Block Flush

[imacrazy]

What is the best way to flush a block after radiator has been cleaned?
Bill

[Tom Endy]

The attached article may be of help.


Tom Endy

[Bud Man]

I used that technique few weeks ago on a '29 that I rescued, and it seems to have worked fine, once I sealed off any leaks. Used hot water under pressure and liquid Cascade and a whole bunch off nasty crud loosened up to be sure. By the time I was done, the coolant appeared clear and relatively clean, but in the short time it has been running I am surprised what the Gano filter I installed on the new radiator outlet continues to catch. I feel pretty good because its stopped before it begins a new life in my new rad. :-)

[100IH]

I like that Bud Man credited Tom Endy's great article and that he followed through with a Gano filter and got even more crud. For the newer members, the rear pair of cylinders get less coolant circulation than the front two. Rust accumulates in the rear of the blocks water jackets to cause over heating there. The mass of rust after 80 years gets almost solid. I recommend that any time a head is removed, a speedo cable with frayed ends be used on a slow turning drill to mechanically break up the mass of iron particles through out the block with the flushing process. Many people have gotten enough rust to fill a 2# coffee can.

[Bud Man]

As an update of sorts, finding out that I need to monitor the Gano every two or three miles I drive the car as I shake her down because the filter is so efficient that the crud that refused to budge during the flushing is now loosening and clogging up the Gano in short order, with predictably unpleasant results. Lesson to be learned is if you are running a Gano make sure you have it configured in the outlet hose in a way where you can remove it fairly easily for cleaning. I love what it does, but in an application where you have a suspect motor (as I do), be prepared for a frequent cleaning regimen. It's a PITA, but the radiator is loving it!

[Bruce of MN]

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When you stop to clean the filter, has enough water boiled out that you don’t need to drain or spill any out ?

[Bud Man]

Bruce:

I mounted the filter exactly midway into the outlet hose, exposing about 1 3/4 inches of the filter for viewing. the lengths of the upper and lower portions of the hose allow me to easily remove and replace it after cleaning. When cleaning, I need to drain approximately a half gallon of coolant to allow it to reach a level slightly below the filter. Mine is the plastic housing version and we'll have to see how long it survives in its environment, but the visibility it offers versus the brass or aluminum versions is a big plus in my application, They are serious crud catchers to be sure, and their design ensures that nothing backflows into the system.

Bud

[Tom Endy]

I am not familiar with a Gano filter. Can someone explain exactly what it is, where it is obtained? A photo would help.


Tom Endy

[Davew]

Tom, this is their web site..
http://www.ganofilters.com

[California Travieso]

There is another filter called the Tefba. It seems to be easier to clean because it has a screw cap so you don't have to take the clamps off to clean the screen filter.

https://www.tefbafilters.com/what-is...ba-filter.html


David Serrano

[Tom Endy]

Interesting, thank you both.


Tom Endy

[Chris Haynes]

I drained and refilled my cooling system three times with RUST 911. After the third time the RUST 911 came out clean and clear. Removing the water inlet let me see my block was perfectly clean without a speck of rust. As I have a pressurized system in now use Evans Waterless Coolant. No water= no rust.
https://www.shopping.net/shopping?qs...broad&an=msn_s

[31Cabriolet68-C]

How much total liquid is there contained in just the water jackets of the head and the block alone? Not including the coolant in the lower return pipe or the radiator hose above the water pump, or the radiator? (Can't be much!?!) Thanks John