Crank Pulley, How Tight HELP????

[Banky]

Hi all, Banky again. On my first Model A.

Question:
I am replacing my fan that blew apart on me. No fatalities, I was lucky. Anyway, it is a two piece pulley. The inner piece, closest to the block, is snug in against the block. The second piece, which includes the fan belt pulley can move in and out on the crank alomst 1/2 in.

IS THIS NORMAL???? I don't think so, but I want to ask you Barners.

It runs fine when put together, spins the water pump, but does have some "clatter" due to the play.

What is my fix for this???? I already poured over my Les Andrews book, but am still a little unsure.

HELP!

thanks,
Banky

[sconnors]

I just replaced the crankshaft pulley on my '30 CCPU and I went with a one piece pulley. Once installed there was no play at all in it.
Hope that helps.

[Bob C]

There was a thread awhile back about this. The part that is against the crank is not the same
length on all the pulleys, you need to compare your new one with the old one.

Bob

[Jordan]

I've had two 2 piece pulleys in my car, and one of them the flanges broke on the pulley half, and the other one warped. Put a one piece back in it & have not had a problem since. The two piece pulleys are nothing but a problem as far as I'm concerned. The book says to torque them to 80 lbs, but I put some of that anti-seize stuff and torque it to 60 lbs. Haven't had a problem yet....

[Joe K]

The inner piece amounts to a sleeve that mounts on the shaft. It has an external taper at the innermost end and a slot which engages the keyway on the timing gear drive gear on the crank.

The external taper appears to allow entry of the sleeve into the oil seal and allows one some measure of radial compression to the seal as the sleeve is inserted.

When in place, the sleeve should be just proud of the end of the shaft.

Then the pulley/hub is applied and the nut/crank ratchet is used to hold it in place. A square jaw type coupling between the sleeve and pulley hub locks the two parts of the assembly together.

Ultimately it is the keyway on the gear which engages the sleeve which engages the pulley to hold all in relation relative to the crank.

As sconners says when the nut/crank ratchet is fully tightened there should be little or no forward motion. And for the two piece pulley only a little circular lost motion between the three parts.

Maybe some pix so we can see if your design is somehow different?

Joe K

[columbiA]

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On the 2-piece pulleys,I prefer the type where the 2 parts screw together with a LH thread

[BILL WILLIAMSON]

Originally Posted by columbiA

On the 2-piece pulleys,I prefer the type where the 2 parts screw together with a LH thread

Those are quite dandy & "FOOL-PROOF" It's also easy to get the old 1 piece off, when going to this type of pulley. Just remove the ratchet nut, slide pulley forward, and cut it just behind the pulley with your neighbor's SAWS-ALL! If your neighbor don't got a SAWS-ALL, just clobber the pulley rim with a LARGE drift & a 10 LB. SHELALEY & it's off! (That's what Ol' Bill tole' me to tell you!)
Buster T.

[Banky]

So aside from getting a new one piece, is my two piece fixable? I mean can I just correct whatever is wrong? It looks like it needs a spacer between the outer pulley edge and the nut. Or is that just completey wrong???

If I go the new route, do these just slip on and off the crank?

Thanks again all!
Banky

[1931 flamingo]

Is the nut tight??
Paul in CT

[Banky]

Good question! I was working on the fan and didn't even check that. However I can't imagine it's not tightened. Wouldn't it have flown off? Do I need the special tool, or can I use a socket?

[John LaVoy]

There is a slinger on the inside of the timing cover. The crank pulley rests against it. If it is missing the pulley will be too short and the nut will tighten against the crank leaving the pulley free to move and eventually fail. We reviewed the two piece pullies some time ago and at that time could not find one that was correct size wise. Now Snyder's is making one that is correct in diameter and length front to back.

[Banky]

Ordered a new one piece, and a new slinger. Gonna pull the rad this weekend and dig into it. How can I tell if there is a slinger installed without pulling the cover?

thanks

[Tom Wesenberg]

Originally Posted by Banky

Ordered a new one piece, and a new slinger. Gonna pull the rad this weekend and dig into it. How can I tell if there is a slinger installed without pulling the cover?

thanks

Use a depth guage, as found on the vernier caliper. Measure from the slinger to the end of the crankshaft and make sure that measurement is just a little less than the length of the hole through the new pulley. I don't have any specs, but if it's .005 to .015" less, then the bolt will properly tighten the pulley and not tighten by hitting the end of the crankshaft.

[Joe K]

I see Snyders has a shim for making sure the pulley is proud of the crank before tightening.

Joe K

[Banky]

Yah. And they also state that their pulleys are a perfect fit. I'm really trying to do everything right on my A. Not rush through or cheap out on anything.

[James Rogers]

I put new pulleys on all my rebuilds from Snyders and have never had a problem with the one piece. If the slinger is missing your motor will leak from the front. It is possible the bolt in the crank is cross threaded and tight even though it is not pulled up properly. If it is, you will have to fix this before replacing it or the pulley will still be loose.