you can watch he/she do the work, you will learn a great deal...Ernie

Ernie,
very well stated and excellent advice to him. I've had guys fly me to places to inspect a car... good thing. Some worked out, some didn't.

Larry Shepard

[kyleskott]

Originally Posted by Ernie Vitucci

Good afternoon...It would be best to speak to the two national clubs and find the closest club to you. Call the President and ask who does most of the serious repair work for the club. If possible, take that person with you to look at the car and also inspect/drive any similar cars that club members might have for sale. A good Model 'A' repair person can drive it with you and make you a list of obvious problems and estimate the cost of repairs to get the car to a good, safe, reliable state to enjoy. If you can watch he/she do the work, you will learn a great deal...Ernie

Thank you for the helpful advice. As you can see I'm trying to make a wise decision and not a quick one. Even though someone says its restored, that can mean many things. I know of MAFCA, what is the 2nd club you are referring too? And if anyone knows of a knowledgeable person on Long Island I'd be happy to take the reference. Thank you all for the help.