clutch fork

[Beater]

just getting things ripped apart for rebuilding, today was take the clutch fork off and get the shaft out of the housing to re bush things. fork was shot, brazed up sometime in the past. no prob I have a couple in the parts department. the one im pulling apart I have no idea on year, but the parts pile one came off a 31 coup. the one off the coup the fork and arm have no half moon key just pined to shaft. the one im working on is pinned and keyed. im new to this stuff but wondered for sure which is early which is late?

[Tom Endy]

Attached article may be of help with your project. It appears you have the early version of the clutch shaft assembly that used woodruff keys and a smaller pin. There is a Ford service bulletin that describes the change, which I have believed for years is incorrect. I suspect the service engineer that wrote it got the two part numbers for the arm and the fork reversed.

I believe the change was to reduce manufacturing costs.

When ever I restore a bell housing I install the later clutch shaft because they are much cheaper than the ones with the woodruff key. Bratton's is the only supplier that I know of that carries the early shaft. I do not use the early arm and fork, I discard them and use the later ones. There is still plenty of them around.

For my own use, and if a customer wants one, I install the after market arm that is slightly longer for better clutch action and is constructed such that the traditional cracking around the pin hole cannot happen. Most suppliers carry it.

When you go to ream the bell housing bushings, if reaming is required, make sure you use a reamer that goes through both bushings at the same time.

Years ago when I restored my first bell housing, I followed someone's advice to make a hone from a wooden dowel. Slot it and slip strips of emery paper in the slot and use a drill motor. After spending half a day honing the two bushings, I could get the new shaft into each end, but not through both.

Tom Endy

[DD931]

Tom - please comment about installing grease fittings in the bell housing at the ends of the clutch shaft. Otherwise, how do you grease/lubricate those bushings? The pedals have grease fittings.

[Beater]

while on this subject, because this is obviously a very early bellhousing, is there any difference between early and late bellhouse?

as to grease zerks these pedals do not have any. I will drill and put some in when I get to restoreing those.

I also will drill holes and install zerks to be able to grease clutch shaft

[Tom Endy]

Originally Posted by Beater

while on this subject, because this is obviously a very early bellhousing, is there any difference between early and late bellhouse?

as to grease zerks these pedals do not have any. I will drill and put some in when I get to restoreing those.

I also will drill holes and install zerks to be able to grease clutch shaft

The very early cars that used the multi-disk clutch had a different bell housing. The pedals for this bell housing did not have bushings, and the clutch shaft was a smaller diameter. Pedals did not have grease fittings until they were introduced in 1931, a service bulletin indicated that Ford dealers will install them on earlier cars for a small fee.

I am not sure about grease fittings for the bell housing bushings. I have seen them on some bell housings, but they could have been added. I don't see a need for grease fittings for any of the bell housings and pedal bushings. You will probably never wear the new bushings out. I give them a shot of oil each time I grease the car.

Tom Endy

[Beater]

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well this is the second set of pedals ive re bushed and both sets were wore out very bad bushings completely gone on one side so they do get wore out

[CWPASADENA]

I install grease fittings for the clutch fork cross shaft bushings. When I grease them, I just add a very little grease, it does not take much.


Chris W.

[Synchro909]

Originally Posted by CWPASADENA

I install grease fittings for the clutch fork cross shaft bushings. When I grease them, I just add a very little grease, it does not take much.


Chris W.

Ditto but I do the same on the pedals too. I want to get as much as I can out of the pedal bushes because they are not available unless we use a gudgeon bush and they are a PITA to reem.

[Beater]

Originally Posted by Synchro909

Ditto but I do the same on the pedals too. I want to get as much as I can out of the pedal bushes because they are not available unless we use a gudgeon bush and they are a PITA to reem.

n
bushings not available? I just got some same size as the clutch fork shaft did them all at once

[Synchro909]

Originally Posted by Beater

n
bushings not available? I just got some same size as the clutch fork shaft did them all at once

What diameter is the clutch fork shaft - I can't remember but the only bushes available from the vendors that will fit the pedal shaft are gudgeon bushes and like I said, they are a real PITA to ream.

[DD931]

Synchro - Both Bratton's and Snyder's have the right ones, but I don't know how to get them down under!!

[Beater]

Originally Posted by Synchro909

What diameter is the clutch fork shaft - I can't remember but the only bushes available from the vendors that will fit the pedal shaft are gudgeon bushes and like I said, they are a real PITA to ream.

I do not know the size but I do know they are the same as I just did a set. I use a ball hone and clean thinkgs up and installed new busshings. wasn't hard at all

[Tom Endy]

I have been using Bratton's bell housing\pedal bushings for years without a problem. They fit tight in the housing and the pedals. Some bushings from other suppliers do not fit tight and when you go to ream them the bushings twist right out. I use a bushing driver tool and drive the bushings into the bell housing with a hammer. For the pedals I use a shop press. I have a plate that has a machined recess and a hole in it that I set the pedal on. I use the same bushing driver tool and press the bushings in with the press.

