16 inch wheels

[LarryinWA]

Thinking about putting 16 inch wire wheels on my 29 coupe.
What is a good tire that does not break the bank?

[CarlG]

Whatever you can get at Sams Club or Costco in the size you want.

[Gary WA]

Just bought 16's from Lucas tire out of California 147.00 ea. Best deal I could find. Black wall

[Ross/Kzoo]

I got BFG's from Coker.

[1931 flamingo]

Many run a radial and probably for less than $147 each, 35 wires can be run tubeless. Not orig (neither is 600x16, but functional and look good. JMO FWIW
Paul in CT

[whirnot]

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Originally Posted by LarryinWA

Thinking about putting 16 inch wire wheels on my 29 coupe.
What is a good tire that does not break the bank?

If you do, I might be interested in a couple of your 21 inch wheels. PM if so.

[Charlie Stephens]

Remember that 600-16 will be a tight fit in the fender well. You may need to let the air out and car and carry a tire pump. An alternative might be to buy a smaller tire for the spare.

Charlie Stephens

[glenn in camino]

Sorry, I know I've said this a few times in the past, but, 16 inch wheels and tires will make your Model A look funny!

[Vanspeed]

My 29 Coupe has 16 inch wires, 7.50 on the back and 6.50 on the front. Doesn't look funny to me. To me fatter tires make it look like it won't fall over in a strong wind.

[Skrain]

Silly question, but do the Ford 16" wheels just bolt right on?

[Bill in SoCal]

Originally Posted by Skrain

Silly question, but do the Ford 16" wheels just bolt right on?

Yes.

[Charlie Stephens]

Originally Posted by Skrain

Silly question, but do the Ford 16" wheels just bolt right on?

All of the '28 (except AR) through '35 wire wheels bolt right on to the mechanical hubs/drums. You cannot run solid wheels on the mechanical hubs/drums or wire wheels on the later ('40-'48) hydraulic hubs/drums without adapters.

Charlie Stephens

[Skrain]

I wish I had known that earlier! There was a set of them at the Louisville swap meet last weekend that were reasonably priced...

[quickchange]

Down under am running 205 80 radials these are 8ply so no tire roll. touota p/u,s have them as sure other models do. Been scoring them for $100.00 each which is $82 usd. Dealers take them of new vehicles as cockies want mud grips, Much better than cross ply,s. Summer is here.

[Doug in NJ]

Originally Posted by 1931 flamingo

Many run a radial and probably for less than $147 each, 35 wires can be run tubeless. Not orig (neither is 600x16, but functional and look good. JMO FWIW
Paul in CT

What would happen if you tried to use 21" or 19" wheels and the matching tires without tubes? (Assuming that you could fit a valve stem to the wheel.)

Doug

[Tiny]

Originally Posted by quickchange

Down under am running 205 80 radials these are 8ply so no tire roll. touota p/u,s have them as sure other models do. Been scoring them for $100.00 each which is $82 usd. Dealers take them of new vehicles as cockies want mud grips, Much better than cross ply,s. Summer is here.

Do you have a pic of that? Sounds like a good alternative.

[slackcat]

Originally Posted by Vanspeed

My 29 Coupe has 16 inch wires, 7.50 on the back and 6.50 on the front. Doesn't look funny to me. To me fatter tires make it look like it won't fall over in a strong wind.

looks good.

[ronn]

looks funnY!

[newshirt]

Larry, here's an opinion to consider... with 16" wheels you will give up some of the uniqueness of the antique car. Here's why:

When people look at your car, they will instantly recognize the radials as modern. There's no way to change that; it's a fact and it will happen. So as they look over the car, they see mixed messages of "antique" and "modern" and often come to the conclusion that your car is not from the 1920's. There's something "off" about it, and although they can't put their finger on it, they believe this is a modern car. Some think it's a 50's hotrod. Some think it's a modern kit car. But few accept that it is an authentic 1920's car. There are too many mixed signals for the brain to accept. It must be modern.

So if you're okay giving up that uniqueness and "wow factor," the 16's would probably be awesome!

[Jordan]

I don't think most people put that much thought into it. It's not a psychological process. If they ask, just say you switched to a modern tire for convenience, price and better ride. I've traveled with a lot of people who had 16's, and the only comments I've ever heard were "Oh, that car as different size rims and this one". and then the owner says "yeah, these rims are off of a '35 instead of a Model A. They ride better, so I switched". And the person questioning doesn't really care. People were switching to different style rims and 16's in the era..... so i don't think they make a car look "modern".

