clutch/brake pedal bushings

[larry harding]

i just tried putting new bushings in my c/b pedals. these bushings are rolled rather than being just a bushing. when i pressed them in they want to overlap at the seam, more or less ruining the bushing, and making the bushing want to spin when i try to ream them. i have two sets of bushing drivers with drivers close but not exact fit for the bushings. i'm thinking of turning a driver that is closer to the diameter of the bushing and long enough to reach all the way thru. any better suggestions??

[bobbader]

Put a light chamfer on the end of the bushing before trying to install in the pedal. You can also "spread" the bushing slightly before inserting it into the pedal as this will lessen the tendency for the seam to overlap. Your theory of "dressing" the driver to better fit the internal diameter of the bushing and having it long enough to go all the way through is a really good idea. Go for it!

[Fhane]

I make all my own bushing drivers. The driver is a tad bit longer than the bushing in most cases. I clean and lubricate where the bushing is to be installed and press the bushing in. Much less reaming that way. Exact fit is the way to go. Turn your own.

[Brentwood Bob]

I have a stepped driver that gets it done.

[John]

Placing a hose clamp around the bushing will also help in installing the bushing.

John

[JayJay]

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Larry - Once you get the bushings in, try using a brake cylinder hone to sneak up on the right size rather than a reamer. For one, the brake cylinder hone doesn't put as much rotational force on the bushing, so you're less likely to spin the bushing within the pedal. And secondly, you can work the hone over less than the full length of the opening to relieve any local tightness.

While you have them out of the car, consider drilling the bottom of the pedals and installing grease fittings. You'll need to do your reaming/honing after you drill the holes as there will likely be some bushing material inside of the bore. If you drill the pedals before installing the bushings then don't forget to drill a hole in the bushings after you get them installed! (They guy who "restored" my '31 drilled the pedals and installed grease fittings, but didn't drill the bushings. Had a hell of a time getting grease into them until I figured it out.)

To install the bushings, I use a vise with copper covers over the jaws, no driver necessary. Works fine. Hardwood would likely work OK too.

JayJay

[Kinsley]

My pedals have what appear to be one piece bushings. The bushings I just purchased are two-for-one-pedal, each having a grease hole in the center. Two holes neither of which line up with the grease fitting.
It appears a couple of the vendors sell the two-for-one bushings without holes. Either set will require drilling a grease hole, Correct? Any tips on doing this would be helpful.


Thanks.

[Gene F]

Originally Posted by JayJay

Larry - Once you get the bushings in, try using a brake cylinder hone to sneak up on the right size rather than a reamer. For one, the brake cylinder hone doesn't put as much rotational force on the bushing, so you're less likely to spin the bushing within the pedal. And secondly, you can work the hone over less than the full length of the opening to relieve any local tightness.

While you have them out of the car, consider drilling the bottom of the pedals and installing grease fittings. You'll need to do your reaming/honing after you drill the holes as there will likely be some bushing material inside of the bore. If you drill the pedals before installing the bushings then don't forget to drill a hole in the bushings after you get them installed! (They guy who "restored" my '31 drilled the pedals and installed grease fittings, but didn't drill the bushings. Had a hell of a time getting grease into them until I figured it out.)

To install the bushings, I use a vise with copper covers over the jaws, no driver necessary. Works fine. Hardwood would likely work OK too.

JayJay

I put them in the same way. And if they are too snug to go on it is because I pushed a little lip on to the edge with the force, and I dress that up a bit with a rat-tail file. Reaming defeats the purpose of replacing the busing. These bushings do not really take a beating, and they need not be fitted to some exact tolerance. A little off the edge doesn't make a difference. If a person really, really, really feels the need a brake cylinder hone can be used.
My last set of pedals had grease fitting, but my current set do not have fittings. If you have fittings just double check your hole in the bushing to make sure it lines up with the zerk.

[JayJay]

Originally Posted by Kinsley

My pedals have what appear to be one piece bushings. The bushings I just purchased are two-for-one-pedal, each having a grease hole in the center. Two holes neither of which line up with the grease fitting.
It appears a couple of the vendors sell the two-for-one bushings without holes. Either set will require drilling a grease hole, Correct? Any tips on doing this would be helpful.


Thanks.

K - The bushings push in from either side and meet in the middle. If you’re lucky the slight gap where the bushings meet will be at the grease fitting hole that was drilled. That gap may or may not be enough to let grease go where it needs to go. So I drill my own hole in the bushing to be sure I can get grease into the gap around the shaft.

This same bushing is used where the clutch actuating shaft goes through the bell housing, that’s what the predrilled hole is for. Will work fine on the pedals even though won’t use that predrilled hole.

[Kinsley]

JayJay,
My sense is the way to proceed is, install the repo bushings, remove the grease fitting and drill the bushings in place. Should there be a dowel inserted to support the bushing when drilling?

[JayJay]

Originally Posted by Kinsley

JayJay,
My sense is the way to proceed is, install the repo bushings, remove the grease fitting and drill the bushings in place. Should there be a dowel inserted to support the bushing when drilling?

Certainly would not hurt to have a dowel in place, not so much to support the bushings but rather to minimize the amount of bushing material that is left inside of the hole once you drill it out. My recollection is that shaft is 1", so a 1" wood dowel would be great. I don't do that (but will try it in the future), I scrape out what of that material I can and then use a brake cylinder hone to polish the rest. You want the shaft to turn freely but minimal side-to-side play.

[Kinsley]

thanks JayJay