Brush on car paint (Rustoleum)?

[The "A" Team]

I'm looking to brush the paint on to my Model A Coupe, but can't find any brush on car paint here in the U.S. (I only saw a company that sells brush on coach paint in the UK). Does anybody know any brush on car paint brands? I've also been watching YouTube videos using oil-based Rustoleum paint where it's mixed 50/50 with mineral spirits and then either brushed or rolled on and then tipped.

If I use the Rustoleum paint, do I also need a clear coat? I've seen it done with and without it. I've also seen people do anywhere from 1 - 5 coats of the Rustoleum. I'm only looking for a low shine, so I'd probably use semi-gloss, but don't know if the paint will be ok by itself and how many coats I should put on.

I'm also rolling an epoxy primer on beforehand.

Thanks.

John

[ronn]

depending what you want for the end result, Ild use satin myself.
one coat over epoxy primer should suffice. some guys do add hardner. I dont.


yes you can clear coat it. all depends how far you want to go with it.

[RDVAARK]

Good for you! A lot of cars spent a lot of their lives brush painted. Why shouldn't a Model A be "restored" to how it looked at a certain time in its life-like the year the owner was born, or when you went on your honeymoon (TR Spitfire in multi-primer)? It could be brush painted (black primer 28 Tudor with zebra-striped lower body in high school),have blanket covered seats (41 Ford coupe with a nailhead and moving quilt seats), etc. (55 Ford with stock car markings,leaving for the Navy).
If a commemorative theme isn't what you want, there's always "patina", or "beater" or "built to work and last a lifetime" (62 Land Rover, Rustoleum with lacquer thinner and Transco generic hardener,rolled on).
For a nice quality job, look at marine and industrial painting (often done in not-spray-friendly circumstances). Seriously, search "Coach Painting" on Google for a classy English look. Or a third world ( Mideastern Jingle Trucks, Asian Floral and Religious decor, African Chicken Buses, Phillipine Jeepneys).
All of the aftermarket accessories, replacement parts and updates could be legimatised.
Bodywork, upholstery, paint and all could be considered as correct "as it was back in the day". "This is how it was when Pa drove it." "Here's the seat Rover always sat on".
Cars like this were always a lot more fun than pampered pets or delicate showpieces that I was afraid to drive anywhere. Dogs,kids,parking lots , even vintage off-road touring, gymkhanas, and mudbogs (see U-tube). Authentic barn find cars. Your opinion may vary.

[JoeCB]

Check out marine paint at Jamestown Marine Supply. I painted my wood Thompson several years ago using Interlux "Brightside" a single component urethane and it's still looks like new. Many other brands of "top side" marine paint there, as well as technical help.
Joe B

[Will N]

In the very early days of the auto industry, cars were almost always painted by brush. Of course, the bodies were made of wood at the time and the coating used was varnish, not lacquer or enamel. If you take the time to rub out the brush marks and polish the paint afterward, you can get a nice looking finish.

[The "A" Team]

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I'm seeing a couple of people here talking about marine paint. Would a marine enamel be easier/better? Does it require a hardener, or a clear coat. Also, what does the finish look like, do you think it would be too glossy?

Thanks.

[nkaminar]

Marine epoxy or urethane paint is very durable but is also very toxic. If you use this paint, please use personal protection devices (respirator, etc.). Otherwise, buy paint at the local automotive paint supply store (or online) and tell them that you want to brush it on. They will use a reducer that evaporates slowly so that the paint has a chance to level out. You can buy high quality brushes at art supply stores (or online). Buy paint that uses a catalysis or is a two part paint like epoxy. Otherwise gasoline or spilled solvent can ruin your paint job.

You can make the brushed on paint look as good as the paint on show cars. Wet sand the paint after it is thoroughly dry (cured). Start with 400 grit and end up in stages with 3,000 grit. Then machine polish and wax the paint. Keep away from the edges so you don't polish through the paint.