I like the look of 19's better, but Im putting 16's on this week so I don't have to deal with those crappy tubes anymore. Plus, my 19's were almost worn out anyways. I do a lot of bigger trips, so it's also a piece of mind to know that if I have a blow out, or something tire related- I can just get to the next town and they'll have a tire that'll work.

[CarlG]

I've been toying with the idea of 16" wheels/tires. I have even gone so far as to obtain a set of 16" wheels with 19" centers, just in case I do decide to go that way. I know I can put on studded tires for the winter on the 16 inchers, not so with 19's.

[Tiny]

Carl
That's some dedicated Model Aing there.
I don't think that John Q Citizen will care if you run 16's 19's or 21's. A lot of people get too hung up on what others will think of their car. Its your car, the only opinion that should matter is yours, well maybe the wifes or the dogs. Looking out for you there Buster !!!
I run 17's. I think they look good and I had them. I considered 16's also, as I have a set of them too. My 19's are in sad shape only really good for rollers.

These are my Kelsey Hayes bent spoke 17's of the car in the garage in the left corner. I now have stock 33-34 straight spoke 17's powder coated black on the coupe

[newshirt]

Originally Posted by Tiny

I don't think that John Q Citizen will care...

True. John Q doesn't care. But he can distinguish antique from modern. (He's not stupid.) While he may not be able to articulate why one car looks "antique" and another looks "a little more modern" he still notices and wonders. Here's why:

We all see hundreds of radials every day. They are on every modern car. So when we see one on an antique car, we instantly know it's modern. That starts you wondering if they had those Toyo tires back then. Again, something's "off" but you're not sure what.

But in the end, it's really your choice, and what pleases you is all that matters. Opinions like this probably don't.

[Russ B]

Originally Posted by newshirt

Larry, here's an opinion to consider... with 16" wheels you will give up some of the uniqueness of the antique car. Here's why:

When people look at your car, they will instantly recognize the radials as modern. There's no way to change that; it's a fact and it will happen. So as they look over the car, they see mixed messages of "antique" and "modern" and often come to the conclusion that your car is not from the 1920's. There's something "off" about it, and although they can't put their finger on it, they believe this is a modern car. Some think it's a 50's hotrod. Some think it's a modern kit car. But few accept that it is an authentic 1920's car. There are too many mixed signals for the brain to accept. It must be modern.

So if you're okay giving up that uniqueness and "wow factor," the 16's would probably be awesome!

I have to differ with you on that. Very frequently folks will see my 1929 lightly rodded closed cab, mostly looking original, but lowered with 15" wires, black paint, black wheels and tires, often they ask about it, thinking it is an original, restored car. Even most older folks haven't a clue as to what they are looking at. Only us car crazy folks, and mostly only those of us over sixty might know. At least that is my observation.

Personally, I just don't worry what others may think. However, if I was building a car for points competition it would be the exact opposite and everything on a build would need to be focused on the opinion of the judging body and written standards.

[Pete]

Originally Posted by LarryinWA

Thinking about putting 16 inch wire wheels on my 29 coupe.
What is a good tire that does not break the bank?

Radials will ride and handle better.
"Good" is a matter of DOING YOUR HOMEWORK and deciding what is best for you.
When I need tires I check what Costco has and compare the same or similar ones at Les Schwab. It depends on the particular tire who is cheaper at any given time.

[Russ B]

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Originally Posted by Vanspeed

My 29 Coupe has 16 inch wires, 7.50 on the back and 6.50 on the front. Doesn't look funny to me. To me fatter tires make it look like it won't fall over in a strong wind.

Looks great to me.

This looks like so many A's when I was growing up in the late fifties and early sixties. 16" wire wheels and sealed beam headlights were the norm for an A still being driven regularly. So many cars that were driven through the WWII had these common modification as a necessity to be kept on the road.

An additional common mod was the use of the more readily available thirties pickup taillight, usually keeping a single light.

