The Ford Barn

BILL WILLIAMSON · 03-08-2012, 04:54 PM

Will,
Congrat's Iffin' I had your car, I'd just do up the wiring, make 'er safe, scrub her good, and drive her to ALL the shows and feel REAL PROUD! Money can't buy that kind of patina!
THAT IS A REAL LOW MILER, AS THE ADVANCE KNOTCHES AREN'T EVEN WORN!!
Do you know what color blue she is? Mine is the same and everybody tells me a different name! I think "VERMIN" is Lombard Blue. Avatar pic looks 'sorta green. (not green!) My Ghost calls it BAFFLIN' BLUE. If I can find the +*^$%@+"$@ Ghost, I'm 'gonna spray him Ford engine green so he can't sneak up on me!! Bill W.

TinCup · 03-08-2012, 06:47 PM

Careful with that steel two blade fan. They have been know to go thru the radiator and the top of the hood.

Will Kimble · 03-08-2012, 07:08 PM

Hey Tincup - thanks for the tip, and you would really be scared if you saw the fan in person! My water pump is shot, too, so I will replace the fan and the pump at the same time. I know it isn't original, but I feel good about driving with the plastic fan.

Bill Williamson - I am not sure of the original color, this blue is not original. But it looks like it was originally blue from the spots I can see inside the doors. Not Andalusite, more of a chalky medium blue. My understanding is Lombard was the only other blue at the time? Not sure what Lombard looks like, I should do a search on that.

GW - thanks for the tip on the terminal box, I am getting ready to install a repro and will look it over carefully. It is amazing how many ways you can screw up such a simple car by using bad repro parts!!!! This car has a lot of nice original parts that I am not used to seeing, and I am enjoying cleaning them up and reusing them.

I have most of my goodie boxes in hand and am picking up a couple more items tomorrow. Hopefully I will finish up the wiring this weekend and will have some new pics.

Will Kimble
www.kimblemandolins.com

al's28/33 · 03-08-2012, 07:40 PM

Congrats on new Tudor!!!......be patient and test fit all the new stuff first to make sure before that final cinch down. Read and re-read all the manuals, maybe a midnight sneak into the garage to test fit another, wait for a nice warm sunny day to prime and paint any parts. Please keep posting and we'll help out.

BCCHOPIT · 03-08-2012, 08:26 PM

That's a sweet look-in car a little TLC
And you will driving the wheels off if.
Stock or Hot Rod
Have fun with it

Tom Wesenberg · 03-08-2012, 08:27 PM

Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements)

If you don't want to use an original fan, Snyder's makes a nice aluminum fan that looks like the original and IMHO looks better than the 6 blade plastic fan.

Pilotdave · 03-08-2012, 09:55 PM

When I mounted a repro terminal block, the terminal bolts came through from the back of the block, each set into a hole in the block. I used a leather punch to stamp out round pieces of rubber inner tube that would fit into the holes on the back of the block. Simple to do and should insulate the bolts from the firewall forever.

TinCup · 03-08-2012, 10:05 PM

I have installed several of Snyders 2 blade fans and they are a great replacement.

Vanspeed · 03-08-2012, 10:42 PM

I agree with Tom and Tincup, I just bought one of the aluminum 2 blade fans and it is nice, well worth the money.

Jim Huseby · 03-08-2012, 10:47 PM

Hello Will- That color combination and layout on the body looks good on a tudor. BTW, about a year ago there was a thread on the "barn" about bluegrass and Model A's with several people active in both.

BILL WILLIAMSON · 03-08-2012, 11:50 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Tom Wesenberg

If you don't want to use an original fan, Snyder's makes a nice aluminum fan that looks like the original and IMHO looks better than the 6 blade plastic fan.

BUT----Plastic fans don't "EAT YOUR ELBOW OFF!" They just go, "Brrr--Brrr" Bill W.

Will Kimble · 03-09-2012, 08:02 AM

Bill Williamson has got me wondering - what color was my car originally?

