The Ford Barn

Ken/Alabama · 11-20-2017, 06:56 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by philipswanson

If I had to do all that, I would throw it away and install a Ford 9".

Thanks Phil Swanson

Throw it my way !! If the pits do not go all the way across the surface it won't give any trouble. Been running one over 20 years like that . An old Ford mechanic gave me that advice.

tubman · 11-20-2017, 07:08 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by philipswanson

I did say the one on the axle and not the one on the hub. Is that so hard to follow??? Dah!

Dah? The "axle" and "axle housing" are two distinct different things. The surface you want to renew is on the axle housing, not the actual axle itself.

grumppyoldman · 11-22-2017, 11:44 AM

Right-on Tubman. I just finished doing mine, didn't pull complete rearend. Replaced right axle, all bearings and seals, and was 79 yrs. old. Some people are afraid to tackle any kind of job that takes a little effort. I like to have wore the creeper wheels off, going in and out from under the car, but had a blast doing it myself. Al

supereal · 11-22-2017, 05:37 PM

The housings must be machined to receive a hardened sleeve. It does require a lathe with a big swing to accomodate the housing, and exact machining to accept the sleeves as a press fit. Choose a very good shop, and be sure the sleeves are actually case hardened. At one time the market was selling soft sleeves which defeated the purpose pf the repair.

bbrocksr · 11-23-2017, 04:31 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by philipswanson

I did say the one on the axle and not the one on the hub. Is that so hard to follow??? Dah!

The bearing doesn't run on the axle it runs on the axle housing. Dah!

supereal · 11-24-2017, 05:22 PM

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Don't use a chisel or a grinder on the end of an axle housing, or it is likely it will be ruined. If you can determine that the housing has been sleeved, leave it to a machine shop to remove them. Some sleeves that were not hardened properly were sold in years past, and are failing. At our machine shop we won't touch jobs where the part has been damaged by someone trying to save money, because we then can't stand behind the work.

Terry,OH · 11-24-2017, 07:51 PM

Another way to have it done. If you know a crank shaft grinder.

cas3 · 11-24-2017, 09:37 PM

i was told years ago they are so hard you need to grind them like terry shows. seems mart had no problem in the lathe, i have some from john at columbia to install, i'll try my lathe first

philipswanson · 12-13-2017, 04:18 PM

What do you guys think about the HRW banjo kit using the Ford 9" axles in a basically stock banjo rear. $1100 tho. Worth it?

Phil

deuce_roadster · 12-13-2017, 04:51 PM

I have one in my avatar roadster that Wayne in Idaho did the work on back in maybe 1998. I ended up with a nice banjo looking rear end and axle housings and stock spring with 9" axles, bearings and brakes. Have over 6k trouble free miles on it.
I believe HRW is the same business and Wayne retired and sold to his kids or some other family relation and came up with that name.
I did this modification because I am putting more then stock power to the rear and I didn't want to wonder about the axles even though I have sets of NOS axles for my cars. I have stock axles in the cars with stock engines.

JSeery · 12-13-2017, 05:01 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by philipswanson

What do you guys think about the HRW banjo kit using the Ford 9" axles in a basically stock banjo rear. $1100 tho. Worth it?

Phil

I did the same setup (well similar) using the old 50s home brew method.

Seth Swoboda · 12-13-2017, 05:05 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by philipswanson

What do you guys think about the HRW banjo kit using the Ford 9" axles in a basically stock banjo rear. $1100 tho. Worth it?

Phil

Why not just take the axle housing off and have the old race machined and install a new race? Seems like a lot less expense. Also as others have said if the pitting doesn't go all the way across the race why mess with it?

V8 Bob · 12-13-2017, 05:22 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by deuce_roadster

I have one in my avatar roadster that Wayne in Idaho did the work on back in maybe 1998. I ended up with a nice banjo looking rear end and axle housings and stock spring with 9" axles, bearings and brakes. Have over 6k trouble free miles on it.
I believe HRW is the same business and Wayne retired and sold to his kids or some other family relation and came up with that name.
I did this modification because I am putting more then stock power to the rear and I didn't want to wonder about the axles even though I have sets of NOS axles for my cars. I have stock axles in the cars with stock engines.

I also had Wayne Atkinson convert the '40 rear in my '32 to 9" axles. Advantages are much stronger axles, easier maintenance and modern drum (or disc) brakes.

42merc · 12-13-2017, 05:26 PM

Phillip Swanson
If your concern is the groove & pits on the axle made by the inner axle seal, Dick Spadaro had a fix for the problem.
After removing the axle housing insert a new seal on top of the old seal. Yes leave the old seal in place add a new seal against the existing seal, this allows the new seal to ride on fresh spot on the axle.

JSeery · 12-13-2017, 05:26 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by V8 Bob

I also had Wayne Atkinson convert the '40 rear in my '32 to 9" axles. Advantages are much stronger axles, easier maintenance and modern drum (or disc) brakes.

And there is no danger of the axle breaking and loosing a hub/wheel.

john in illinois · 12-14-2017, 09:06 AM

This is HRW current kit. I used it for the safety factor plus less maintenance.

John

donald1950 · 12-14-2017, 09:43 AM

i had the Hot Rod Works semi floater axels on my 1941 ford Pick Up and it was a great conversion.... a bit expensive but well worth the cost in reliability. original conversion had the A/B motor and when i sold it 12 years later it had a hot 350 chev and a T5..... nothing ever caused problems. very high quality work done by them...

JM 35 Sedan · 12-14-2017, 09:54 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by philipswanson

If I had to do all that, I would throw it away and install a Ford 9".

