Windshield Leak While Driving in the Rain

[shew01]

I do not intentionally drive our 1931 Slant Windshield Victoria in the rain, but we sometimes get caught in the rain on a tour.

When I hand wash the car, the windshield does not normally leak. However, when we get caught in the rain while driving, it can leak quite a bit. I’m guessing the angle of the rain and the quantity of water is what makes the difference in leaking.

Is there anything I can do the make the windshield more water tight? A windshield gasket is in place, and it is supple. The car was professionally restored several years ago and has been parked in garages when not in use.


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[shew01]

Here are some pictures. I did just notice a tiny nick on the passenger side, but it doesn’t seem to leak there. The leaks are mostly on the driver side.

To be clear, the leaks occur with the windshield fully closed. I took the pictures with the windshield almost fully extended in hopes of getting better pictures.







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[Oldbluoval]

Approximate origin of leak….top, which side? I know water runs down hill!
Any chance it’s coming around wiper hole?
Water is bad to wick around and the leak may be far away from the source
Originally there was a sticky tape along the header. We used to call it dum-dum; without it, I likely would leak. Just the rubber “Z” gasket usually isn’t enough

[Jim/GA]

I had this problem with the windshield glass on my S/W several years ago. The pressure of the wind and the rain as you drive along will force water through the smallest gap.

I found a small tube of silicone sealant formulated specifically for automotive glass. This stuff is a super thin liquid, like water. You gently apply a narrow bead of it along the line where glass meets gasket (the glass setting rubberized cork inside the window frame) and this stuff wicks into any gap. After it hardens (the next day) you trim any that you can see on the glass off with a razor blade. The sealing happens in the gap that the stuff wicks into.

This is for water entering between the glass and the windshield frame.

If your water is entering between the windshield frame and the car body, then you need to look at your windshield frame gaskets.

There is also a rubber gasket between the windshield hinge and the wooden header above the windshield. You have to take the windshield off (slides right out) and the hinge off to get to it. I put a very thin bead of gasket sealant on mine between gasket and header before tightening up the hinge screws. Again, air pressure while driving really concentrates there and will drive water through the smallest gap.

Hope this helps. Please report back findings and cure.

[nkaminar]

Jim, please supply information on where one can purchase a tube of the silicone sealant.

[shew01]

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Originally Posted by Oldbluoval

Approximate origin of leak….top, which side? I know water runs down hill!
Any chance it’s coming around wiper hole?
Water is bad to wick around and the leak may be far away from the source
Originally there was a sticky tape along the header. We used to call it dum-dum; without it, I likely would leak. Just the rubber “Z” gasket usually isn’t enough

Good question. I never considered the wiper hole. The leak is mostly on the driver side of the windshield.

I searched for dum dum tape, and I found this. Is it similar to what you used?

LLPT Butyl Seal Putty Tape Black 1 Inch x 33 Feet for Leak Proof RV Repair Window Glass Boat Sealing EPDM Roof Patching (BST233) https://a.co/beFmh0b


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[shew01]

Originally Posted by nkaminar

Jim, please supply information on where one can purchase a tube of the silicone sealant.

I’m interested too.


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[Jim/GA]

Originally Posted by nkaminar

Jim, please supply information on where one can purchase a tube of the silicone sealant.

Permatex 81730 Flowable Silicone Windshield and Glass Sealer

Available from auto parts stores or Amazon.

I should add, it is best to remove the windshield and have it laying flat on the bench when you apply this sealant. Then it will stay at the edge of the glass where you put it and wick under the glass-setting tape. If the windshield is on the vehicle, this stuff is thin like water and runs down the glass, rather than wick up and in.

[jack backer]

We called dum dum ‘Miller seal” after the fleet manager we worked for..

Urethane windshield adhesive works too, that’s what Jim is talking about.

[Oldbluoval]

Shew
I don’t recall Mfg.
The wiper has a lead washer with the nut putting pressure on it. Could sure use soft rubber gasket I suppose

[Dale G.]

