Testing a early 6 volt generator with cutout

[uncle buck]

After reading the thread started by deetz I still have questions. My 32 pickup is equipped with a cutout and not charging. How should I go about testing this style? Is there a way to also test the cutout too? I'd like to get it working properly to drive it to the Early Ford Picnic coming up next Sunday at the Bellevue Community College. Thanks in advance

[FlatheadTed]

Buck screw up a 5' wire to one side of the cut out terminal, run the motor *( momentary ) at a fast idol touch the wire on the opposite terminal and observe the Amp Gauge ,if it starts to charge you likely have a faulty cut out ,if it doesn't you likely have a faulty Generator

[rotorwrench]

The generator has to generate around 6-volts off residual magnetism in the pole shoes to pull the cut out switch closed. Once it's closed and generating, it all depends on the 3rd brush position as to whether it will put any current out or not. I would use a separate amp meter with a needle movement to check the output but some folks rely on the stock amp meter which is fine on the real early cars. I don't think an induction type meter will do the job very well.

A lot of the late cut out replacement parts are just a big diode inside the can. These don't have a cut out but they still have to put out some amperage to charge the battery. Most 3-brush generators can't put out much more than 6-volts due to the way they were designed. Those diodes can burn out too.

[FlatheadTed]

Using your stock Amp gauge is fine for what your trying to achieve ,We just worked on one 3 brush that had a fire truck generator producing about 45 Amps even the std 32 through 38 could produce 30 Amps ,we wanted to charge his 12 volt battery using a diode so had to cut it back to 10 Amps ,If you use a Diode drill some holes in the can to assist with cooling ,I prefer the 3 brush as opposed to two because the repoped regulators give trouble Ted

[uncle buck]

Thanks guys. Based on testing it like Ted says , I likely have a faulty generator.

[Brian]

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Possibly you have, however, try this; slip the cover band off. Standing on the drivers side, reach in the window facing you and push the third brush down as far as it will go. Repeat Ted's test. See if it now charges.

[uncle buck]

Originally Posted by Brian

Possibly you have, however, try this; slip the cover band off. Standing on the drivers side, reach in the window facing you and push the third brush down as far as it will go. Repeat Ted's test. See if it now charges.

I'll try that tonight when I get home. I already have the band off.
Thanks

[koates]

Disconnect the wire out of the top of the generator from the cut out rear terminal. Connect your voltmeter (multimeter set on 20 volts DC)to that generator wire and the other meter test lead to a good ground. Start and run engine up to around 2000 RPM and you should have some good volts like 15 or 20 plus. If the voltage is zero or only 2 or 3 volts then the generator is faulty and needs to be dismantled for closer inspection and repair. Regards, Kevin.

[B-O-B]

Good armature rewinder.
John Buchanan
Eurton Electric Co., Inc.
9920 Painter Ave
Whittier CA 90605

[FlatheadTed]

The demise of these Generators is often caused by the cut out sticking or failing, so if you opt for a can type Diode consider having a second one in the line as a back up ,Ted

[uncle buck]

Originally Posted by koates

Disconnect the wire out of the top of the generator from the cut out rear terminal. Connect your voltmeter (multimeter set on 20 volts DC)to that generator wire and the other meter test lead to a good ground. Start and run engine up to around 2000 RPM and you should have some good volts like 15 or 20 plus. If the voltage is zero or only 2 or 3 volts then the generator is faulty and needs to be dismantled for closer inspection and repair. Regards, Kevin.

Thanks Koates ! I did that last night and got 21 volts output. It looks like the original cutout failed