[CarlG]

A lot of the Model A's in the '50s when I first got mine even had steel wheels on them. I doubt that any of them had the "required" adapter/spacers on them to make them fit up right. If the bolt pattern fit, they got used. The '31 fordor I had back then came with steel wheels. I personally didn't like the way they looked. A friend of my Dad's had a trailer that was built from Model A parts and it had the correct 19" wheels/tires for my car. In fact he had 6 of them, all with tires mounted on them. He was all too happy to trade me (straight across) all 6 of them for the 4 steelies (with tires) that I had. I ran those till I sold the car in 1960.

[Charlie Stephens]

Originally Posted by CarlG

A lot of the Model A's in the '50s when I first got mine even had steel wheels on them. I doubt that any of them had the "required" adapter/spacers on them to make them fit up right. If the bolt pattern fit, they got used. The '31 fordor I had back then came with steel wheels. I personally didn't like the way they looked. A friend of my Dad's had a trailer that was built from Model A parts and it had the correct 19" wheels/tires for my car. In fact he had 6 of them, all with tires mounted on them. He was all too happy to trade me (straight across) all 6 of them for the 4 steelies (with tires) that I had. I ran those till I sold the car in 1960.

I agree that a lot of them were run without adapters. I remember riding in a friends Model and having a rear wheel come off while going around a corner. I can't prove it but thinking back I feel this was the reason.

Charlie Stephens

[chiliman]

well consider who cares what people think it's your car do what you like and enjoy life is to short Mighty Manfred gets 6.50 's on kellsey hays wide white to And Manfred has got his non stock brass Humming Bird cap on a full back cover of Restorer so I gess Jim Spawn thought he looks all right

[Brother Hesekiel]

My '31 came with 16" spoke wheels and 6.60-16 Firestones on all corners. The car rides well, but I personally think the 16-inch wheels give it a flair of Hot Rod. Put 5.50-16s up front and 7.50-16s in the back and you have the classic Hot Rod combo!

I was recently able to buy 4+1 fabulous 19-inch wheels, and I'll convert back to stock very soon.

Radials are a totally different animal entirely. I feel that they are changing the look of the car in a way that doesn't work well with an 80-some year-old car.
Just my 2 cents.

[Purdy Swoft]

My first model A had 15 in. mercury wheels and 7.60x15 whitewall tires. I never used adapters, I didn't think that they were necessary and still don't. I liked the hot rod look that it gave the old strip down. The wider tires make a big difference in ride and handling. I do prefer the look of original wheels on most of my model A's. If I found another roadster body, I would run it fenderless with big and little tires on 17 in. 33-34 wheels. Whatever makes the owner of the model A happy is really all that matters .

[Tinker]

Originally Posted by Tiny

I run 17's. I think they look good and I had them. I considered 16's also, as I have a set of them too. My 19's are in sad shape only really good for rollers.

The 17's look great!

Sometimes the 16's look too small on an Model A, sometimes that is. Mainly if a tall tire is not used. Just my opinion and I have put them on a Model A I once owned, so it's not just a keyboard critique.

[silversink]

I think the 16s make an A go from dainty looking to tough. It's a modification that is probably the easiest to reverse, do what you want ---I do.

[TDO]

There's a couple of guys in my club that are running 215/75R/16 , and there running them tubeless. they look good to me . If your using it as a driver I see nothing wrong with it. I'm running 16 on my 30 coupe and as soon as these tires where out I'll go with them to.

[Tiny]

Also forgot to add. The 750 17's in the rear of my car are also the cheapest overdrive I could get..

[Charlie Stephens]

Originally Posted by Purdy Swoft

My first model A had 15 in. mercury wheels and 7.60x15 whitewall tires. I never used adapters, I didn't think that they were necessary and still don't. I liked the hot rod look that it gave the old strip down. The wider tires make a big difference in ride and handling. I do prefer the look of original wheels on most of my model A's. If I found another roadster body, I would run it fenderless with big and little tires on 17 in. 33-34 wheels. Whatever makes the owner of the model A happy is really all that matters .

Purdy,

I am glad to hear you did not have problems not using adapters. I have included an article that I wrote for our club newsletter as to why I think you need adapters. After reading it and looking at the pictures people can form their own opinion. I for one use the adapters.