I took a closer look at the options in the Schild book and it appears Lombard blue was not an option for tudors until September of '30 and this car is from April. The only blue at that time was Andalusite.

There is no welting around the gas tank, is that a sign that the gas tank came out at some point? The cockpit area of the gas tank should be the same as the main body color, right?

Was the inside of the body (floor, inner door panels, etc.) always painted black or should it be the main body color?

The next time it is sunny I will spend some time loooking around and sand a few strategic places to see what turns up.

Will

RonC · 03-09-2012, 08:20 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Will Kimble

Bill Williamson has got me wondering - what color was my car originally?

Was the inside of the body (floor, inner door panels, etc.) always painted black or should it be the main body color?
Will

All the inside panels I have seen were body color

RonC · 03-09-2012, 08:25 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Will Kimble

There is no welting around the gas tank, is that a sign that the gas tank came out at some point? The cockpit area of the gas tank should be the same as the main body color, right?
Will

yes and yes

Your car was painted with the doors and gas tank installed

RonC · 03-09-2012, 08:30 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Will Kimble

I took a closer look at the options in the Schild book and it appears Lombard blue was not an option for tudors until September of '30 and this car is from April. The only blue at that time was Andalusite. Will

If your going to correctly restore the car you will need a copy of the Model A Judging Standards, the Model A Ford Paint & Finsih Guide 3rd Ed. and the Ford Service Bulletins. According to the paint guide your car could be painted Andalusite Blue, Lombard Blue, Kewanee Green, Copra Drab, Thorne Brown or Black.

Will Kimble · 03-09-2012, 03:41 PM

Thanks RonC, the inside of my car is all black and very original looking...

Will Kimble · 03-09-2012, 03:53 PM

Very sunny day here - it looks like the lower (inside) part of the gas tank still has the original paint, and it looks like Andalusite blue to me. The inner door panels look about the same. The inner panels that hold the rear window regulators look black to me, as does the floor.

Will Kimble · 03-10-2012, 05:15 PM

Got the wiring finished up today, here are a couple follow up pictures:

Some things you can't see - I took off the old muffler (in rusty chunks) and replaced it with an Aries, and I added a ground from the transmission to the ground strap bolt. Also replaced the distributor body, cap, condenser, rotor and adjusted the timing.

The car fired up instantly and runs really nice. I think I am still only about 75% on the carburetor and distributor, need to spend some time fine tuning them. But the car runs strong and starts easily, and will easily go faster than these rotting, out-of-round tires can handle.

I have always used an alternator in the past, but my friend Mac Van Pelt had some rebuilt Model A generators in his stash and I traded some trans parts for one of them. So far so good, gotta learn how to adjust the brushes.

I also got a NOS distributor body from Mac, maybe it was for a Model B because it pressed down on the spark arm when I first put it on. I filed that area down until it cleared and it fits great now.

I decided to separate the wiring into two steps - this took care of the engine stuff but I still have to do the light harness.

Next up is all of the coolant stuff - new water pump, fan and hoses. I still haven't settled on a fan, what are the pros and cons of the four blade fans like were used on Model Bs?

Thanks,
Will Kimble
www.kimblemandolins.com

1930ABONE · 03-10-2012, 07:15 PM

Looks great Will!...I really like that color blue.

columbiA · 03-10-2012, 11:10 PM

Wiring looks good on engine now!If I were you,I would replace the cheap ign switch & cable & buy a good quality switch that looks like a pop-out,but doesnt *pop*.you can also buy the heavy armoured cable that looks original under the hood but has a terminal on the end for the switch.The cheap switches are known to cause trouble.I never use the cable clamp on cyl head as it makes it a PITA to remove dist & it could cause coolant to leak into cyls.As for the fan,use the new aluminum 2-blade.It looks original,cools well & you can remove WP much easierThe 4-blade wont cool any better.When installing fan,use a thin hard steel washer behind the nut or nut will work into the softer metal & become loose.