For reaming I have a reamer I bought from Bratton's years ago that is long enough to ream both bell housing bushings in line. I use the same reamer on the pedal bushings with the pedals clamped in a vice.

When installing bushings in pedals that have grease fittings I grind a "V" into one side of each pair of bushings with a grinding wheel. When installing I line the two "V"s up so they install right over the grease fitting hole, otherwise you will have difficulty getting grease between the bushing and the shaft. You can also grind a little material off each side of the two bushings to provide a path for grease to enter.

The later pedals that came with factory grease fittings use a wavy washer between the two pedals. I think the purpose was to aid in getting grease into the area. I use a wavy washer on all the restorations I do. You can add extra wavy washers if there is too much thrust clearance.

When adding grease fittings to each side of the bell housing to grease the clutch shaft you might find it difficult to get any grease in there because the shaft is blocking the grease fitting. When the shaft and the bushing get worn enough it will be easier to get the grease in with the increased clearance.

Tom Endy

[Synchro909]

The reason I'm saying bushes are not available is because the pedal shaft you guys use is 7/8" diameter while ours is 1". The bushes the vendors sell won't do so we have to improvise by using gudgeon bushes.

[Beater]

Originally Posted by Tom Endy

I have been using Bratton's bell housing\pedal bushings for years without a problem. They fit tight in the housing and the pedals. Some bushings from other suppliers do not fit tight and when you go to ream them the bushings twist right out. I use a bushing driver tool and drive the bushings into the bell housing with a hammer. For the pedals I use a shop press. I have a plate that has a machined recess and a hole in it that I set the pedal on. I use the same bushing driver tool and press the bushings in with the press.

For reaming I have a reamer I bought from Bratton's years ago that is long enough to ream both bell housing bushings in line. I use the same reamer on the pedal bushings with the pedals clamped in a vice.

When installing bushings in pedals that have grease fittings I grind a "V" into one side of each pair of bushings with a grinding wheel. When installing I line the two "V"s up so they install right over the grease fitting hole, otherwise you will have difficulty getting grease between the bushing and the shaft. You can also grind a little material off each side of the two bushings to provide a path for grease to enter.

The later pedals that came with factory grease fittings use a wavy washer between the two pedals. I think the purpose was to aid in getting grease into the area. I use a wavy washer on all the restorations I do. You can add extra wavy washers if there is too much thrust clearance.

When adding grease fittings to each side of the bell housing to grease the clutch shaft you might find it difficult to get any grease in there because the shaft is blocking the grease fitting. When the shaft and the bushing get worn enough it will be easier to get the grease in with the increased clearance.

Tom Endy

prity much what I did, except for one thing. I gut a small groove in the clutch pedel shaft with my lathe in 2 places on ea ends where they are in the bushing and line up with the zerk

[DD931]

I ordered new shafts from Bratton's. They are too large in diameter. I tried driving the pedal shaft into the bell housing with no luck. It only went part way before seizing. I'm now faced with figuring how to get it back out! I don't want to use the old one because of wear at the critical points. Same diameter problem with the throw out bearing shaft. Happily, I am able to use the original. Does anyone know where to find a shaft that fits properly?

[Synchro909]

Originally Posted by DD931

I ordered new shafts from Bratton's. They are too large in diameter. I tried driving the pedal shaft into the bell housing with no luck. It only went part way before seizing. I'm now faced with figuring how to get it back out! I don't want to use the old one because of wear at the critical points. Same diameter problem with the throw out bearing shaft. Happily, I am able to use the original. Does anyone know where to find a shaft that fits properly?

Ditto that. No one sells a pedal shaft AT ALL. Bushes either!

[updraught]

Originally Posted by Synchro909

Ditto that. No one sells a pedal shaft AT ALL. Bushes either!

1928-31 RHD Pedal Shaft A-7506-RH

1 inch diameter pedal shaft for the 1928-31 Right Hand Drive Model A Ford.
There are no specific bushes available for the RHD shaft, but the A-6207 piston con rod bushes can be used, with a small amount of reaming. 4 bushes are required.
Price: £9.96 (£11.95 Incl. vat)

https://www.oneillvintageford.co.uk/..._A_Pedals.html

[Beater]

I just went to my local dealer, George moir in Edmonton alberta, got shafts, bushings. came home took the old ones out and put all the new stuff in. I cleaned up the holes with a 1" ball hone.was done in an hour. things must be diferent size I guess in AUS?

bushings are the same for the pedals. im 99% sure all this stuff comes from sniders. ill find the bacgs with the part numbers if I haven't taken the garbage out yet

[Synchro909]

Originally Posted by Beater

I just went to my local dealer, George moir in Edmonton alberta, got shafts, bushings. came home took the old ones out and put all the new stuff in. I cleaned up the holes with a 1" ball hone.was done in an hour. things must be diferent size I guess in AUS?

bushings are the same for the pedals. im 99% sure all this stuff comes from sniders. ill find the bacgs with the part numbers if I haven't taken the garbage out yet

The pedal shaft is 1" diameter on all RHD Model As. Ford will have had to make it larger after the 7/8" shafts bent when the brake pedal was jumped on, like in an emergency stop.