As with any paint job, preparation and the right paint, including the primer, is important. If you do use an enamel like Rustoleum, let the paint dry out in the sun for at least 2 weeks before any sanding. You can cure the Rustoleum in hours at 300 degrees using heat lamps or, for small parts, your gas powered outdoor cooker. When I use an enamel paint I put on 2 coats. The second coat has to go on within an hour of the first or you will end up with a crinkle finish. (Voice of experience here.) How many coats is really up to you.

For your Model A, especially a brush job, I would stay away from a clear coat. If you do decide to use a brushed on clear coat, wet sand the color coat with 400 grit paper and clean before the clear coat.

[ursus]

Originally Posted by JoeCB

Check out marine paint at Jamestown Marine Supply. I painted my wood Thompson several years ago using Interlux "Brightside" a single component urethane and it's still looks like new. Many other brands of "top side" marine paint there, as well as technical help.
Joe B

Jamestown Marine has videos and you can search Youtube under "roll and tip painting" for a number of videos on the proper technique. Most marine paints have some form of UV light protection because boats are typically moored or stored under full weather exposure.

[P_Moore]

Brush paint looks great! I couldn’t make it work so used enamel rattle cans [PHP]

[Johnnya101]

Check this page out

http://www.rickwrench.com/index79mas...llarpaint.html

[Flathead]

Tractor Supply has implement paint in gallons along with hardener and other compatible additives. Rustoleum is also a good choice.

[1931 flamingo]

I painted a 29 sport coupe back in the 50's (I was 13) with Rustoleum with a brush. No streaks. I've also used an Electrolux vac cleaner to spray red oxide primer.
Paul in CT

[WHN]

Originally Posted by 1931 flamingo

I painted a 29 sport coupe back in the 50's (I was 13) with Rustoleum with a brush. No streaks. I've also used an Electrolux vac cleaner to spray red oxide primer.
Paul in CT

Paul:

Your comments bring back many memories.

Enjoy.

[oldspert]

I used a spray attachment from my mom's Kirby vac to spray primer and implement enamel on my first model A back in 1961. The day was cloudy and high humidity but the paint laid out nice and smooth like lacquer. Thinned the enamel with mineral spirits before spraying.

[petew]

So a few years ago I was staring out of my office window watching a friend of mine roll and tip in a top coat on the hull of a 45' sailboat . I had never seen that done before and went out to question him on the process .
He simply rolled on the paint and then tipped it in with a very high quality brush . As the paint dried it self leveled and the following morning looked like a very nice spray job.
He said the paint was Awlgrip sold a the local marine store .
The results were very impressive .

[petew]

One of the qualities of Awlgrip is that it is a tough paint and will last years in the tough marine environment . My experience with Rustoleum is that it doesn't hold up well to uv exposure.

[Rusty Karz]

I used tractor paint from Tractor supply. The Black really shines if you add the hardener. I used a small smooth roller for large areas and a brush to get in tight places.

[Charlie Stephens]

From what I remember you can't put any other paint over Rustoleum paint, something to consider. Have you considered a cheap auto paint job, Earl Schieb ($29.99 most cars?) where are you when we need you? Be sure to consider using a small roller.

Charlie Stephens

[Dodge]

Correct. Rustoleum and the Tractor supply paint don't have UV protection and will fade out
if not parked in the garage when not being used.
I have rolled and tipped automotive paint, then color sanded it and it looks like it was
sprayed. The marine paints are also good but expensive they will flow out and look great.

[jeepguy1948]

FWIW I have Rustoleum on my ‘48 Willys Jeep and am quite happy with it. The only difference being that I used rattle cans. You Can re coat Rustoleum within an hour OR after 48 hours (per instructions on can and my own experience). You CAN apply other brands of pain over Rustoleum if it is fully cured (approx 2 weeks). 2nd coat within an hour is best but very difficult to do fast enough unless done in sections. I realize that an old Jeep see’s much harder and different use than a Model A but I love being able to just grab a rattle can for touch up (and I can but the paint anywhere that there is a hardware store, no custom mixing involved.