Go Back   The Ford Barn > General Discussion > Model A (1928-31)

Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements)

Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
Old 08-29-2020, 11:37 PM   #1
Denali
Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2019
Posts: 33
Default Help!!!!

I've got a 1930 Model A Coupe I had shipped up from Colorado 6 months ago to my home here in Fairbanks Alaska. It was a barn find and was in pretty rough shape.
Tried getting it running with very limited success...
It would start, run very rough and then die after warming up. Needless to say, it wouldn't start again...
Since then, I have changed the carburetor, installed new distributor with modern guts, new ammeter, new ignition switch, new charge controller, new wiring harness, new coil. And today (Saturday) I got it all put back together. It started, ran rough, died after warming up and would not restart. I cleaned the grounding strap and the cross member and still no restart. The ammeter shows zero discharge when cranking the engine. I've timed it a few times and still nothing.
I've tried following Les Andrew's Trouble Shooting book and no luck.
What am I missing or doing wrong???
Mark in Fairbanks Alaska
Denali is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-30-2020, 01:03 AM   #2
Synchro909
Senior Member
 
Synchro909's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2014
Location: Melbourne, Australia
Posts: 7,472
Default Re: Help!!!!

Is the fuel cap vented properly? Is the carby clean? It seems you have replaced just about all of the ignition system, not that that means all is well. When it is refusing to start, do you get a spark by opening the points with ignition turned on?
__________________
I'm part of the only ever generation with an analogue childhood and a digital adulthood.
Synchro909 is offline   Reply With Quote
Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements)
Old 08-30-2020, 03:00 AM   #3
Neil Mylar LakewoodCA
Senior Member
 
Neil Mylar LakewoodCA's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Lakewood, CA
Posts: 1,338
Default Re: Help!!!!

Is there good gas flow to carb?

When did it run last?
Could the muffler have a mouse nest in it causing back pressure?
Neil Mylar LakewoodCA is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-30-2020, 03:07 AM   #4
ronn
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: NNNNNNNNJJJJJJJJJJ
Posts: 6,758
Default Re: Help!!!!

agreed. get your fuel going. if not that, would start looking at the valves.
ronn is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-30-2020, 04:29 AM   #5
McMimmcs
Senior Member
 
McMimmcs's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2019
Location: Fort Gratiot, Michigan
Posts: 2,296
Default Re: Help!!!!

Did you totally clean gas tank and put fresh gasoline in ?
McMimmcs is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-30-2020, 07:11 AM   #6
chap52
Senior Member
 
chap52's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: Marana Arizona
Posts: 1,771
Default Re: Help!!!!

Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements)
Agree with fuel issue. When it ran it may have used up all the gas in the carb? Remove gas cap, eliminating cap vent issue. Disconnect fuel line at the carb, put end of fuel line in a container (soda can), open peacock under the gas tank in the cab. Fuel should flow into can.
Just an elimination proceedure. Chap
chap52 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-30-2020, 07:11 AM   #7
chap52
Senior Member
 
chap52's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: Marana Arizona
Posts: 1,771
Default Re: Help!!!!

Agree with fuel issue. When it ran it may have used up all the gas in the carb? Remove gas cap, eliminating cap vent issue. Disconnect fuel line at the carb, put end of fuel line in a container (soda can), open peacock under the gas tank in the cab. Fuel should flow into can.
Just an elimination proceedure. Chap
chap52 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-30-2020, 09:15 AM   #8
john charlton
Senior Member
 
john charlton's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2010
Posts: 1,304
Default Re: Help!!!!

Drop the oil pan and pop out the dipper tray and clean everything ,the oil pump screen could well be blocked with sludge . Clean out the valve chest there are 3 holes one in the middle and one each end they feed oil to the main bearings . Dont wreck your engine by being hasty ,just my thoughts .

John in windy Suffolk County England .
john charlton is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-30-2020, 09:15 AM   #9
john charlton
Senior Member
 
john charlton's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2010
Posts: 1,304
Default Re: Help!!!!

Drop the oil pan and pop out the dipper tray and clean everything ,the oil pump screen could well be blocked with sludge . Clean out the valve chest there are 3 holes one in the middle and one each end they feed oil to the main bearings . Dont wreck your engine by being hasty ,just my thoughts .

John in windy Suffolk County England .
john charlton is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-30-2020, 09:40 AM   #10
Gary WA
Senior Member
 
Gary WA's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Clinton,WA/Whidbey Island
Posts: 4,088
Default Re: Help!!!!

Quote:
Originally Posted by Denali View Post
I've got a 1930 Model A Coupe I had shipped up from Colorado 6 months ago to my home here in Fairbanks Alaska. It was a barn find and was in pretty rough shape.
Tried getting it running with very limited success...
It would start, run very rough and then die after warming up. Needless to say, it wouldn't start again...
Since then, I have changed the carburetor, installed new distributor with modern guts, new ammeter, new ignition switch, new charge controller, new wiring harness, new coil. And today (Saturday) I got it all put back together. It started, ran rough, died after warming up and would not restart. I cleaned the grounding strap and the cross member and still no restart. The ammeter shows zero discharge when cranking the engine. I've timed it a few times and still nothing.
I've tried following Les Andrew's Trouble Shooting book and no luck.
What am I missing or doing wrong???
Mark in Fairbanks Alaska
There's a Great Model A Fellow in Fairbanks, Daryll his name very familiar with Model A's, He's usually on the other Model A Site- Chat section ,www.ahooga.com, if close by I'm sure he would be glad to help.
__________________
www.whidbeymodelaclub.com
Gary WA is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-30-2020, 09:41 AM   #11
Gary WA
Senior Member
 
Gary WA's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Clinton,WA/Whidbey Island
Posts: 4,088
Default Re: Help!!!!

