Engine burns alot of oil but runs great

[fftoddster]

Cyl leak down test was good. Valves tight.
Vacuum at idle was 18” steady dropped on throttle and bumped up to 23. Really ran good for how much oil she was burning.

Question is if I try and do a simple ring and valve job. Do I plastigauge the rod and main bearings if they don’t look too bad? And on floating bearings do you plastigauge inside and outside? Or do they need to be measured with a mic ( I don’t have).

Just want to make sure before I start pulling apart.

Do I bother to try and check valve guides if so how? Or do I plan on having to replace
them with one piece guides and new valves? If so that would mean new or reground cam and lifters? Do you reuse springs or is that new as well?

[Kerk]

I am curious as how far & at what speeds are you driving it. I would also be sure the valve gally is clean enough so what ever oil gets there it is really free to flow back to the pan or crankcase. I then would take it fro a drive at highway speeds so it gets really up to tempeture and keep track of miles driven so you do not get LOW on oil. If the iol looks really black or dirty change and repeat the drive again checking the oil at the end as to condition. You might just need to seat the rings. Oli is relatively cheap and not labor involved vs pulling the engine and tearing it down for what ever needs to be done. If it hes to be done at least you will know you have tried everything before going that route. JMHO kerk

[Russ/40]

Normally I would say "drive the hell out it, like you stole it." But, with all that sludge it needs a good going through. Someone said you have another motor to use. Now that smokey is out, you can put the other motor in and play with smokey. Keep us nosy guys in the loop.

[fftoddster]

Originally Posted by Russ/40

Normally I would say "drive the hell out it, like you stole it." But, with all that sludge it needs a good going through. Someone said you have another motor to use. Now that smokey is out, you can put the other motor in and play with smokey. Keep us nosy guys in the loop.

Well I have to buy the other engine. So I have to figure out buy or rebuild or both.

It is a 47 believed to be a good running stock motor internally. Was running and pulled to clean up.New Edelbrock heads, dual carbs... then he changed plans and went street rod.

So the ? Is $$$

[flatheadmurre]

If leakdown and compression is ok...my prime suspect still is valveguides.
If the split type is loose in the bore it sucks huge amount through there...
Quick fix of that issue is to find what i call type3 splitguides...which lets you use an oring seal on them.
Take off the intake and look down at the intake valves...oil there and you found your suspect !

[fftoddster]

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Originally Posted by flatheadmurre

If leakdown and compression is ok...my prime suspect still is valveguides.
If the split type is loose in the bore it sucks huge amount through there...
Quick fix of that issue is to find what i call type3 splitguides...which lets you use an oring seal on them.
Take off the intake and look down at the intake valves...oil there and you found your suspect !

Yes inside of intake ports looks a lot like lifter valley!


Leakdown test was good. No valve leakage.
Compression test was a little low 75-85 PSI

If bearings are good I’d like to be able to ring it and fix guide leak. Without having expense of all new valve parts lifter cam... and just lap the valves.

More info on type 3 split guide repair?
Thanks

[flatheadmurre]

I grab a couple of different sets of guides tomorrow down the shop and take pics of the different styles...

[flatheadmurre]

So here´s a couple of pictures of the difference between the std style spplitguide and the later evolution of it that can take the oring to seal between guide and block.

[fftoddster]

Originally Posted by flatheadmurre

So here´s a couple of pictures of the difference between the std style spplitguide and the later evolution of it that can take the oring to seal between guide and block.

is that just the difference between intake and exhaust?
I red somewhere that Ford put seals on intakes but not exhaust. Or was that just on later engines?

[JSeery]

Seals on intakes. The originals I have seen are square in cross-section and difficult to install. You can use an o-ring or I think O'Ron uses RTV.
The reason is the low pressure in the cylinder pulls oil in around the guides.

[flatheadmurre]

An o-ring beats sealant since it reseals if the guide move...while sealant once it breaks open stays open.
I buy normal o-rings...the square ones are not only a pain to install they don´t seal as well as the normal type either from what i have found out.
Splitguides has always been same on intake and exhaust with no seals original.
To deal with engine sucking in oil you only need them on intake.
If your guides are loose in the bore you might get a little less exhaust blowing back into the engine crankcase by installing them on exhaust to but thats it.

[fftoddster]

Well here is the plan. I purchased 1947 59 engine from neighbor. According to him and his mechanic it is an original engine out of his woody that was a good running stocker,
The heads were replaced with new Edelbrock heads and has a dual carb intake and new 97 carbs which have not been installed yet. I think I got a fair deal on it (Cheaper than machine work for the 21 stud) So I will piece that one together and install it and get it on road again and then tinker with the 21 stud AKA Ol Smokey