Oil Change

[MrWzrd]

Decided to change the oil in the A last night so I dropped by here to see what the favorites were on oil and found the same two camps set up that I have found on all of the other old car forums. Detergent or non detergent. (I was only checking to see if there was any brand that worked best with the motor in the A)

I have to toss in one rule of thumb I have learned over the decades and many engine overhauls.

If it has an oil filter use detergent oil, if it does no not have an oil filter, use non-detergent oil.

Detergent oils are designed to suspend the particles of crud so it can be filtered out by the oil filter. Non detergent oil will not keep the particles in suspension and will allow them to settle to the bottom of the pan and stay out of the friction points of the engine. In other words, gravity is your filter with non detergent oil. (it's also why the short oil change interval. You want to get the stuff out before it turns to sludge)

For an oil change, there is no advantage, other that viscosity, to warming detergent oil, but non detergent oil should be warmed so it can better carry the particles on the bottom of the pan out with it..... and... on non-detergent oils they should be changed frequently so, as stated before, sludge does not build up to the point that it is not removed during an oil change. (This means TIME as well as mileage. )

Anyway....my two cents. (did you ever wonder why it's your 2 cents worth but only a penny for you thoughts? What is the other penny all about??)

[Mitch//pa]

lol

[Kurt in NJ]

I have always used detergent oil, do not have a filter, sometimes I have used "used" oil too (last "used" oil change was with oil that had been used for 20 min)

The particles that detergent oil keeps in suspension mostly don't get caught in a filter---why do you think oil gets black, if the filter could catch them the oil would stay clesn---if you cut apart a spin on filter and let it drain the filter media still looks like paper --not black like the oil---actually the average spin on full flow filter isn't good at the really small particles, they are a compromise to allow the oil to flow through only catching 40% or so of the 2-10 micron debris , if you want to remove the really small things you need a bypass filter that will remove 90%+ of the 2 micron things.

Many of the engines that I have taken apart that used plain oil have acid pitting, holes in the dipper trays, pitting on the crankshaft, camshaft

I like a good quality diesel oil, it has more additives for coping with dirty running engines-(non computer )-better acid and particulate control.

No matter what oil you use it is important to get it hot, starting and letting it run for 10 min every week does no good for the engine, a thermostat helps keep the oil cleaner, it heats the engine quicker to evaporate condensation minimizing the formation of acids.

[jhowes]

My experience with used oil was an economical issue. In the early 50's my dad had a straight eight pontiac . When he changed oil it went into my model A which I ran the He-- out of and it never quit. The roads were dirt at that time that I ran on without a licience.

[marc hildebrant]

Sorry, but the stated rule on when to use detergent oil (oil filter) or non-detergent oil just doen't make sense.

Marc

[Patrick L.]

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Its my opinion to warm the oil before drainage, any oil. I only would use non-detergent oil in an oil squirt can.

[jkeesey]

I use oil. It usually comes in some sort of container. I have found it hard to run 4.5 quarts home from the store without it.

[Terry,NJ]

I've interjected my comments before, so here goes again. I recently "Refreshed' an engine that was worn out. Bearings were out to specs maximum. without going through the whole story, it was worn but not blown. Eventually, I got down to the oil pump and what I saw shocked me. The screen was almost 100% blocked with sludge (along with the oil pan and valve chamber. The question is why didn't it blow? Perhaps the dipper system saved it, I don't know. Probably the previous owner thought as many do, that they can control sludge with non detergent oil (Yeah, if you like sludge and want to build up some more of it in your engine) Me, I'm convinced! Nothing but detergent oil goes in my engine! Henry would have used it if he had it! And Remeber, The best oil of 1930 isn't as good as the worst oils of today!
Terry

[Randy in Illinois]

MrWzrd, I'm in your camp with use of oil, as a long time auto mechanic and certified car nut even longer. ( the other penny is for tax) lol

[Big John]

straight 30 weight....non detergent as intended by instruction book....

[Mike V. Florida]

ANY automotive oil will work just fine. Any specifications of brand or type is just personal preference.

[Fred K-OR]

My two cents worth is I use detergent oil because both of my rigs has fairly "fresh" engines. But I do use different weights of oils depending on the time of year. For example here in Oregon the temp ranges between teens to 100 or a little more. So I may use 10-30 in winter and maybe 10 or 20-40 in summer.