Thanks Phil Swanson

Quote:

Originally Posted by philipswanson

What do you guys think about the HRW banjo kit using the Ford 9" axles in a basically stock banjo rear. $1100 tho. Worth it?

Phil

You may want to reconsider your earlier comment......if your going to all that work and expense to do a HRW axle conversion, you might as well go with a complete 9" rear.....and throw that original banjo rear away, or give it to Ken

deuce_roadster · 12-14-2017, 12:21 PM

I would think it would cost more to narrow a 9" and then deal with switching to an open driveline then it would cost to use HRW parts and retain torque tube and radius rods. I bet most folks couldn't tell the difference from stock unless they were real keen on identifying backing plates.
If philipswanson's car is stock, just fixing the original housings is probably the cheapest way to go.

JSeery · 12-14-2017, 12:32 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JM 35 Sedan

You may want to reconsider your earlier comment......if your going to all that work and expense to do a HRW axle conversion, you might as well go with a complete 9" rear.....and throw that original banjo rear away, or give it to Ken

I don't understand this comment at all. Putting a later open rear axle under an early car is not a simple or cheap undertaking and totally changes the appearance. An axle swap is no where near as involved and looks original.

11-22-2017, 11:44 AM	#23
grumppyoldman Senior Member Join Date: Apr 2017 Location: Texas Gulf Coast Posts: 727	Re: 40 Rear Axle Wheel Bearing Races Right-on Tubman. I just finished doing mine, didn't pull complete rearend. Replaced right axle, all bearings and seals, and was 79 yrs. old. Some people are afraid to tackle any kind of job that takes a little effort. I like to have wore the creeper wheels off, going in and out from under the car, but had a blast doing it myself. Al

11-22-2017, 05:37 PM	#24
supereal Senior Member Join Date: Jul 2014 Location: Iowa Posts: 1,634	Re: 40 Rear Axle Wheel Bearing Races The housings must be machined to receive a hardened sleeve. It does require a lathe with a big swing to accomodate the housing, and exact machining to accept the sleeves as a press fit. Choose a very good shop, and be sure the sleeves are actually case hardened. At one time the market was selling soft sleeves which defeated the purpose pf the repair.

11-24-2017, 05:22 PM	#26
supereal Senior Member Join Date: Jul 2014 Location: Iowa Posts: 1,634	Re: 40 Rear Axle Wheel Bearing Races Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements) Don't use a chisel or a grinder on the end of an axle housing, or it is likely it will be ruined. If you can determine that the housing has been sleeved, leave it to a machine shop to remove them. Some sleeves that were not hardened properly were sold in years past, and are failing. At our machine shop we won't touch jobs where the part has been damaged by someone trying to save money, because we then can't stand behind the work.

11-24-2017, 09:37 PM	#28
cas3 Senior Member Join Date: Jan 2011 Location: sw minnesota Posts: 4,571	Re: 40 Rear Axle Wheel Bearing Races i was told years ago they are so hard you need to grind them like terry shows. seems mart had no problem in the lathe, i have some from john at columbia to install, i'll try my lathe first

12-13-2017, 04:18 PM	#29
philipswanson Senior Member Join Date: Oct 2015 Location: Bonita, CA Posts: 1,374	Re: 40 Rear Axle Wheel Bearing Races What do you guys think about the HRW banjo kit using the Ford 9" axles in a basically stock banjo rear. $1100 tho. Worth it? Phil

12-13-2017, 04:51 PM	#30
deuce_roadster Senior Member Join Date: Oct 2011 Location: Shelton, WA Posts: 3,800	Re: 40 Rear Axle Wheel Bearing Races I have one in my avatar roadster that Wayne in Idaho did the work on back in maybe 1998. I ended up with a nice banjo looking rear end and axle housings and stock spring with 9" axles, bearings and brakes. Have over 6k trouble free miles on it. I believe HRW is the same business and Wayne retired and sold to his kids or some other family relation and came up with that name. I did this modification because I am putting more then stock power to the rear and I didn't want to wonder about the axles even though I have sets of NOS axles for my cars. I have stock axles in the cars with stock engines.

12-13-2017, 05:26 PM	#34
42merc Senior Member Join Date: Feb 2011 Location: Buchanan, MI Posts: 676	Re: 40 Rear Axle Wheel Bearing Races Phillip Swanson If your concern is the groove & pits on the axle made by the inner axle seal, Dick Spadaro had a fix for the problem. After removing the axle housing insert a new seal on top of the old seal. Yes leave the old seal in place add a new seal against the existing seal, this allows the new seal to ride on fresh spot on the axle.

12-14-2017, 09:43 AM	#37
donald1950 Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: san antonio, texas Posts: 461	Re: 40 Rear Axle Wheel Bearing Races i had the Hot Rod Works semi floater axels on my 1941 ford Pick Up and it was a great conversion.... a bit expensive but well worth the cost in reliability. original conversion had the A/B motor and when i sold it 12 years later it had a hot 350 chev and a T5..... nothing ever caused problems. very high quality work done by them...

12-14-2017, 12:21 PM	#39
deuce_roadster Senior Member Join Date: Oct 2011 Location: Shelton, WA Posts: 3,800	Re: 40 Rear Axle Wheel Bearing Races I would think it would cost more to narrow a 9" and then deal with switching to an open driveline then it would cost to use HRW parts and retain torque tube and radius rods. I bet most folks couldn't tell the difference from stock unless they were real keen on identifying backing plates. If philipswanson's car is stock, just fixing the original housings is probably the cheapest way to go.