03-08-2012, 04:54 PM	#21
BILL WILLIAMSON Senior Member Join Date: Dec 2010 Location: FRESNO, CA Posts: 12,560	Re: '30 Tudor Refresh Will, Congrat's Iffin' I had your car, I'd just do up the wiring, make 'er safe, scrub her good, and drive her to ALL the shows and feel REAL PROUD! Money can't buy that kind of patina! THAT IS A REAL LOW MILER, AS THE ADVANCE KNOTCHES AREN'T EVEN WORN!! Do you know what color blue she is? Mine is the same and everybody tells me a different name! I think "VERMIN" is Lombard Blue. Avatar pic looks 'sorta green. (not green!) My Ghost calls it BAFFLIN' BLUE. If I can find the +^$%@+"$@ Ghost, I'm 'gonna spray him Ford engine green so he can't sneak up on me!! Bill W. __________________ "THE ASSISTANT GURU OF STUFF"*

03-08-2012, 06:47 PM	#22
TinCup Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: OKC / Tonkawa, Ok. Posts: 1,977	Re: '30 Tudor Refresh Careful with that steel two blade fan. They have been know to go thru the radiator and the top of the hood. __________________ Oklahoma City Model A Restorers Group.

03-08-2012, 07:08 PM	#23
Will Kimble Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Posts: 165	Re: '30 Tudor Refresh Hey Tincup - thanks for the tip, and you would really be scared if you saw the fan in person! My water pump is shot, too, so I will replace the fan and the pump at the same time. I know it isn't original, but I feel good about driving with the plastic fan. Bill Williamson - I am not sure of the original color, this blue is not original. But it looks like it was originally blue from the spots I can see inside the doors. Not Andalusite, more of a chalky medium blue. My understanding is Lombard was the only other blue at the time? Not sure what Lombard looks like, I should do a search on that. GW - thanks for the tip on the terminal box, I am getting ready to install a repro and will look it over carefully. It is amazing how many ways you can screw up such a simple car by using bad repro parts!!!! This car has a lot of nice original parts that I am not used to seeing, and I am enjoying cleaning them up and reusing them. I have most of my goodie boxes in hand and am picking up a couple more items tomorrow. Hopefully I will finish up the wiring this weekend and will have some new pics. Will Kimble www.kimblemandolins.com

03-08-2012, 07:40 PM	#24
al's28/33 Senior Member Join Date: Jun 2010 Location: Redwood City, CA Posts: 1,591	Re: '30 Tudor Refresh Congrats on new Tudor!!!......be patient and test fit all the new stuff first to make sure before that final cinch down. Read and re-read all the manuals, maybe a midnight sneak into the garage to test fit another, wait for a nice warm sunny day to prime and paint any parts. Please keep posting and we'll help out.

03-08-2012, 08:26 PM	#25
BCCHOPIT Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Torrington, CT Posts: 609	Re: '30 Tudor Refresh That's a sweet look-in car a little TLC And you will driving the wheels off if. Stock or Hot Rod Have fun with it __________________ WAC that banger in the A$$ and drive it home hard http://waccustoms.com

03-08-2012, 08:27 PM	#26
Tom Wesenberg Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Mpls, MN Posts: 27,582	Re: '30 Tudor Refresh Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements) If you don't want to use an original fan, Snyder's makes a nice aluminum fan that looks like the original and IMHO looks better than the 6 blade plastic fan.

03-08-2012, 09:55 PM	#27
Pilotdave Senior Member Join Date: Oct 2010 Location: Grafton, MA Posts: 1,226	Re: '30 Tudor Refresh When I mounted a repro terminal block, the terminal bolts came through from the back of the block, each set into a hole in the block. I used a leather punch to stamp out round pieces of rubber inner tube that would fit into the holes on the back of the block. Simple to do and should insulate the bolts from the firewall forever.

03-08-2012, 10:05 PM	#28
TinCup Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: OKC / Tonkawa, Ok. Posts: 1,977	Re: '30 Tudor Refresh I have installed several of Snyders 2 blade fans and they are a great replacement. __________________ Oklahoma City Model A Restorers Group.