Have to add a stupid comment but do people know what 10-30 or 20-40 mean? Just to explain what I consider them to mean is that for example if you use 10-30, when you start your engine and it is cold, it would act like just a 10 weight oil and then when it warms up, it would be more like a 40 weight oil. Thus the reason I mentioned you need to consider the time of year it is and where you live.

Maybe I am all wet about this comment about oil weight so go ahead and throw oil at me!

[Patrick L.]

Originally Posted by Fred K-OR

My two cents worth is I use detergent oil because both of my rigs has fairly "fresh" engines. But I do use different weights of oils depending on the time of year. For example here in Oregon the temp ranges between teens to 100 or a little more. So I may use 10-30 in winter and maybe 10 or 20-40 in summer.

Have to add a stupid comment but do people know what 10-30 or 20-40 mean? Just to explain what I consider them to mean is that for example if you use 10-30, when you start your engine and it is cold, it would act like just a 10 weight oil and then when it warms up, it would be more like a 40 weight oil. Thus the reason I mentioned you need to consider the time of year it is and where you live.

Maybe I am all wet about this comment about oil weight so go ahead and throw oil at me!

I did my college paper on oils. Example, 10W-30. Simply and basically, The oil flows as a 10 weight but has the film strength of a 30 weight. Some think that these oils get thicker as they warm. They don't, they still thin a bit as they warm but as long as the film strength stays at 30 is what matters.

[Fred K-OR]

Thanks Patrick. This is good to know rather than my guess as to what it means.

But would it still make sense to use 10-30 in winter and 10-40 in summer????
And also if your engine is "fresh", then the 10-xx would be best while a 20-xx would be better for an older used engine???? Opinion please.

[Brother Hesekiel]

Talking about engine oil is like talking about religion. I have read more about engine oil than I can remember, but if you have an hour time, here's the best article I have ever read. And, no, if you haven't read this, you can't possibly know this, unless you hold a Ph.D. in chemical engineering and own collector cars worth $20,000,000 or more.

http://ferrarichat.com/forum/faq.php?faq=haas_articles

[Art Bjornestad]

I have been using diesel grade 15-40 Chevron Dello for some years now. It's available at Costco and diesel oils have a high zinc content.

[Allanw]

Originally Posted by Brother Hesekiel

Talking about engine oil is like talking about religion. I have read more about engine oil than I can remember, but if you have an hour time, here's the best article I have ever read. And, no, if you haven't read this, you can't possibly know this, unless you hold a Ph.D. in chemical engineering and own collector cars worth $20,000,000 or more.

http://ferrarichat.com/forum/faq.php?faq=haas_articles

That is a great article! It explains the things that people don't get.

Anybody who insists on 30 weight certainly needs to read it.

[Fred K-OR]

Originally Posted by Brother Hesekiel

Talking about engine oil is like talking about religion. I have read more about engine oil than I can remember, but if you have an hour time, here's the best article I have ever read. And, no, if you haven't read this, you can't possibly know this, unless you hold a Ph.D. in chemical engineering and own collector cars worth $20,000,000 or more.

http://ferrarichat.com/forum/faq.php?faq=haas_articles

Sorry Brother Hesekiel but I am still confused. Yes this was a great article but for a poor old guy like me that only understood maybe a very small part of it, could you give me a little more guidance.

From what I read, for a normal Model A that most of us drive, after getting it started, the all oil heats up to a temp, if I read it correctly was 212 F or there about. So the consideration is to get an oil that will be fluid enough to lubricate the engine on start up until it heats up to operating temp.
So the next question is what weight? In cold weather is it a 10-30 or ??? And in warm weather 20-40 or maybe then you could just use a 30 weight???

As you can see, sorry but I am still confused about what to use. And in my situation I have fairly fresh engines so I want to use just the old type detergent oil. Again if you don't mine, please help me out as to what weight oil.

Thanks

[Mitch//pa]

fred dont get lost up in the oil jungle. what you are doing now is just fine

[Patrick L.]

Originally Posted by Fred K-OR

Sorry Brother Hesekiel but I am still confused. Yes this was a great article but for a poor old guy like me that only understood maybe a very small part of it, could you give me a little more guidance.

From what I read, for a normal Model A that most of us drive, after getting it started, the all oil heats up to a temp, if I read it correctly was 212 F or there about. So the consideration is to get an oil that will be fluid enough to lubricate the engine on start up until it heats up to operating temp.
So the next question is what weight? In cold weather is it a 10-30 or ??? And in warm weather 20-40 or maybe then you could just use a 30 weight???

