The Ford Barn

Rich Largent · 09-23-2010, 06:59 PM

I'm the fellow who posted "mine won't start either" and thanks to so many of you taking the time to counsel this newbie Model A'r I got her running today. Seems as though it was gas problem and possibly fuel/air thing as it took flooring the accelerator to get it to light. Once lit it runs quite smoothly but does not have a steady idle. I haven't fooled with the idle air screw (currently 1-1/2 turns out from all in), only with the idle screw on the throttle shaft. Although it appears tight I see some gas seepage at start up around the throtle shaft. This disappears as the engine warms up. Any suggestions for fine tuning the idle?

Big D · 09-23-2010, 07:10 PM

Not sure about smoothly idle or for that matter if you should even try to adjust it until you clean it. I use to have same issue every few months, but after I started putting Sta-Fuel (or Blue Sta-Fuel for Alcohol added fuels) in the fuel. Now it can sit all winter and starts right up. Good Luck.

D

Tom Wesenberg · 09-23-2010, 07:10 PM

How long do you crank with the choke pulled? On my car I hit the starter then pull and release the choe and it fires right off. If the engine is warm no choke is used. I turn the gas adjustment knob about a turn open when cold, and close it after a minute.

Karl · 09-23-2010, 07:27 PM

Inlet manifold leak or throttle shaft leak will give a lumpy idle . Karl

Mike V. Florida · 09-23-2010, 11:48 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Rich Largent

Any suggestions for fine tuning the idle?

simple,

Turn in screw until the car wants to stall. Turn out the screw, counting the turns until the car wants to stall. Screw back in 1/2 the number you turned out.

J Franklin · 09-24-2010, 01:20 AM

Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements)

Idle with the distributer retarded give the smoothest idle.

Special Coupe Frank · 09-24-2010, 07:04 AM

I'll second Tom's comment about careful use of the choke; it doesn't take much to flood an up-draft carb.

Starting with a stone-cold engine, I pull the hand throttle down until I see/feel the accelerator pedal move about 1/4" towards the floor. Then I open the gas knob about 1 turn, then pull the choke all the way and hold. Step on the starter. As soon as the engine fires / coughs, I release the choke knob and make sure it is all the way in. Usually, the engine fires within 3 to 5 grunts of the starter.

J Franklin · 09-24-2010, 11:24 AM

you only need to choke for 1 or 2 revolutions at the most, otherwise you will cause flooding and wet plugs.

Jack '29 Sport Coupe · 09-25-2010, 08:38 AM

The following website can answer a lot of your questions.

WWW.modela.org

Jack

09-23-2010, 06:59 PM	#1
Rich Largent Member Join Date: Sep 2010 Location: Cape Fear area, North Carolina Posts: 53	Idle learning curve I'm the fellow who posted "mine won't start either" and thanks to so many of you taking the time to counsel this newbie Model A'r I got her running today. Seems as though it was gas problem and possibly fuel/air thing as it took flooring the accelerator to get it to light. Once lit it runs quite smoothly but does not have a steady idle. I haven't fooled with the idle air screw (currently 1-1/2 turns out from all in), only with the idle screw on the throttle shaft. Although it appears tight I see some gas seepage at start up around the throtle shaft. This disappears as the engine warms up. Any suggestions for fine tuning the idle?

09-23-2010, 07:10 PM	#2
Big D Senior Member Join Date: Aug 2010 Location: Huntsville, AL Posts: 102	Re: Idle learning curve Not sure about smoothly idle or for that matter if you should even try to adjust it until you clean it. I use to have same issue every few months, but after I started putting Sta-Fuel (or Blue Sta-Fuel for Alcohol added fuels) in the fuel. Now it can sit all winter and starts right up. Good Luck. D

09-23-2010, 07:10 PM	#3
Tom Wesenberg Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Mpls, MN Posts: 27,582	Re: Idle learning curve How long do you crank with the choke pulled? On my car I hit the starter then pull and release the choe and it fires right off. If the engine is warm no choke is used. I turn the gas adjustment knob about a turn open when cold, and close it after a minute.

09-23-2010, 07:27 PM	#4
Karl Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Manawatu, New Zealand Posts: 1,416	Re: Idle learning curve Inlet manifold leak or throttle shaft leak will give a lumpy idle . Karl

09-24-2010, 01:20 AM	#6
J Franklin Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Oregon Posts: 5,959	Re: Idle learning curve Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements) Idle with the distributer retarded give the smoothest idle.

09-24-2010, 07:04 AM	#7
Special Coupe Frank Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Northeast Penna Posts: 2,108	Re: Idle learning curve I'll second Tom's comment about careful use of the choke; it doesn't take much to flood an up-draft carb. Starting with a stone-cold engine, I pull the hand throttle down until I see/feel the accelerator pedal move about 1/4" towards the floor. Then I open the gas knob about 1 turn, then pull the choke all the way and hold. Step on the starter. As soon as the engine fires / coughs, I release the choke knob and make sure it is all the way in. Usually, the engine fires within 3 to 5 grunts of the starter.

09-24-2010, 11:24 AM	#8
J Franklin Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Oregon Posts: 5,959	Re: Idle learning curve you only need to choke for 1 or 2 revolutions at the most, otherwise you will cause flooding and wet plugs.

09-25-2010, 08:38 AM	#9
Jack '29 Sport Coupe Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Cincinnati, Ohio Posts: 798	Re: Idle learning curve The following website can answer a lot of your questions. WWW.modela.org Jack __________________ Cincinnati, Ohio