Problem wiring brake light switch

[qmdv]

I had a new pressure activated brake light switch on the shelf that tested good so I installed it when putting hydraulic brakes on my 32. I just tried to wire it this morning and my problem is that it looks like it takes a barrel connector. I have a bunch of 5/32 female barrel connectors but they are too small. The male ends on the switch measure .210. Never seen a barrel connector that big. I would just change the switch but I already bled the brakes

[Ggmac]

Is the end of the barrel threaded ? I think they take a screw in the end .

[Ken/Alabama]

What I do is solder a pigtail on each terminal on the switch then solder on a male bullet connector on the other end of the pigtail then plug it on.

[qmdv]

Not threaded but hollow. Also it is split and has ridges

[tubman]

"The Brillman Company" has a lot of odd electrical connectors. You might want to look on their website.

[Flathead Fever]

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Ford used those bullet connectors all over the place on the early Mustangs. The very early '64 1/2 Mustangs used a brake light switch screwed directly into the master cylinder. Then in '65 they switch to a mechanical brake light switch under the dash. They both had a tendency to get stuck in the on position. There is a low pressure and high pressure version of that switch. If you find that the brake lights are getting stuck on switch to the higher pressure activated switch and that will solve your problem.

You should be able to change the switch without bleeding the entire system, if your fast. Leave it loose and have someone gently step on the brakes until fluid comes out the threads then tighten it up. If the master cylinder is higher than the switch you can just take the cap off the master cylinder and let it gravity bleed at the switch.

I found you this little harness that was used with the '64 1/2 Mustang power brake option. Ford had to lengthen the harness to reach the brake light switch since the brake booster moved the master cylinder further out from the firewall. There are several versions of the terminals on these Ford switches, The correct switch to go with this '64 harness will have bullet connectors like the ones in the photo.

https://missourimustang.com/1964-pow...xtension-lead/

[Mart]

I Took some regular female blade connectors and opened them up with a screwdriver and reshaped them to slide over the male bullets (approximately tubular shape). I used heatshrink tube to cover and protect them and they work really well.

Mart.

[TJ]

Originally Posted by qmdv

Not threaded but hollow. Also it is split and has ridges

Did you try one of the female sleeves from an old bullet connector to see if it would slip over the contacts?

[tubman]

The pictures aren't very clear, but the connectors on your switch seem to lack the proper external contours to be male bullet connectors. Perhaps they are female connectors. Have you tried to slip a male connector into the female one?

I can't believe that I just said that!

[qmdv]

Originally Posted by tubman

The pictures aren't very clear, but the connectors on your switch seem to lack the proper external contours to be male bullet connectors. Perhaps they are female connectors. Have you tried to slip a male connector into the female one?

I can't believe that I just said that!

It does not have the bumps on the bullet and it is oversize. Bullet are hollow so I tapped them to 8-32. Problem solved.