As you can see, sorry but I am still confused about what to use. And in my situation I have fairly fresh engines so I want to use just the old type detergent oil. Again if you don't mine, please help me out as to what weight oil.

Thanks

Yup, I agree. Don't get too worked up over this or loose any sleep. I'm sure things/theories/facts have changed since I studied this back in the dark ages [ early days of multi-weights]. Dr Haas has written a good simple article,but, I don't agree with everything he has written, but, it just may be the way he wrote it. Its still a good article.
His article states that Ferrari wants the oil to be 10 weight[grade] at operating temps. OK, who is anyone to dispute what that prestigious manufacturer wants.
An engine does experience its greatest wear when it isn't being fully lubed, in most conditions that is upon startup.
I doubt our engines ever or rarely get to boiling [212F], at least they shouldn't. So if we want a 10 weight oil at our operating temps that means we need a pretty light oil. Most of us are pretty hesitant about that. And in real life, most engines lead a pretty easy life today so as long as one uses a good quality clean oil and takes it easy upon and right after startup you'll be fine and the engine should live a long life. The engine oil will start to warm quite quickly, the oil pump should do its job almost immediately. If the engine doesn't knock, there is an oil cushion.
What oil do you feel comfortable with ? It should be fine as long you don't use the old used car dealer trick of filling it with gear oil. About the only real recommendation I would make is to use a detergent oil and have the engine warm when you change it.
There is world of difference in the science and thoughts about oil since these old monsters were made.

[Wick]

Go onto Youtube and look up Model A oil change...it shows where the man removes the pan (sitting for 50 years).....No words can describe what he shows you YUK!

[Fred K-OR]

Thanks guys for the info. I do use a good brand of 10-30 detergent oil here in the Oregon area where it does not get to cold in the winter. Besides I do not drive much in the cold weather anyway. Except today we drove about 70 miles on a tour and the weather was rather cold, about 26 to start with. But after putting on layers of clothes and driving gloves, everything was not to bad.

Thanks again for the help.

[Allanw]

Originally Posted by Patrick L.

His article states that Ferrari wants the oil to be 10 weight[grade] at operating temps. OK, who is anyone to dispute what that prestigious manufacturer wants.

Not quite: was he said was: "The automotive designers usually call for their engines to run at 212 F oil and water temperature with an oil thickness of 10. This is the viscosity of the oil, not the weight or grade as labeled on the oil can."

The 10 he refers to is 10cSt, which is roughly what SAE 30 oil measures at 212F (100C). At 75F, SAE 30 would thicken to about 250 cSt, where a 0W-30 has only thickened to 40 cSt - they are the same at 212F though - 10cSt.

Ideally, our engines would run at 212 - to burn off the moisture that causes the corrosive acids in the crankcase.

So if SAE 30 was your chosen grade for operating temps, then the oil that stays closest to the viscosity through the temperature range from cold to warm, is going to be 0W-30. It's the one which will be thinnest at room temp, and will thin out to the same viscosity at operating temp as the other oils (5W-30, 10W-30, 20W-30 and straight 30). a 20W-30 will be FAR thicker at room temp, and also thin out to the same viscosity at operating temp.

Ideally, oil would be the same viscosity (10cSt) at ALL temperatures, but they aren't - they are ALL thicker when cold (too thick).

A 0W-30 would be fine all year round in most climates, though it's going to be expensive, if you're going to change it every 1000 or 1500 miles. In the interests of cost savings, anything with your chosen operating temperature viscosity (the second number - usually 30 or 40 for a model A), and the lowest first number you're happy with the price of will be fine. I'd suggest the colder your climate is, the lower the first number you aim for.

As everybody says, pretty much anything will be OK... just if you're using straight 30 or 20W-30 etc, you're sacrificing cold start protection for lower cost oil - the lower that first number is, the better cold start flow/protection you will have, and a Model A without a thermostat can be running cold a lot of the time!

[tbirdtbird]

Ryan should ban all threads about oil. I can't take it any more.
Since sludge seems to be so good for an engine, I think I will buy some at the Sludge Store and dump it in my crankcase.

Too bad I tossed out the 1.5 inch layer of it I scraped out of my 1950 Jeepster oil pan....with only 20 K miles and regular oil changes, and no filter. I shoulda left it in there.