When you install wire wheels (1928-35 Ford and aftermarket Kelsey and Motor Rim and Wheel, I am not sure about AR wheels) you need to use a spacer to make the wheels have full contact (support) and avoid cracking when they are installed. The reason for this can be seen by looking at a Model A brake drum in the first photo. There is a raised area in the center that contacts the wheel when it is bolted onto the hub/drum. This same raised area was replaced with individual cast in/machined raised areas on the late 1931 and 1932-35 wheels (second photo, the exception being that the rear drum in late 1931 retained a cast ring shaped area). The 1940-48 drums were flat in this area as shown in the forth photo. The aftermarket spacer provides the raised surface to firmly seat the wire wheel and the third photo shows this spacer setting on top of the brake drum waiting for the tire and rim to be installed. Check to be sure your lug bolts are long enough to be used with the adapter. These spacers are available from MT Car Products as part # 5000, Speedway as part # 91065470, and Sacramento Vintage Ford Parts as part # 05199-8 as well as many other sources. This addresses the problem most likely to be encountered by the Model A Ford owner but there a few other related problems that might be encountered. Check your mechanical brake drums as some people grind of the ring (or individual cast in raised areas on the later drums) to run solid rims. If you want to run wire wheels on these modified drums you would need a spacer. The opposite problem is encountered when running 1940-48 solid rims on stock mechanical brake drums where a different spacer is required to make up for the fact that the solid rims expect to be mounted to a flat drum.

[john in illinois]

I have Coker radial 16's on my Tudor. They are the best driving tires that I have tried on my car.

John

[Jordan]

Put 16's on my car last week for a trip to Autumn Trails in Winnsboro, TX this weekend. There were 90 Model A's and a bunch of other old cars. I don't think my car looks half bad... plus I still have the 19's to put back on it if I want to. I have bias ply 16's coming from Coker for the spares, just don't have them yet.

[CarlG]

Jordan,
What size 16's did you put on?

[LarryinWA]

Thanks for all of the comments. When I bought the car in 1959 it had 16" solid rims with WW and little seal beam headlights so I drove it that way for years. About 20 yrs ago I converted the wheels to 21" BW and correct headlights. In 1962 driving back from Michigan to CA a New Mexico State Patrolman stopped me because he thought it was a hot rod and he did not think I could be going as fast as I was, maybe 50? When he saw the stock 4 banger under the hood he was surprised. I think he just wanted to look at the car!! So to say all of that I will be thinking hard if I want 16" on a driver.

[Jordan]

Originally Posted by CarlG

Jordan,
What size 16's did you put on?

now you're asking too specific of a question! I'm not sure... the car's back in it's hiding spot 45 miles from my school. Maybe my brother can check it out and let you know.

[Jordan]

finally got the spares in. Was bad lighting, but I don't think my car looks half bad with 16's. I prefer the look of 19's, but had to go with 16's for practicality purposes.

[insomniacshotrods]

Id like to put on some 16" wire wheels if anyone has a good set for a fair price. I think they look better than the 40 ford steel wheels that came with my car.

[John LaVoy]

Originally Posted by Doug in NJ

What would happen if you tried to use 21" or 19" wheels and the matching tires without tubes? (Assuming that you could fit a valve stem to the wheel.)

Doug

We have done this with 21" wheels. Back in 2008 on our Summer Tour to Texas the tubes that Coker was selling were coming apart. I got caught in the middle of no where when the first one went bad and put the spare on but thought I should fix the problem some how since I was pulling a Mullins trailer with 21" wheels on that and my one spare was now flat. Saw a tire shop went in and they helped me put a stem in the wheel and reinstall the tire with no tube. Worked all the way home. Two more of the 7 tubes went bad and I am still running one with out a tube on the trailer now. Coker did replace all the tubes at no charge! I just haven't taken the time to change out the last tube and am curious as to how long it will work that way.

[junk yard kid]

I got 16 inch wheels on my hot rod a. I put 195/80 r16 tires on it. Made by bridgestone or yokohama i think. There for electric vehicles but that doesnt matter cause its still a tire. Diamond back uses the yokohama for their purposes. Cheap and what an improvement. Same they dont look like bias. I decided based on some old threads on here.

[Spokes]

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I have had "16's" on several "A" over the years, P.U., Coupe and 2-dr Sedan. I liked the "Look" ,ride and handling.

[BILL WILLIAMSON]

Originally Posted by glenn in camino

Sorry, I know I've said this a few times in the past, but, 16 inch wheels and tires will make your Model A look funny!

