My 1st decent drive of Model A and discussion

[M2M]

Originally Posted by Synchro909

I think just about all of the four cylinder, 3 main bearing engines of the day were weak at the middle main bearing. They were simply under done for the way we drive them today. To improve its longevity, I feel a counter balanced crank is the best (though expensive) option. Prfessure feeding oil to it helps. That puts more oil through the bearing, helping to prevent it getting too warm. Probably the easiest way to look after it is to keep the speed down.
I'm sure others who have played with this longer than I will have more thoughts.

Give me some figures. How many miles have you done on a rebuilt engine you have installed? Did any of the rebuild engines you fitted to your cars fail? If so, what happened?

[Synchro909]

Originally Posted by M2M

Give me some figures. How many miles have you done on a rebuilt engine you have installed? Did any of the rebuild engines you fitted to your cars fail? If so, what happened?

I have never rebuilt a motor with babbit. All of my engines run on inserts and the middle main bearing is pressure fed by a beefed up oil pump. I've done many tens of thousands of miles on them but I keep my revs down by using the O/D. I travel at 50mph in O/D. That is about the same revs as a standard car would be doing at 40mph. By keeping the revs down to a resonable rate, I have not had a failure and I'm quite happy to leave it that way! The pump is able to maintain 25-6psi to the bearing and I belive it is the extra oil flowing through it that has made it able to last that long.
On some of our long outback trips, one of the guys who uses babbit takes along a rebabbited con rod and middle main bearing cap amongst his spares. I've seen him have to use them.

[M2M]

Originally Posted by Synchro909

I have never rebuilt a motor with babbit. All of my engines run on inserts and the middle main bearing is pressure fed by a beefed up oil pump. I've done many tens of thousands of miles on them but I keep my revs down by using the O/D. I travel at 50mph in O/D. That is about the same revs as a standard car would be doing at 40mph. By keeping the revs down to a resonable rate, I have not had a failure and I'm quite happy to leave it that way! The pump is able to maintain 25-6psi to the bearing and I belive it is the extra oil flowing through it that has made it able to last that long.
On some of our long outback trips, one of the guys who uses babbit takes along a rebabbited con rod and middle main bearing cap amongst his spares. I've seen him have to use them.

Okay, I of course believe you but as with almost all these types of comparisons on this forum what are we actually comparing? Are we comparing your quality insert conversion with a quality babbitt job; or rather, your quality insert conversion with a second or third rate babbitt job?

[FrankWest]

congratulations on a job well done.
There is a book that list all the unapproved ford model A accessories that were issued in 1930's. There are several replacement carburetors listed, including a dual carburetor intake for the zenith carbs. Not sure how effective they will be because of gravity feed fuel system?
But the book is a lot of fun with copes of original ad's for Model A accessories.
Here is the book
Lots of pictures and drawings, fun book for a Ford Model A owner

https://www.abebooks.com/servlet/Boo...-srp1-_-title3

[M2M]

Originally Posted by 1931 flamingo

No reason a quail should "leak". Try a variety of gaskets til it stops leaking. JMO
Paul in CT

First I fitted new gaskets...leaks. By "leaks" I mean it does not seal tightly enough for 50+mph speeds; and I'm NOT talking steam, my car runs cool, I mean water being pumped by the water pump at high rpm. Then I purchased the special O-ring...leaks. An O-ring together with a gasket is too thick; quail will not close. While week after week pass ordering parts and waiting then ordering again I'm running the car on water rather than on anti-freeze. I could have tried putting Right Stuff then the O-ring but I do not want to live in fear of that patch job repair failing and anti-freeze destroying a nice paint job. My reproduction quail is poor quality...that's the problem. Add to all this if someone tries to steal the quail they will probably end up destroying the radiator neck. What the A hobby needs is non-locking caps fitted with moto-meters like Model Ts have. Game over; time to move on. I've fitted a standard cap, no leak at 55+mph.

[wmws]

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On my 28 Tudor I have a standard cap with a motormeter. 160* thermostat. It runs cool and no leaks. I keep the water antifreeze level just below the baffle but above the tubes. I never have to add water.

[M2M]

Originally Posted by wmws

On my 28 Tudor I have a standard cap with a motormeter. 160* thermostat. It runs cool and no leaks. I keep the water antifreeze level just below the baffle but above the tubes. I never have to add water.

If you see such a cap for a 31 let me know!

[M2M]

Originally Posted by FrankWest

congratulations on a job well done.
There is a book that list all the unapproved ford model A accessories that were issued in 1930's. There are several replacement carburetors listed, including a dual carburetor intake for the zenith carbs. Not sure how effective they will be because of gravity feed fuel system?
But the book is a lot of fun with copes of original ad's for Model A accessories.
Here is the book
Lots of pictures and drawings, fun book for a Ford Model A owner

https://www.abebooks.com/servlet/Boo...-srp1-_-title3

Cool book but not for me. I spend enough time thinking about Model As and Ts...such a book would have me constantly dreaming and day dreaming about 4x4 conversion kits and the like!

[wmws]

Do away with the Quail. Get a new cap from the vendors. Drill a hole in it to mount the motometer. A plain cap should not leak. If it does something is wrong with your radiator neck or the tabs on the cap.

[FrankWest]

Originally Posted by M2M

Cool book but not for me. I spend enough time thinking about Model As and Ts...such a book would have me constantly dreaming and day dreaming about 4x4 conversion kits and the like!

It is actually a good idea not anything to your original car but try to make it as original as possible. The only good thing I found doe me in that book was a gold tone rear view mirror clock. Not approved Ford but looks great and is from the same time frame.

[Aretino]

I have similar issues with the quail and motometer radiator caps leaiing. Will likely go back to the standard cap.

[M2M]

Originally Posted by FrankWest

It is actually a good idea not anything to your original car but try to make it as original as possible. The only good thing I found doe me in that book was a gold tone rear view mirror clock. Not approved Ford but looks great and is from the same time frame.

A gold tone rear view mirror clock? MARC judges would put your car in the hot-rod category

[M2M]

Originally Posted by wmws

Do away with the Quail. Get a new cap from the vendors. Drill a hole in it to mount the motometer. A plain cap should not leak. If it does something is wrong with your radiator neck or the tabs on the cap.

The way they are made I don't think you can just drill a hole in the middle for a moto-meter.

[History]

Grind that rivet head off and drill the hole in the separate pieces, shouldn't be much of a problem. There will already be a hole though probably too small in the inner piece with the tabs.

[M2M]

Originally Posted by History

Grind that rivet head off and drill the hole in the separate pieces, shouldn't be much of a problem. There will already be a hole though probably too small in the inner piece with the tabs.

Okay; but there is is a second issue. Top of the cap is domed while the moto-meters have a flat bottom stand.

[History]

I'm guessing after you grind the rivet head off you can make it fit by working with just the cap, a hammer and something placed underneath to flatten it out or shape it as you desire. Unless there is something under the tabs that would prevent this and depending on the price of the cap you are to modify, I'd go for it. You could also use a rubber washer between the top of the cap and the motometer.