[Mike V. Florida]

Originally Posted by tbirdtbird

Ryan should ban all threads about oil. I can't take it any more.
Since sludge seems to be so good for an engine, I think I will buy some at the Sludge Store and dump it in my crankcase.

Too bad I tossed out the 1.5 inch layer of it I scraped out of my 1950 Jeepster oil pan....with only 20 K miles and regular oil changes, and no filter. I shoulda left it in there.

Rare sludge, could have sold it on ebay!

[Patrick L.]

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Sludge is funny stuff isn't it. Back in the day I've pulled valve covers and found the manufacturers name molded perfectly in the sludge. Yep, I really miss scraping all that stuff out of all the nooks and crannies, what fun it used to be. Good old straight weight non detergent oil is such great stuff.

[Mitch//pa]

sludge is also caused by an engine running to cool
thats why a t-stat is important

[Brother Hesekiel]

Fred,

which oil to choose always depends on the car and the purpose of the car, as well as the operating conditions. ANY oil, whether 20 or 30 grade will work just fine once it's warmed up. The main purpose of the article is to take away the old wifes' tale that a 20-50 or a thicker single grade oil is a good thing, even for an old engine or one with large tolerances (think old Chevy 350 with 400K miles).

The main reason of wear in an engine is start up, with no lubrication, followed by the time with cold oil. The point is, the perfect oil for a Model A would be a 0W-30. That's only available as a synthetic though. Think of it this way: your 30 grade oil or even 20 grade oil is all your Model A will ever need under normal operating conditions, unless it's 110 degrees outside and you are climbing a long winding hill with full throttle. What you need to worry about is the time until your oil is fully warmed up. On a no-pressure system, like the Model T has it, think how much easier it is to spoon up super thin juice compared to honey and throw it on the moving parts. One cold start equals hundreds of miles of driving, so that's a big deal. I personally buy the cheapest 5W-30 oil I can find. For a while now my CarQuest store sells Castrol Synthetic Blend in gallon form for $15.99, which I think is a good deal.

Even for a freshly rebuilt engine, I would go with 10-grade non-detergent oil only for a very short break-in period. Better yet is Purple Power Engine Break In oil, made for specifically that purpose.

I am also a big fan of using diesel oil in old engines. It's designated for diesels, as it is designed to keep carbon particles in suspension, and the "good old" *CI4 or older) diesel oils do not meet today's emission requirements. I use dino diesel oil in my old BMW motorcycles. The R69S also only has a non-pressurized splash system. A gallon of Rotella or Valvoline Blue diesel oil cost about $18.99.

[BILL WILLIAMSON]

I WELL remember when, in the '50's, an oil company came to auto shop to demo their NEW "MULTI-GRADE" OILS!
Made sense to me, it's THINNER when COLD & THICKER when it's HOT! This results in a more constant viscosity through ALL temperature ranges, resulting in proper flow through all the oil passages.
A friend put 50W in a '59 Cadillac, the oil would NOT even flow into the hydraulic lifters & it did KLICKIDY- KLICK for 20 minutes!!!! Drained it for 2 days, put in 10-30 W & all was WELL!! Bill W.

[Terry,NJ]

I recall fitutzin with cars (Fords) in the late 50s and early 60s. Cost was the dominant factor and Wolf's head and Fox Head filled the bill ($12 @ a case of 24 qts) Brrrrr! It was oil, But....! AND I recall the early overheads (239, 256, 272, 292, 312) and their infamous "Oiler kits" You must remember those little masterpieces of plumbing that bypassed the oil galeries that were so clogged with SLUDGE. And these engines had filters! Remember the lovely scoopfuls of sludge we used to take out of the valve covers. Those were the days!
Terry

Originally Posted by BILL WILLIAMSON

I WELL remember when, in the '50's, an oil company came to auto shop to demo their NEW "MULTI-GRADE" OILS!
Made sense to me, it's THINNER when COLD & THICKER when it's HOT! This results in a more constant viscosity through ALL temperature ranges, resulting in proper flow through all the oil passages.
A friend put 50W in a '59 Cadillac, the oil would NOT even flow into the hydraulic lifters & it did KLICKIDY- KLICK for 20 minutes!!!! Drained it for 2 days, put in 10-30 W & all was WELL!! Bill W.

[Bruce Adams]

Originally Posted by Big John

straight 30 weight....non detergent as intended by instruction book....

