Front Axle to Radius Rod Bolts

[philipswanson]

I have to pull the radius rods on the front of my 40 wagon. How tight are those bolt fittings and nuts usually that go through the axle? Do you think I need heat? I am sure they have never been off before. Any advice from someone that's done this? The spring is already off.

[Newc]

Hi; Those can be brutal to remove. My best results involved heat on the axle and a press on the bolt... any hammering will make things worse... Still I have had to drill some out and replace with new. Newc

[Chris Haynes]

Apply Kroil liberally and let it sit for a day. Put a long wrench or socket with breaker bar on top and twist the bolt. Possibly a length of pipe on the wrench will help.
www.kanolabs.com

[19Fordy]

Also, try and impact wrench to "jar" them and break thru the years of corrosion. Then use the very long breaker bar. I mean, 4 foot pipe slid over the ratchet handle for lots of leverage. You may even break the socket so use a 6 point if possible. Keep applying heat and Kroil everyday. Do not be tempted to get out the sledge hammer.

[Kurt in NJ]

The nut is a special hardened nut (S18), the axle is heat treated, making it red with torch softens it ----I heat till the penetrating oil is smoking good, found a very thick nut and a bolt, used the nut to connect the bolt(perhaps 2 nuts welded together) , keep it tight, beat on bolt, even air hammer

[philipswanson]

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Originally Posted by Chris Haynes

Apply Kroil liberally and let it sit for a day. Put a long wrench or socket with breaker bar on top and twist the bolt. Possibly a length of pipe on the wrench will help.
www.kanolabs.com

There is no hex on top, only the fitting for the sway bar. Only hex is the nut on the bottom.

[RalphM]

I have burned, drilled, beat, pressed and pushed on them. But the best way I found is with an air hammer, the vibration really seems to help. And if you use a lot of penetrant, and a little heat, and are careful you can still reuse them. protect the threads

[john in illinois]

Heating an axle doesn't hurt it. Other wise you wouldn't have dropped axles. Just do not quench it.

I use a rosebud and air hammer much like this video if they are stubborn.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=09cQqRlOUVc

John

[tubman]

It's better to PULL the perch bolts out than to beat on them and mushroom the threads and ruin the bolts. Check out posts 3 & 17 in this thread on the H.A.M.B.

https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/...#post-10504766

[Andy]

I can fix smashed threads. I can back thread them if possible or build up with weld and then rethread. Reasonable,
I shot myself in the foot with a thread on the HAMB. I have a puller that pulls 28-34 bolts rather than pushing them. They come out easier than being wadded up pushing them. I have not done the later ones but would have welded a eye on them so I could pull them.
I actually have not done any since posting the thread. I wonder if no one is still smashing them??

[19Fordy]

tubman: That video puller tool is a great idea. Wish the maker had made sketches of its design.

[Andy]

I can post pictures. It is free to use if anyone is close. The work would have to be done here.
The original thread on the HAMB was titled " How to remove perch bolts with no damage"

[RalphM]

I had forgotten about that puller. That was definitely a slick way to get them out without damage Andy.

[Mart]

I made a puller based on Andy's post on the hamb. It has worked well for me. Heat does make it easier, though. I've had a couple that were already loose, the pin and axle were both worn.

Mart.

[john in illinois]

I had never heard of the puller. Looks like another good tool.

John