Well, jist look in a mirror, Glenn, meybe YOU look FUNNY too! Buster T.

[johnsor]

I have 16" Firestone WW on my 30 Deluxe Roadster. I don't really care if other's like them or not. I LIKE THEM, plus they give a much better ride and are more stable at higher speeds on the road.

[silversink]

16s is what I'm running and I like them, just got to lower the car a bit.

[gtovet49]

I like the look. Brings back memories. In the mid 60's, I drove the family '31 Model a coupe to high school. It had 16" steel rims with chrome baby moons. Before me driving it, Dad drove it 30+ miles to work - one way. I still have the car.

[Lorenzo]

Jordan is right, Slackcat, about those wheels being applied to Model As ever since 1935. My 45B was, and had been for years, wearing them when I acquired it in 1959. And except for some excess air 'twixt tires and fenders, you are right about looks good. Looks much more stable. Of course, you could arrange for much less air 'twixt the running boards and the ground too, for a fix, but that would just make it look even younger and even more stable. Who wants that?

[Lorenzo]

Jordan is right, Slackcat, about those wheels being applied to Model As ever since 1935. My 45B was, and had been for years, wearing them when I acquired it in 1959. And except for some excess air 'twixt tires and fenders, you are right about looks good. Looks much more stable. Of course, Vanspeed could arrange for much less air 'twixt the running boards and the ground too, but that would just make it look even younger and even more stable. Who wants that?

[Lorenzo]

Hey, I'll say that again...

[donQ]

Many folks switched to the 16's when they became a common tire in the 40's. One fellow I ran into who had a 32 swore that his 16 inch wheels were the stock wheels from 1932. The comment about the 16's fitting in the wheel wells is very true. Even a 18 inch(1932) wheel won't fit fully inflated.
donQ

[13clicks]

Radial tires are the best way to ruin a vintage car... if you want to drive a modern car just drive a modern car... the reason you buy or build a vintage car is to feel and look like it was back when it was in its day. Don't get butthurt its just my opinion.

[CarlG]

After a lot of consideration going every which way but loose, I settled on Coker Radials, 550R19. Couldn't be happier.

[30 Closed Cab PU]

VanSpeed - very interesting, I like it. Kinda - don't mess with me and stay out of my way.


Here is another recent post/string about 16s


https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showthread.php?t=250863

[duke36]

Replaced the 16's that came with our car. Installed stock 19". The 16's had a 5" + tire foot print, while the 19's are 3 1/2" or so and easier to steer @35 psi. The 16's had no spacers on the drums.

[1929]

Originally Posted by silversink

I think the 16s make an A go from dainty looking to tough. It's a modification that is probably the easiest to reverse, do what you want ---I do.

Agree

[Chris Haynes]

Originally Posted by Bill in SoCal

Yes.

Yes but! You must use a spacer to get the rim to sit correctly on the brake drum.
https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Speed...port,5846.html

[Chris Haynes]

Originally Posted by Charlie Stephens

All of the '28 (except AR) through '35 wire wheels bolt right on to the mechanical hubs/drums. You cannot run solid wheels on the mechanical hubs/drums or wire wheels on the later ('40-'48) hydraulic hubs/drums without adapters.

Charlie Stephens

Charlie, I disagree. The mounting flange around the center of the brake drum on a model A is much smaller that that on a 1935 drum. Therefore the center part of the rim has nothing to seat on.
Speedway has the adapter you need. In days gone by I have seen piston rings spot welded to drums to provide a seat.
https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Speed...port,5846.html

[30 Closed Cab PU]

Have not had my 16s off since they were put on by someone else. Not sure if I have spacers. What happens spacer not used? Symptoms?

[Charlie Stephens]

Originally Posted by Chris Haynes

Charlie, I disagree. The mounting flange around the center of the brake drum on a model A is much smaller that that on a 1935 drum. Therefore the center part of the rim has nothing to seat on.
Speedway has the adapter you need. In days gone by I have seen piston rings spot welded to drums to provide a seat.
https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Speed...port,5846.html

Chris,
You read to fast. The last part of my post says "You cannot run solid wheels on the mechanical hubs/drums or wire wheels on the later ('40-'48) hydraulic hubs/drums without adapters." I chose to call the spacers "adapters" because they do more than space, they provide support and adapt the wheel to the hub. To fine tune my statement I probably should have said "should not" instead of "cannot" because you can bolt them on and run them until you have problems.

