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06-22-2015, 03:36 PM | #1 |
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spring perch removal..Q
I am changing axles, or trying to !
Ok, guys, what is the way to best remove spring perches ? Bigger hammer, what |
06-22-2015, 03:42 PM | #2 |
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Re: spring perch removal..Q
A bigger hammer will make the job harder by mushrooming the end of the perch. I have a 25 ton press with a gauge and most of the perches I have removed let go at about 17 tons. Do not heat the axle with anything but a propane torch if you use heat at all. Put a hardened nut on the threads flush with the end to push on. It's kind of scary when it finally lets go with a big bang but it only moves about 32nd of an inch, but then you are able to push it out.
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06-22-2015, 04:56 PM | #3 |
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Re: spring perch removal..Q
I use an acedeline torch and heat the boss around the pin. Not too hot, but to a slight dull red. I then use an air hammer with a bit I made and they usually drive right out without ruining anything. Let both the pin and axle naturally cool and you are good to go. I have taken apart A LOT of front end assemblies and with this method I have never had one I could not get out
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06-22-2015, 05:22 PM | #4 |
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Re: spring perch removal..Q
Vern Tardel tips on how to remove spring perches.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=09cQqRlOUVc |
06-22-2015, 06:19 PM | #5 | |
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Re: spring perch removal..Q
Quote:
Do not have a hydraulic press and no torch. Will have to put the BFH back in storage, as you warn against that, eh. Yup, I can see the damage accumulate from hammer strikes. Hm, will have to buy a 25 ton press and a torch set up or ? |
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06-22-2015, 08:32 PM | #6 |
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Re: spring perch removal..Q
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06-22-2015, 09:16 PM | #7 | |
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Re: spring perch removal..Q
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06-22-2015, 09:54 PM | #8 |
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Re: spring perch removal..Q
I have a Snapon perch pin press that was made just for ford perch bolts Model A on up. Its in the original metal box with the instruction sheet. Pretty cool piece and ive never used it. I use a rosebud a punch with a pair of visegrips and a big hammer. Screw a nut on a few threads and take your time. Have had good luck and done a ton of them this way. Everyone has an oppinion on how not to do it
Takes heat to drop a axle, right? Common sense helps prevent further damage. Hands on experience goes a long ways too |
06-22-2015, 10:08 PM | #9 |
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Re: spring perch removal..Q
The owner of a frame and axle shop in Seattle (40 years experience) spoke at our V8 club meeting a few years back. They are able to cold bend big truck axles for alignment purposes. They know how much pressure it takes to bend car and truck axles (have a chart), that is their business. He said he could tell when a Ford axle had been heated up red with acetylene torch/rosebud because it would yield at about half the pressure of an axle that had never had that done. That is why I suggested a propane heat source if heat was needed. I have never had to heat one with my press to get perches out.
Any decent machine shop would have the ability to push those out for you. However, it is your axle and you can use any method that makes sense to you. |
06-23-2015, 12:53 AM | #10 | |
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Re: spring perch removal..Q
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06-23-2015, 08:14 AM | #11 |
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Re: spring perch removal..Q
I don't know how dropped axles are heated to drop them but I imagine they will "move" when heated to a dull red just like the steering arms I have heated to bend. In all my travels over the years around the mid-west, south to Tennessee, north to Minnesota, east to Ohio, west to Oklahoma and all points in between I have yet to see any movement or diminished quality in my very old Mor-Drop Model A dropped axle. I guess it must have been around 35-40 years ago (CRS) that cast malleable iron dropped axles hit the market but I stuck with my good old vanadium steel Ford dropped axle; yes, I know that auto makers produce lots of cast spindles and steering knuckles now but there is something about the piece of mind that comes with a forging, even one that has been heated and bent, albeit done properly. Bending axles cold for alignment is OK too but I wonder if that is done out of necessity? Might the heat be detrimental if it transferred to grease seals, shackle bushings and other components attached to an axle on a vehicle? A little heat, just a dull red, applied to the axle where the perch passes through will help break the bond of rust and the many years of being bolted together and I think might make removing that perch bolt just a bit easier. No heat and quench, just a slow cool. JMO.
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06-23-2015, 11:05 AM | #12 |
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Re: spring perch removal..Q
Hey Fordors, Thanks for you input.
Yeah, I've been schooled about cast vs forged old Ford axles. That led to meet up with 'Okie Joe' near the Pomona father swap/car show. Me and Fordbarn bud got two of Joe's dropped 4" Ford forged axles. They look ...well bent...hm bending up a perfectly good axle, go figure ! I gave Joe what looked to be a nos model a axle as core. He will contact model a 'restorer' with this piece...win-win-win, eh Ergo, I need these perches out of the original that is under my project. |
06-23-2015, 11:14 AM | #13 |
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Re: spring perch removal..Q
The truck guy may be right about being able to bend previously heated axles at lower loads than non heated ones, but the overwhelming evidence from years of hot rod modifications is that people can heat an early ford axle (in extreme cases for dropping) and the axle will be perfectly serviceable after. I haven't removed many perches, but did have success using some heat and driving the pin out with an air chisel (with a slightly modified punch). You don't need to worry about early ford stuff, it will take it.
When driving out the pins the axle needs to be removed so the driving force is downwards with the axle supported on a solid surface. You'd struggle doing it on a car on a ramp for example. Mart. |
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