Engine Stand

[Railcarmover]

Originally Posted by daren007

Build your own side mount and save a bundle.

ran mine up in a jiffy

[Tim Ayers]

Originally Posted by midgetracer

I don't want to hijack this thread, but I use a Stipe type engine stand bracket, and I have a B engine with a Miller head. I am concerned that the weight of this engine (I want to avoid pulling the head) will be too heavy for this engine stand. I have visions of breaking off the pan flange. I need to redo the Burtz seal I have on the rear of the crankshaft, and I want to disassemble as little of the engine as possible. I think I need to polish the area where the slinger was a lot better or at least make sure that the drain back tube has nothing blocking the flow. Am I too squeamish about doing damage to the engine? I have over 10K in this engine, but the leak is really bothering me.

I would think the Miller aluminum head isn't too much heavier than a cast iron stock one. Curious if anyone has weighed them.

[midgetracer]

i have the stock cast iron one, but haven't weighed it. It is very heavy though. Probably more than the stock flywheel.

[denniskliesen]

I made my own adapter for the side of the engine partly due to having the heavier HF engine stand. The pipe size is bigger for the rotating piece.

[BILL WILLIAMSON]

Originally Posted by Purdy Swoft

I've got a Harbor freight engine stand and it can be connected to the rear of the engine . I use the engine stand adapter pictured in post number 6 that connects to the side water inlet . It works well and the engine can easily turned upside down .

Purdy,
I remember you traveled a LOOOONG way to a machine shop. Glad you have a Harbor Freight Store, near you.
I HATE folks that criticise them!!! Look at their website, they have more stuff than you can wave a stick at!
Bill W.

[Smitty]

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With the flywheel and housing in place the side mounted engine balances quite well. That is how they were set up on the KR Wilson stands. Easy to rotate

[Railcarmover]

Originally Posted by BILL WILLIAMSON

Purdy,
I remember you traveled a LOOOONG way to a machine shop. Glad you have a Harbor Freight Store, near you.
I HATE folks that criticise them!!! Look at their website, they have more stuff than you can wave a stick at!
Bill W.

If you use a Harbor Freight stick they break when you wave them..

[DD931]

Railcarmover - Thanks for the picture!!!

[katy]

These work: https://www.otctools.com/products/60...l-engine-stand

[1929 Red Tudor]

It does not get much simpler than this

[daren007]

Oh nooooo Bill. Never sell your welder. I would consider getting rid of my dog before my welder.

[AL in NY]

DD931; I believe you stated you wanted to leave the head and oil pan on the engine when you mount it to the engine stand. The side mount adapter is bolted to the engine using the water inlet and two bolts on the oil pan. If you use the side adapter, you'll have to remove the oil pan BEFORE you mount the engine to the engine stand. If you remove the flywheel and flywheel housing, you can use the rear of the engine to mount the engine onto the stand. Use the top two bolt holes(where the shims go) and the lower two flywheel housing bolt holes to mount to the engine stand. This lowers the engine so the center of rotation is nearer the engine's center of gravity. You can do all your disassembly and assembly with the engine mounted this way. But you'll have to dismount it to add the flywheel housing and flywheel again.

[CarlG]

You don’t have to remove the pan, only the two bolts where the engine mount goes.

[AL in NY]

CarlG: how are you going to remove the oil pan after you mount the engine on the stand using the side mount adapter?

[daren007]

The two bolts that use the pan rail do not need nuts. You can use dowels for this. I had a local welding/fabricator shear and bend my adaptor plate. I had a template for them to use. I welded the two bolts to the plate and drilled the two water inlet holes as well as four holes to bolt the plate to my engine stand. I bolted the adapter directly to the stand face thus eliminating having to deal with fabricating a pipe.

[CarlG]

Originally Posted by AL in NY

CarlG: how are you going to remove the oil pan after you mount the engine on the stand using the side mount adapter?

You have to take the rest of the pan bolts out.

[100IH]

Anyone who does this daily would put a drain pan under the drain plugs first thing and let it drip right up until time to mount the sling and lift the block out. then set it down a cart or on the floor for removing clutch and flywheel and then F/W housing. Then mount the adapter (you can remove the bolts that are in the way at the pan rail). Then up to mount on the stand.

[denniskliesen]

Originally Posted by katy

These work: https://www.otctools.com/products/60...l-engine-stand

6,000 lb revolver, I worked with one of those for years in my past of being employed. I had some big diesels, differentials, and transmissions on them before.

[Gene F]

Eagle, what stand is this?

[eagle]

Originally Posted by Gene F

Eagle, what stand is this?

Engine is sitting in a corner, behind some stuff so hard to get a picture but this shows how I mounted it. Works fine for me. Its just the cheap Harbor Freight stand.