The Ford Barn

Licensed to kill · 09-20-2018, 09:30 AM

As many know, I'm working on a '31 130B DD. It has VERY little rust overall, a bit on the bottom of the cowl and a few small spots in the rear wheel wells. Very minor and easy to repair. However, the only other rust is quite bad. It's rusted bad along the "stitching" (for lack of a better term) along the top of the quarters where the drip rail goes. It is quite pitted on the top cried part that will be under the top material and is not a big concern but the depression with the slots for the drip rail screws to go is bad. There are stretches for several inches with no metal left so rather than having a series of 3/4" slots (or whatever size they are) there is a 6-7 inch void. This will all be covered by the roof material and drip rails of course. I have no idea how to repair this area or even if I NEED to repair it. This can't be the only "A" to have this area rusted out so, is there a way to repair it or is it best to just clean the rust, put a rust preventive on it and leave it?. Thoughts?. This has been stressing me out for 2 years and, other than figuring out how to put all the wood back together, is the only part of the project that has me vexed.

bigd1101 · 09-20-2018, 10:23 AM

I restored a few vehicles over the years and the two things that play into any resto.....time and money. I've always cut out the bad and welded in good metal. A's seem to have a lot of replacement panels, but being a new A owner I'm not sure what there is that would replace what you are missing or is rusted. I do know, rust is a like a cancer and will come back over time if not cut out. It's all about what you want as far as a finished product.

Phil Brown · 09-20-2018, 11:02 AM

The correct way to do it is to cut it out and weld in the new sections, then you know that that rust cancer is gone. most other types of repairs that I've seen are just patches that continue to rust away. might look good on the surface but it's not going to last. For the area that you're talking about to repair if no patch panels are available you might have to source out the patch panel from a donor car or if a good one is hard to find you might just have to have it made by someone whos good with sheet metal

WHN · 09-20-2018, 11:56 AM

Remember Jack Nicholson in the movie The Shining? “I’m back”.

If you don’t cut out the rust, your going to revisit the movie.

Our 29 was done in 1981, knock on wood, no sign of rust.

Need a good paint job also. Back and front. Enjoy.

30 Closed Cab PU · 09-20-2018, 12:51 PM

Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements)

Have yet to research on the Barn. One of many subjects I want to look into.

Have heard that adding Zinc bars attached to the frame, slow down/stopping rust?

I believe ships and water heaters use them as sacrificial anodes.

09-20-2018, 09:30 AM	#1
Licensed to kill Senior Member Join Date: Aug 2016 Location: Alberta Posts: 930	Rust repair conundrum As many know, I'm working on a '31 130B DD. It has VERY little rust overall, a bit on the bottom of the cowl and a few small spots in the rear wheel wells. Very minor and easy to repair. However, the only other rust is quite bad. It's rusted bad along the "stitching" (for lack of a better term) along the top of the quarters where the drip rail goes. It is quite pitted on the top cried part that will be under the top material and is not a big concern but the depression with the slots for the drip rail screws to go is bad. There are stretches for several inches with no metal left so rather than having a series of 3/4" slots (or whatever size they are) there is a 6-7 inch void. This will all be covered by the roof material and drip rails of course. I have no idea how to repair this area or even if I NEED to repair it. This can't be the only "A" to have this area rusted out so, is there a way to repair it or is it best to just clean the rust, put a rust preventive on it and leave it?. Thoughts?. This has been stressing me out for 2 years and, other than figuring out how to put all the wood back together, is the only part of the project that has me vexed.

09-20-2018, 10:23 AM	#2
bigd1101 Senior Member Join Date: Aug 2018 Location: Ithaca Posts: 345	Re: Rust repair conundrum I restored a few vehicles over the years and the two things that play into any resto.....time and money. I've always cut out the bad and welded in good metal. A's seem to have a lot of replacement panels, but being a new A owner I'm not sure what there is that would replace what you are missing or is rusted. I do know, rust is a like a cancer and will come back over time if not cut out. It's all about what you want as far as a finished product.

09-20-2018, 11:02 AM	#3
Phil Brown Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Santee Calif. Posts: 508	Re: Rust repair conundrum The correct way to do it is to cut it out and weld in the new sections, then you know that that rust cancer is gone. most other types of repairs that I've seen are just patches that continue to rust away. might look good on the surface but it's not going to last. For the area that you're talking about to repair if no patch panels are available you might have to source out the patch panel from a donor car or if a good one is hard to find you might just have to have it made by someone whos good with sheet metal

09-20-2018, 11:56 AM	#4
WHN Senior Member Join Date: Mar 2017 Location: Connecticut Shoreline Posts: 1,821	Re: Rust repair conundrum Remember Jack Nicholson in the movie The Shining? “I’m back”. If you don’t cut out the rust, your going to revisit the movie. Our 29 was done in 1981, knock on wood, no sign of rust. Need a good paint job also. Back and front. Enjoy. Last edited by WHN; 09-20-2018 at 02:53 PM.

09-20-2018, 12:51 PM	#5
30 Closed Cab PU Senior Member Join Date: Aug 2018 Posts: 2,332	Re: Rust repair conundrum Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements) Have yet to research on the Barn. One of many subjects I want to look into. Have heard that adding Zinc bars attached to the frame, slow down/stopping rust? I believe ships and water heaters use them as sacrificial anodes.