FWIW
While I use 5W30 MOBIL ONE synthetic oil in my (Antique Engine Rebuilders -Skokie) engine, page 14 of my 1931 Owners manual says to use "S.A.E. viscosity No. 40 ...for summer use. For winter use...S.A.E. No 20 should be used."

[Patrick L.]

Originally Posted by Terry,NJ

I recall fitutzin with cars (Fords) in the late 50s and early 60s. Cost was the dominant factor and Wolf's head and Fox Head filled the bill ($12 @ a case of 24 qts) Brrrrr! It was oil, But....! AND I recall the early overheads (239, 256, 272, 292, 312) and their infamous "Oiler kits" You must remember those little masterpieces of plumbing that bypassed the oil galeries that were so clogged with SLUDGE. And these engines had filters! Remember the lovely scoopfuls of sludge we used to take out of the valve covers. Those were the days!
Terry

Those were the days, thats for sure. Those old Fords would spin a cam bearing and shut the oil off to the rockers, what fun that was. Scraping sludge was SOP. So much fun.

[BILL WILLIAMSON]

Originally Posted by Terry,NJ

I recall fitutzin with cars (Fords) in the late 50s and early 60s. Cost was the dominant factor and Wolf's head and Fox Head filled the bill ($12 @ a case of 24 qts) Brrrrr! It was oil, But....! AND I recall the early overheads (239, 256, 272, 292, 312) and their infamous "Oiler kits" You must remember those little masterpieces of plumbing that bypassed the oil galeries that were so clogged with SLUDGE. And these engines had filters! Remember the lovely scoopfuls of sludge we used to take out of the valve covers. Those were the days!
Terry

Yep, Terry, and the valves would stick on the "Y" blocks, if they sat too long on the used car lot & the push rod would jump off the mushroom tappet. I'd use a spring hooked to the rocker adjuster to keep the push rod on the lifter. THEN, I'd hook a strong spring to side of the valve spring, and from the top of that spring, I'd use a long skinny bar, prying up on the spring, get someone to start it, & with my free hand, I'd keep squirtin' crap on the valve stem until it freed up. It wuz easier than pullin' the heads.
And sometimes the crap build up in the valve covers would FALL & plug up the big oil return holes in the head, FILL the valve covers with oil & MAN would them dudes SMOKE!!!!!!!! When you pulled the valve covers, the oil would run almost ALL the way down your DRIVEWAY BOY! I sure miss all that great fun!!! WHY IN HELL WOULD ANYBODY EVEN "THINK" ABOUT RUNNIN' NON-DETERGENT OIL, EVER, EVER, EVER,---blaaaaah!! I DON'T even put it in my JOHN DEERE SQUIRT CAN THAT CHIEF GAVE ME!!! Bill W.
(If you have any leftover NEW non-detergent oil, use it up on your "SLIP & SLIDE", INSTEAD OF WASTING PRECIOUS WATER!!)

[Allanw]

Originally Posted by BILL WILLIAMSON

I WELL remember when, in the '50's, an oil company came to auto shop to demo their NEW "MULTI-GRADE" OILS!
Made sense to me, it's THINNER when COLD & THICKER when it's HOT! This results in a more constant viscosity through ALL temperature ranges, resulting in proper flow through all the oil passages.

Ahhh. A common misunderstood thing about multi-vis.

All oils thicken as they cool, multi-vis thickens LESS as it cools.

They actually haven't invented an oil that is thin enough at startup yet - they're all too thick.

So, 0W-30 and SAE30 are the same thickness when "hot" (212F) - measured as about 10cSt - about right for running an engine.

The difference is when they are cold (room temps - maybe 75F): 0W-30 probably measures 40 cSt, but SAE30 will measure probably around 200 cSt - that's what causes the wear - you get REALLY high oil pressure, but low flow.

[Mike V. Florida]

Originally Posted by Allanw

Ahhh. A common misunderstood thing about multi-vis.

All oils thicken as they cool, multi-vis thickens LESS as it cools.

They actually haven't invented an oil that is thin enough at startup yet - they're all too thick.

So, 0W-30 and SAE30 are the same thickness when "hot" (212F) - measured as about 10cSt - about right for running an engine.

The difference is when they are cold (room temps - maybe 75F): 0W-30 probably measures 40 cSt, but SAE30 will measure probably around 200 cSt - that's what causes the wear - you get REALLY high oil pressure, but low flow.

