Windshield gasket replacement

[walkerlakeprinter]

Is there a safe "easy" (Ha!) way to remove the gaskets from a windshield? The rubber in mine on the bottom is rock hard and the metal is still intact but
with surface rust. I don't want to risk cracking the glass!! The rubber in the two side channels is still slightly pliable, but short of cracking. Also, there seems to be a screw near the top of the side channels....does that need to be backed out to put new rubber in, or what does the screw do?

[jw hash]

the easiest way is to remove the frame from the body, and lay the windshield face down on some padding and use a utility knife and cut out the lower seal. on the two screws do NOT remove them the seal gets out to go around them. pulling the new seal in can be tricky, I use some duck bill vise-grips and liquid dash soap.

[Ed Wendell]

Printer,
I was able to pull a tiny wire brush through mine to clean it out. I used RuGlyde (NAPA) rubber lube when pulling in the new gasket. IMPORTANT--let the gasket relax for several hours after you pull (stretch) it in place before you miter the corners or you may end up with a gap later on.
When you order the new gaskets don't forget the hinge gasket at the top, you will most likely want to replace it also.

[Tinbasher]

I always use a little Lacquer Thinners brushed onto both sides of the glass. Do this two or three times, two or three days before you want to take the frame apart. Then I use a hardwood block about 3" square and 1 1/2" high place it against the frame and hammer the frame off off the glass. I use a 4oz body hammer and just slide it along the glass to hit the block. Gently work your way around the frame and it will come of nicely with out distorting the frame or breaking the glass. It the glass is really stuck I'll run a razor knife between the frame and the glass to break the glass free. I've done it this way for 40 years, seems to work. Just go easy. JP Having re-read your question it looks like you want to replace the outer seals. With that again use the Lacquer Thinners on both side of the rubber seal and then use a small flat screwdriver that will fit into the channel and take out about 1" of the seal at a time. Just tap on the screwdriver lightly. If you have to you can open up the channels a little bit to get the rubber moving.

[walkerlakeprinter]

Ok, I purchased some lacquer thinner today. Now I am wondering the best way to apply it to both sides of the gaskets without making a mess. How does the thinner work? Does it soften the rubber? I have many screwdrivers of every size, so I can probably find one thin enough to pry the channels carefully apart a bit.

[Joe K]

Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements)

Its apparent you're removing the gasket AROUND the windshield frame - not the gasket (bedding strip) where the glass is set.

I think I would try cutting the flange of the gasket off close to the bulb. Then use a hacksaw blade and attempt to reach into the bulb and cut the bulb in two.

A woodworking back-saw would be ideal for this - and perhaps less likely to damage the interior of the bulb retainer?

I would lubricate generously with WD-40 - and try poking with a right angle probe to attempt to "pull" parts of the gasket along.



I could see a Dremel tool (grinder or saw) used for this too.

Joe K

[walkerlakeprinter]

Thanks! I have a woodworking backsaw and I have a good Dremel. I'll see what I can do with this. Good ideas!

[Joe K]

Originally Posted by walkerlakeprinter

Thanks! I have a woodworking backsaw and I have a good Dremel. I'll see what I can do with this. Good ideas!

X-Acto (the pen-knife people) USED to make a very fine toothed, very thin saw for model-makers. https://www.walmart.com/ip/Xacto-Pre...iABEgLnpvD_BwE



Might come in handy. Just the action of sawing might be enough to loosen things up. (Rust occupies 1.5 times the space than the metal it came from.)

Joe K

[walkerlakeprinter]

I was able to remove all the old gaskets with a narrow screwdriver. Lots of rust in the channels. I had to open the channels slightly, so I imagine I will have to tap them back at bit after the new gaskets are in. I sprayed brown Rustoleum primer into all the channels after I wire-brushed and used a very narrow cutting disk to get rid of some spots of heavier rust. I will use some of my trusty rattle-can gloss black rust preventive paint before I try to fit new rubber. So far so good.



Someone remind me again how to get the side gaskets in place with the nut seen in the close-up. What is the purpose of that particular bolt anyway?

[midgetracer]

That bolt holds the top of the frame to the bottom section. there is a tab on the top that slides between the bottom face of the frame.

[walkerlakeprinter]

Thank you. I hope I don't have to undo this bolt anytime soon. If I ever have to replace the glass, at least I know where to start. Again, thank you.

[31Cabriolet68-C]

I'm sure you don't ever want to have to replace the whole windshield... Who would?
Nevertheless, it's never going to be any easier than it is right now...
For safety reasons, it's a really good time to determine exactly what type of glass you actually have. Before you button it all up again...
The wrong windshield glazing is elective, just like seat belts... So, why die needlessly?
There is a thread on the Barn that discusses ways to tell the difference... Search for 'windshield glass' on the Forums.
My strong recommendation is to have a look at the info on the Barn, and then determine if the glass your windshield has is plate, laminated, tempered, tempered-laminated, or.....??? (Lexan?)

TallyHo!
John

[walkerlakeprinter]

Thanks for the reminder to check the glass.



Attached is a photo I took of the marking.

[burner31]

[QUOTE=Ed Wendell;1773019]Printer,


IMPORTANT--let the gasket relax for several hours after you pull (stretch) it in place before you miter the corners or you may end up with a gap later on.


Yep, I learned this the hard way
I will be changing both top and bottom seals again this Winter

[walkerlakeprinter]

Well...I have the gaskets in. Cutting the 45-degree angles at the bottom were a problem. But I made it work and super-glued the ends together. Now I have to install the gasket between the hinge and the header. It looks like I need to fit it to the header first, as the ends need to be angled. Then I plan to mark where the holes need to be for the bolts. I think I will use some 3M sticky spray to hold the gasket in position while I fit the windshield in place. Open to any ideas!

[walkerlakeprinter]

Success! Windshield is back in and closes/opens ok. Needs a little help in closing, but that should work itself out. I used a bit of super glue to tack the hinge gasket to the hinge, then drilled holes in the rubber for the bolts. The rubber held one of the middle bolts far enough for me to lift the windshield into place and put a nut on it to told it while I propped it up to get the rest of the bolts in.