Here is a post that illustrates the problem the spacers (adapters) solve: https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showt...=1#post1286293

Charlie Stephens

[Charlie Stephens]

Originally Posted by 30 Closed Cab PU

Have not had my 16s off since they were put on by someone else. Not sure if I have spacers. What happens spacer not used? Symptoms?

When you remove the rims you may find cracks starting to form in the lug nut holes. I don't think I would want to wait until what happens next.

Charlie Stephens

[Chris Haynes]

Originally Posted by 30 Closed Cab PU

Have not had my 16s off since they were put on by someone else. Not sure if I have spacers. What happens spacer not used? Symptoms?

The center of the rim hub will be pulled inward too far causing cracking and distortion.

[Chris Haynes]

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Charlie Stevens. Your post on your link says "The wire wheels from ‘28 (I am not sure about the AR wheels) through ‘35 are designed to mount on a surface that has 2 levels." What you don't say is that the circumference of this level on 1935 rims is larger than that used on a Model A.

[Charlie Stephens]

Originally Posted by Chris Haynes

Charlie Stevens. Your post on your link says "The wire wheels from ‘28 (I am not sure about the AR wheels) through ‘35 are designed to mount on a surface that has 2 levels." What you don't say is that the circumference of this level on 1935 rims is larger than that used on a Model A.

I didn't realize that it was, thanks for the info. Are you trying to say the '35 wheels require a different adapter/spacer from the other wire wheels? I don't believe that is correct.

Charlie Stephens

[Kahuna]

I looked at a wonderful Model A coupe:
It had 18" rims front & rear. In the rear, the rims
were widened about 3" .

[Bob Bidonde]

1932 18-inch wheels look better in my opinion. The improvement in the ride is fantastic.

[Bob Bidonde]

The improvement in the ride, and the removable hubcaps are fantastic features of later V8 wheels.

[Richardt2k]

Originally Posted by Gary WA

Just bought 16's from Lucas tire out of California 147.00 ea. Best deal I could find. Black wall

What size tires on the black 4door? Front and rear. And did you lower the front?
Love the stance.

[Richardt2k]

I pick up 4. 16s wheels. Was thinking about going 600x16 on the front and650x16 on the read with 4inch drop front and reverse eye loop rear spring. Drop the hole car but still have a stock look.

[Chris Haynes]

Originally Posted by Richardt2k

I pick up 4. 16s wheels. Was thinking about going 600x16 on the front and650x16 on the read with 4inch drop front and reverse eye loop rear spring. Drop the hole car but still have a stock look.

My 1930 Tudor has 750x16 rear and 600x16 front with stock axle. I am in the process of changing front axle to give a 2" drop. New rear spring from Posies will drop the rear 2".

[Richardt2k]

Originally Posted by Chris Haynes

My 1930 Tudor has 750x16 rear and 600x16 front with stock axle. I am in the process of changing front axle to give a 2" drop. New rear spring from Posies will drop the rear 2".

I like it. Where do you get a 2 inch front drop axle? And spring?

[steve s]

Originally Posted by gtovet49

I like the look. Brings back memories. In the mid 60's, I drove the family '31 Model a coupe to high school. It had 16" steel rims with chrome baby moons. Before me driving it, Dad drove it 30+ miles to work - one way. I still have the car.

no baby moons (too expensive) but same deal on my town sedan.

Originally Posted by 13clicks

Radial tires are the best way to ruin a vintage car... if you want to drive a modern car just drive a modern car... the reason you buy or build a vintage car is to feel and look like it was back when it was in its day. Don't get butthurt its just my opinion.

I would agree if only roads and traffic conditions could be re-created too. New 19" radials are pretty close in appearance to originals.

Originally Posted by CarlG

After a lot of consideration going every which way but loose, I settled on Coker Radials, 550R19. Couldn't be happier.

That's what I did. Had to change from 21" to 19" wheels.


FWIW here's some pictures of my car when I got it with solid 16" wheels and no w with 19" radials.

[Chris Haynes]

Originally Posted by Richardt2k

I like it. Where do you get a 2 inch front drop axle? And spring?

I am not using a dropped axle. I am using a '32-'36 axle and a reversed main spring leaf.