This may also help;

http://abcnews.go.com/Technology/story?id=119270&page=1

[SDJason]

I know - next oil change I'll use 1 quart each of 5-30, 10-40, 20-50, and straight 30.

That'll keep me covered all-around, then : )

Just gotta decide if the straight 30 should be detergent or non-detergent...

[Patrick L.]

Originally Posted by SDJason

I know - next oil change I'll use 1 quart each of 5-30, 10-40, 20-50, and straight 30.

That'll keep me covered all-around, then : )

Just gotta decide if the straight 30 should be detergent or non-detergent...

Ya, but, but, but, which one goes in first ?

[Allanw]

Originally Posted by SDJason

I know - next oil change I'll use 1 quart each of 5-30, 10-40, 20-50, and straight 30.

That'll keep me covered all-around, then : )

Just gotta decide if the straight 30 should be detergent or non-detergent...

Just add a cup of Lux Flakes

[Brother Hesekiel]

I remember when we poured a can of STP into the engine oil, as that stuff sticks like glue to the metal parts and thus prevents wear. Thinking about it, a 50/50 blend of straight 60W Harley motor oil and STP might be ideal. To be sure, add a can of Slick 50!
:-)

[Rex_A_Lott]

Originally Posted by Brother Hesekiel

I remember when we poured a can of STP into the engine oil, as that stuff sticks like glue to the metal parts and thus prevents wear. Thinking about it, a 50/50 blend of straight 60W Harley motor oil and STP might be ideal. To be sure, add a can of Slick 50!
:-)

Years ago I added a can of STP to a very worn A model engine, with the mistaken belief that a worn out engine needed needed to have much, much, thicker oil. All I accomplished was to make it start leaking in places it had never leaked before.. Never again, for me. Definitely one of the times I outsmarted myself.

[Terry,NJ]

My friend Bob, told me how they had done an experiment with old cars by draining the engines and running them without oil until they seized. The ones with STP would always run longer than the ones with out. Also, somewhere I heard that STP would Cling to the engine parts longer to provide better lubrication at start ups after long periods of inactivity.
Terry

[Terry,NJ]

Was it high detergent STP?
Terry

Originally Posted by Rex_A_Lott

Years ago I added a can of STP to a very worn A model engine, with the mistaken belief that a worn out engine needed needed to have much, much, thicker oil. All I accomplished was to make it start leaking in places it had never leaked before.. Never again, for me. Definitely one of the times I outsmarted myself.

[Python308]

Personally I would suggest some AMSOIL 30 weight Z-ROD oil. It was specifically made for vintage cars and has some great data to go right along with it. Albeit it is synthetic. However I still have a few friends that run it in their much much older cars and absolutely love it.
http://www.amsoil.com/shop/by-produc...-EA&zo=5242643

[tbirdtbird]

Someone needs to be bold enough to run just plain liquid detergent in the crankcase and report back the results; we need to gather more data before we jump to any conclusions pro and con detergent. And someone needs to try just plain brake fluid, since that has come up, too. Something has to be better than motor oil!

[Fred K-OR]

I would like to thank all those who posted some of the technical information to this thread. I know I have learned a lot about the "scientific" considerations about oil and how it works in our engines. Many things I had never known or considered and had never heard the explanations for the various weight oils, types of oils and etc.

I know people on this site get tired of hearing about "what oil to use in my A" but rarely do we get a technical reason as to why "I" use this oil. A number of the posts on this thread does enlighten us as to what oil does to our engines and thus gives us some options as to what we should do. Thus again I do thank those "engineer" type people who responded with some scientific explanations about oil. I am sure people will still use what oil they have always used but at least now they know how that oil effects our engines.

Thank you again.

[BILL WILLIAMSON]

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I cain't believe I read this WHOLE thing, AGAIN!!!!! I'm pathetic!!
Just use a QUALITY multi-grade, detergent oil, of the proper viscosity for the weather temp ranges where you live!
Do change your oil at proper intervals. Some folks I know who "CROW" about proper maintenance, are too blamed LAZY to change their oil, unless, ALL OF A SUDDEN, it's BELOW the LOW mark!! Some complain of hard steering, then find that the tires only have 12# pressure & NO sign of fresh grease around steering & suspension stuff!!! Complain of runnin' warmer than usual, then find it just needed the water topped up!!!!
"TALK" IS CHEEP!!!! Bill W.