Two things are disturbing as I see in the pictures. Your rubber gasket between the hinge and the header do not go all the way to the corners of the opening. I have removed original gaskets from Victoria's and S/W fordors and those gaskets were always into the corners. I would say slide your windshield off the hinge, then remove the hinge. Clean any debris out of the angle steel. I use 3M #5200 adhesive sealant, run a small bead into the corner all the way across. With a new gasket cut to size, push it into the corner with a wooden wedge all the way across so that the gasket sticks in there and even with the corners. You understand that the rubber gasket will probably come without any screw holes so you will have to punch holes preferably with a hole punch. Also to make the job neater, slightly round off the rubber bead with a file or on a grinder (carefully). Once the gasket is staying in place, put the hinge on with a small bead of the same adhesive into the hinge all the way across then screw the hinge up. The 3M adhesive comes in black color which is what you should use. When the screws go back make sure you are using a round head wood screw, screw kits from vendors are correct size. You may find the screws do not tighten, then you will have to use the old carpenter trick of dipping a wood sliver into carpenter glue, then into the hole. and let dry over night. Next day, break off the wood slivers flush with the hole, and with a punch, tap a starter hole, then put your hinge up and screw it up as tight as you can. Your screw sequence will start with furthest hole at the end one side, then opposite to the other side, and back and forth toward the center.


If you have deal with the screws, it will throw the sequence off. so you may want to check all those holes first to see if they will tighten as they should. The 3M product is slow drying so you do not have rush. Anything with silicone in it is going to cause rust over the long haul. Also, if when using this product, there is any ooozing, clean off with some mineral spirits. Once the hinge is back in place, slide your windshield back onto the hinge. Note, sliding the windshield off and on should be done with a helper because it is heavy and before you slide it off, look at both ends of the hinge to see if the end has been crimped because sometimes they are. You can open that hole with an awl. I put some oil into the hinge to help it slide better. The oil can be cleaned off after it is back in.


Second observation, when the wiper motor comes through the hole to the outside, there should be a rubber grommet inserted onto the shaft and pushed down to cover the hole. Then there is a thin flat washer pushed against the grommet and then the nut to tighten down onto the washer. The nut is supposed to be an acorn nut as per Restoration Guide Lines. They used to reproduce this nut but I do not know if they still do. If the hole in the header is not completely sealed, you will get a water leak.


I would say by observing your pictures that your windshield hinge gasket is the source of a water leak and possibly your windshield wiper motor hole through the header could be another as you said water is entering in from the top. I know this sounds complicated but it really is not. Go for it and good luck.

[wwirz]

I would try lubricating the rubber seal with glycerin. We did this on new cars in the 70s to stop air whistles and water leaks.

[Bob Bidonde]

My Victoria also has water intrusion at the windshield. I have traced the leakage in my car to the windshield hinge. Rain cascades off of the roof, down the front of the header cover and into the hinge. I also notice there is enough clearance between the hinge parts so the windshield rattles a lot when its open. I can imagine water flowing in the hinge like it's a conduit.

[shew01]

Are there any diagrams for how the windshield comes off the car? I didn’t see anything in the Les Andrews books. Maybe I missed it.


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[Jim/GA]

Originally Posted by shew01

Are there any diagrams for how the windshield comes off the car? I didn’t see anything in the Les Andrews books. Maybe I missed it.


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With the wiper arm off and the adjuster arms totally disconnected, swing the windshield up about 45 degrees and slide it sideways. Get a helper to catch it.

This only works on the S/W models.

Reverse to install.

[shew01]

Originally Posted by Jim/GA

With the wiper arm off and the adjuster arms totally disconnected, swing the windshield up about 45 degrees and slide it sideways. Get a helper to catch it.

This only works on the S/W models.

Reverse to install.

S/W? Slant Windshield?


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[Jim/GA]

Originally Posted by shew01

S/W? Slant Windshield?


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Yes. Sorry about any confusion. S/W = Slant Windshield

[shew01]

Thanks! [emoji2]


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[shew01]

Jim, I found this video for windshield removal, but I agree with you—two people would be better. I’m guessing that the windshield will not slide out smoothly and easily unless it has been recently removed. Two people would be much more helpful.

https://youtu.be/VBvmX2tuBVo


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[jack backer]

You might want to reconsider removing the windshield, you might pay a price in appearance and aggravation beyond what the leak causes.