03-08-2012, 10:42 PM	#29
Vanspeed Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Suttons Bay, Mich. Posts: 3,384	Re: '30 Tudor Refresh I agree with Tom and Tincup, I just bought one of the aluminum 2 blade fans and it is nice, well worth the money. __________________ *Respecting and Resurrecting Ford Model A's.*

03-08-2012, 10:47 PM	#30
Jim Huseby Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Posts: 361	Re: '30 Tudor Refresh Hello Will- That color combination and layout on the body looks good on a tudor. BTW, about a year ago there was a thread on the "barn" about bluegrass and Model A's with several people active in both.

03-09-2012, 08:02 AM	#32
Will Kimble Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Posts: 165	Re: '30 Tudor Refresh Bill Williamson has got me wondering - what color was my car originally? I took a closer look at the options in the Schild book and it appears Lombard blue was not an option for tudors until September of '30 and this car is from April. The only blue at that time was Andalusite. There is no welting around the gas tank, is that a sign that the gas tank came out at some point? The cockpit area of the gas tank should be the same as the main body color, right? Was the inside of the body (floor, inner door panels, etc.) always painted black or should it be the main body color? The next time it is sunny I will spend some time loooking around and sand a few strategic places to see what turns up. Will

03-09-2012, 03:41 PM	#36
Will Kimble Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Posts: 165	Re: '30 Tudor Refresh Thanks RonC, the inside of my car is all black and very original looking...

03-09-2012, 03:53 PM	#37
Will Kimble Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Posts: 165	Re: '30 Tudor Refresh Very sunny day here - it looks like the lower (inside) part of the gas tank still has the original paint, and it looks like Andalusite blue to me. The inner door panels look about the same. The inner panels that hold the rear window regulators look black to me, as does the floor.

03-10-2012, 05:15 PM	#38
Will Kimble Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Posts: 165	Re: '30 Tudor Refresh Got the wiring finished up today, here are a couple follow up pictures: Some things you can't see - I took off the old muffler (in rusty chunks) and replaced it with an Aries, and I added a ground from the transmission to the ground strap bolt. Also replaced the distributor body, cap, condenser, rotor and adjusted the timing. The car fired up instantly and runs really nice. I think I am still only about 75% on the carburetor and distributor, need to spend some time fine tuning them. But the car runs strong and starts easily, and will easily go faster than these rotting, out-of-round tires can handle. I have always used an alternator in the past, but my friend Mac Van Pelt had some rebuilt Model A generators in his stash and I traded some trans parts for one of them. So far so good, gotta learn how to adjust the brushes. I also got a NOS distributor body from Mac, maybe it was for a Model B because it pressed down on the spark arm when I first put it on. I filed that area down until it cleared and it fits great now. I decided to separate the wiring into two steps - this took care of the engine stuff but I still have to do the light harness. Next up is all of the coolant stuff - new water pump, fan and hoses. I still haven't settled on a fan, what are the pros and cons of the four blade fans like were used on Model Bs? Thanks, Will Kimble www.kimblemandolins.com

03-10-2012, 07:15 PM	#39
1930ABONE Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Feeding Hills, MA Posts: 58	Re: '30 Tudor Refresh Looks great Will!...I really like that color blue.

03-10-2012, 11:10 PM	#40
columbiA Senior Member Join Date: Nov 2011 Location: B.C. Canada Posts: 1,746	Re: '30 Tudor Refresh Wiring looks good on engine now!If I were you,I would replace the cheap ign switch & cable & buy a good quality switch that looks like a pop-out,but doesnt pop.you can also buy the heavy armoured cable that looks original under the hood but has a terminal on the end for the switch.The cheap switches are known to cause trouble.I never use the cable clamp on cyl head as it makes it a PITA to remove dist & it could cause coolant to leak into cyls.As for the fan,use the new aluminum 2-blade.It looks original,cools well & you can remove WP much easierThe 4-blade wont cool any better.When installing fan,use a thin hard steel washer behind the nut or nut will work into the softer metal & become loose.