Check for Vacuum leaks, or stuck valve. Do one thing at a time.
__________________
www.whidbeymodelaclub.com
Gary WA is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-30-2020, 09:49 AM   #12
Mulletwagon
Senior Member
 
Mulletwagon's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2019
Location: Florida Panhandle
Posts: 585
Default Re: Help!!!!

Might try some Marvel Mystery Oil in the gas and a direct shot into the carb to lube the valves.
Mulletwagon is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-30-2020, 09:52 AM   #13
Purdy Swoft
Senior Member
 
Purdy Swoft's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Alabama
Posts: 8,099
Default Re: Help!!!!

The problem is probably the condenser . Even if the condenser is new .
Purdy Swoft is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-30-2020, 09:57 AM   #14
Purdy Swoft
Senior Member
 
Purdy Swoft's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Alabama
Posts: 8,099
Default Re: Help!!!!

A bad condenser will sometimes run ok until it gets warm and then quit .
Purdy Swoft is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-30-2020, 10:11 AM   #15
JKY
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2020
Posts: 150
Default Re: Help!!!!

Quote:
Originally Posted by McMimmcs View Post
Did you totally clean gas tank and put fresh gasoline in ?
We have a 28 PU that sat for 20 years with ethanol in the tank. We cleaned and cleaned and cleaned that tank, took two weeks. Replaced all the lines (some were copper), the sediment bowl and ordered a carb from Jim in Texas (great carb and a great guy). We're still having fuel issues because of the rust in the tank.

My guess is that's your problem.

I would check the entire electrical system, switch, coil, condenser and points just to make sure. Once (or if) you're satisfied it's working right move to the fuel system. (Might also check the polarity on the coil, positive ground confuses people on the coil polarity and you'll get spark if it's wrong, but it'll be weak).

When you get ready to check the fuel system take out any inline filters you may have in place. Remove the line at the carb, have someone open the petcock and check the flow into a clear bottle. You should have a good flow, if it's a trickle you have a blockage upstream (ours is usually in the pencil screen stuck in the petcock). Blow into the fuel line and it'll probably knock out whatever is causing it loose.

Check out the fuel you drained out, watch for rust and debris in the bottom. We had gel like stuff in that 28 fuel system. If you have debris in it you'll likely need to clean the tank. With all the EPA regulations it may be tough to find someone that can do the work. Our local guy quoted $350 for the cleaning and $850 for the hazardous waste disposal. $1,200 total. We passed, but if we keep having problems that may be our only option.

The guys here will help you through the process. Good luck!
JKY is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-30-2020, 10:16 AM   #16
Denali
Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2019
Posts: 33
Default Re: Help!!!!

I will look into the fuel system today. Thank you all for your input! Mark in Fairbanks Alaska
Denali is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-30-2020, 10:47 AM   #17
rotorwrench
Senior Member
 
rotorwrench's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: San Antonio, Texas
Posts: 16,369
Default Re: Help!!!!

If the tank needs work, a boat tank or other fuel supply can be used to see if fuel delivery is the problem. I'd do a compression check to see if there is a valve hung open or not. Reviving an engine that has set up for extended periods can be a real challenge sometimes but at least it's a simple design. You can leave the generator out of the circuit for testing and use a battery charger. I wonder if the amp meter is an original or a reproduction. The reproductions are crap and have no sensitivity. An original is very sensitive to any movement when shaking it with your hand. With repros, the needle will rarely move much.
rotorwrench is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 08-30-2020, 10:53 AM   #18
Big hammer
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2014
Location: Land of Lincoln
Posts: 3,114
Default Re: Help!!!!

Quote:
Originally Posted by Purdy Swoft View Post
A bad condenser will sometimes run ok until it gets warm and then quit .
Yep that's what I was thinking, starts and runs until it gets warm. Some have posted that they have installed 4 new condensers until they find one that's good, wondering, probly not the A&L burn prove condensers.
__________________
Don't force it with a little hammer tap, tap, tap
get a bigger hammer tap done
Big hammer is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-30-2020, 10:55 AM   #19
Patrick L.
Senior Member
 
Patrick L.'s Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Largo Florida
Posts: 7,225
Default Re: Help!!!!

Yep,
Compression check
ignition/spark check
fuel supply check
Patrick L. is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-30-2020, 10:56 AM   #20
Patrick L.
Senior Member
 
Patrick L.'s Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Largo Florida
Posts: 7,225
Default Re: Help!!!!

'A&L burn prove condensers.'


Don't trust em
Patrick L. is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

Forum Jump

Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements)


All times are GMT -5. The time now is 06:16 PM.