Oil dip stick tube length for 292 - Thunderbird

[zuburg]

I swear I recently saw this but can’t find it. I just received a new oil dip stick tube from Mac’s because the bracket broke off my old one trying to install it after a new engine install.

When I align the new tube next to the old one, I can line up the welded brackets but the length of the new tube is 1 3/4” longer. (18 3/4” end to end)

The dip stick I have is about 25 1/2” from tip to top of cup.

Can anyone tell me if my dip stick is the correct length and is the new tube the correct length?

[KULTULZ]

The 55/57 BIRD dipstick tube is 18 43/64" Developed Length (B5S 6754-B)

The 55/57 BIRD dipstick is 28 1/16" Length (B5S 6750-B)

[zuburg]

Wow. It looks like the new tube is correct but the stick is more than 2 1/2” short.

Now that I think about it, the dip stick may have come from a 239 Y-block which the previous owner installed in this T-bird.

[dmsfrr]

I measured the two T-Bird dipsticks I have, one is a reproduction the other may be original.
From the cap / tube cover to the tip I got 25 & 1/2 inches on both of them. From the cap to the Full mark is 22 & 3/4, to the Add mark is 24 & 1/2.

Measuring the (curved) original dipstick tube in a straight line from end to end came out to 18 & 3/4.
The reproduction tube is in a car and difficult to measure, something over 18 inches but not as much as 19.

To possibly confuse things I also have a third dipstick tube, it came on the older incorrect engine that was in the car.
It does not have the slight ridge near the bottom and lining up the support brackets the bottom end is about 1/4 shorter and the top end is just over an inch shorter. It looks like the lower one in your first photo, compared to the one directly above it. Overall length 17 & 5/8.
.

[zuburg]

Thanks, it looks like my new tube and old stick are the same as your first two. I was concerned the stick would not be long enough with the new, longer tube. I will see what the stick shows after filling the engine with oil.

Do you usually add some oil to the filter when first filling, and before priming the engine with oil prior to first starting engine?

[KULTULZ]

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Originally Posted by zuburg

Do you usually add some oil to the filter when first filling, and before priming the engine with oil prior to first starting engine?

How are you planning to prime the engine (oil)?

[dmsfrr]

Originally Posted by zuburg

Thanks, it looks like my new tube and old stick are the same as your first two. I was concerned the stick would not be long enough with the new, longer tube. I will see what the stick shows after filling the engine with oil.

Do you usually add some oil to the filter when first filling, and before priming the engine with oil prior to first starting engine?

Originally Posted by KULTULZ

How are you planning to prime the engine (oil)?

The oil pan holds 5 quarts plus one for the oil filter. I suspect the spin-on filter holds slightly less than the oem canister style.
After running the engine the first time the oil level on the dipstick was only very slightly above the Full mark. So the correct tube and dipstick length were confirmed.

Priming the engine with oil by spinning the oil pump shaft (ccw) is the best way. But we didn't have the patience. I filled the spin-on filter maybe halfway with oil and installed it.
With the ignition disconnected we spun the engine with the starter to: get oil pressure, fill the fuel filter and carburetor. Then reconnected the ignition and started it.

It seems some of the spin-on oil filter adapters come with a fairly floppy rubber gasket to use between the block and adapter plate. The one on the engine blew out right away, making a big puddle on the floor, and the one in the replacement kit blew out the following week.
I believe the oem style gasket is a stiffer fiber material that would hold up better.

I replaced them both with a machined aluminum adapter that uses an o-ring and have had no further trouble with it.
.

[zuburg]

I bought one of those primers (basically a shaft) that you use by removing the distributor, inserting the shaft and run the oil pump with a cordless drill in reverse. You take off the valve covers to observe when the oil comes out to the valves. Just for full disclosure, I have no experience myself, but this is how I understand it.

[KULTULZ]

Originally Posted by dmsfrr

Priming the engine with oil by spinning the oil pump shaft (ccw) is the best way. But we didn't have the patience. I filled the spin-on filter maybe halfway with oil and installed it.

With the ignition disconnected we spun the engine with the starter to: get oil pressure, fill the fuel filter and carburetor. Then reconnected the ignition and started it.

This was on a fresh engine? That method gives a dry start.

[dmsfrr]

Originally Posted by KULTULZ

This was on a fresh engine? That method gives a dry start.

It had oil up to the rocker arms so it wasn't dry when it actually started. But yes just all the assembly lube until then. Like I said, it wasn't the 'best' way.

[KULTULZ]

Originally Posted by dmsfrr

It had oil up to the rocker arms so it wasn't dry when it actually started. But yes just all the assembly lube until then.

Like I said, it wasn't the 'best' way.

When you crank it with no ignition/fuel, the engine components even with an assembly lube will have the lube wiped as the engine is cranked, especially if using a cam lobe break-in lube. The lube will actually be wiped off the surfaces until normal oil pressure is achieved. So while everything is spinning (dry crank) the assembly lube is wiped from components and not being replaced by pressurized oil.

A quick wet start (correct fuel and ignition) will hopefully ensure proper lubrication once everything starts to rub against one another, a primed oil filter being an assurance of immediate oil pressure.

Of course this is all monitored with an oil pressure gauge looking for any dips/spikes.

Let's say it is an early FYB with a cross-drilled center journal cam to supply oil to the valve-train. If those passages are not lined up properly, there will be no pressure at the rockers. Spinning the pump gives one the ability to see if all areas are receiving lube and at what pressure.

You can also rotate the engine slowly by hand while priming to visualize proper lube but this can backfire too as the cam assembly lube can be wiped from the cam lobes and proper wear-in may not occur.

Just trying to get my point across, no hate intended ...